How To: H2O Performance (Galletto) Race Radiator & Oil Cooler Install

H2O Performance (Galletto Radiator) WSBK Race Radiator and Oil Cooler installation guide.

I purchased the H20 performance oversized radiator and oil cooler kit and after scouring the internet for information on how to install, I only came across a few photos of the finish product. The manufacturer only provides a handful of outdated pictures, none of which show the water hose connections at the engine or thermostat delete area. So, I’ve decided to do my own installation write up. And although I did the install on my 899 (which seems to be an ancient machine with the now V4 and V2) the radiator will fit the 1199, 959, 1299 models and I believe the V2 as well.

The kit is no longer supplied with the aluminum battery tray and is instead provided with a bracket that relocates the existing plastic battery tray. Not a fan of this and was looking forward to the factory look of that aluminum tray. If anyone knows of a place in Southern California that could fabricate a custom aluminum tray let me know. I’d like to get rid of some of the foam and dead space that comes with the smaller lithium battery.

Additional items not included in the kit that should be purchased separately are:
78811191B – New gasket for the oil extraction flange.
78811201A – New gasket for the engine hose union.
88641981A – New O-rings for the engine temperature sensor.
85250241A – Copper Washers for the breather pipe.

I also replaced the oil hose clamp bolts with TI flanged hex head bolts that were pre-drilled for safety wire:
(2) M6x(1.00mm)x16mm
(2) M6x(1.00mm)x10mm

It’s also a good idea to change out the spark plugs while you have access to the vertical head.

*Note that I already had my charcoal canister, AIS valve, and radiator fan removed prior to doing this install.

STEP 1

• Remove front and side fairings (If you need instructions on how to do this, I suggest stopping here and taking your bike to a professional to do the radiator install ).
• Disconnect and remove the battery and the existing battery tray.
• Disconnect some of the electrical components and remove right/left side electrical system supports. I was able to swing the electrical supports to the side and used a bungie wrapped around the clip-ons to keep them out of the way. You don’t need to disconnect all the electrical connectors; you’ll know which ones once you start to swing the support out of the way.

STEP 2 – Remove Existing Radiator System

• Drain coolant and remove existing radiator, support assembly, and cooling system hoses. You’ll need to cut the hose clamps that are at the cylinder heads as they are a onetime use single ear hose clamp.

STEP 3 – Drain Oil

• Drain engine oil and remove existing heat exchanger unit. *Retain the existing heat exchanger breather pipe as this hose gets reused on the new system

STEP 4 - Installing Cooling System Hoses & Unions to Engine

• Install the new engine hose union with a new gasket (78811201A) and the three (3) existing screws to a torque of 6 Nm (+10%). The new kit comes with four (4) coolant hoses, two (2) 22mm and two (2) 25mm hoses. All these hoses will need to be trimmed to fit.
• Next install the 22mm hoses between the thermostat delete fitting and the cylinder heads. Use the existing hoses as a template for their lengths. These were a PIA to install. Tighten all the new clamps to 3 Nm (+10%) (Max 5 Nm or you’ll risk stripping the clamp).
• Then cut two (2) pieces of 25mm straight hose to a length of about 2.5 inches. These install on the new engine hose union and the thermostat delete fitting. Good luck tightening the hose clamp on the hose engine hose union. In order to get a torque wrench on it I had to access it from the right side of the bike with a few extensions and a universal swivel joint (7mm socket, ¼-inch drive). Tried installing the hose to the union fitting prior to installing it on the engine, but the hose conflicts with the 7mm socket and I couldn’t tighten the screws.
• Reinstall the right-side electrical system support and reconnect the electrical components.

STEP 5 – Mounting the Radiator

• Position the new radiator unit in front of the horizontal cylinder head. To protect the radiator fins from damage I cut out pieces of cardboard from the shipping box and placed them over the backside of the radiator. I also removed the two (2) bolts on the cylinder head cover that were used to mount the old radiator support, and replaced them with regular hex bolts. The old bolts stick out and will be in the way when positioning the radiator, as well as conflict with new head cover.
• Fit the complete radiator unit onto the bottom of the frame with the new mount and tighten the two (2) screws to a torque of 6 Nm (+10%).
• Next install the new rear mount bracket to the bottom of the ABS bracket.

STEP 6 – Install Cooling Hoses & Aluminum Pipes to Radiator

• With the radiator in place, you can go back and finish installing the last two cooling hoses that connect the top and bottom radiator outlets.
• Cut a straight piece of 25mm hose to a length of about 4 inches and fit it onto the top radiator outlet. Then install the longer of the two aluminum pipes between this hose and the one that’s connected to the thermostat delete fitting. Tighten hose clamps to 3 Nm (+10%).
• Fit the remaining aluminum pipe elbow to the hose coming off the engine hose union and determine what length to cut the last 25mm coolant hose (This should be the 90 deg elbow hose). You’ll need to trim both ends. Connect hose to bottom radiator outlet and the aluminum pipe and tighten hose clamps to 3 Nm (+10%).

STEP 7 – Install Battery Bracket

• Mount the new battery bracket to the engine. One bolt is screwed thru the timing chain cover and the other two utilize the existing battery tray holes. Torque to 10 Nm (+10%).
• Install the existing battery tray to the new bracket.
• Reinstall the left-side electrical system support, install the engine temperature sensor with two new O-rings (88641981A) in the new thermostat delete fitting, reconnect the electrical components, and reinstall the battery.

*I shaved off the bottom plastic part of the electrical system supports since I have track fairings that cover this area. That being said I am not sure how the new battery and fuse locations fits under the stock plastic since the battery is now higher up and to the back a few inches. Fit great on my bike with the plastic trimmed away.

STEP 8 – Connect the Oil Cooler Hoses

• Mount the new oil extraction plate with a new gasket (78811191B) and tighten the bolts in a cross pattern, Torque bolts to 13 Nm (+10%). There is a OEM bolt in the engine case that needs to be removed and replaced with the long bolt and spacer that is supplied with the kit. You’ll know which one when you mount the new plate.
• Refit the existing heat exchanger breather hose to the new oil extractor plate with new washers (#85250241A) and to the top of the radiator. Torque bolt to 13 Nm (+10%).
• Install the new oil hoses to the oil extractor plate and the oil cooler and clamp down with the brackets. Torque the bolts to 13 Nm (+10%).

*Inserting the oil hoses into the oil cooler connection was a PIA. I had to heat up the female connection with a heat gun and tighten/press the oil hose in with the bracket. Took a while to get the hose flange to sit flush but eventually it went. Instead of using the supplied bolts, I purchased some pre-drilled bolts and tie wired them as an added security.

STEP 9 – Mount the Catch Can

• Mount the catch can to the radiator and route the overflow hoses. Torque bolts to 6 Nm (+10%).

STEP 10 – Mount the Air Conveyor

• Mount the air conveyor/air duct to the radiator. Torque bolts to 6 Nm (+10%).

*The air conveyor fit like sh*t on my 899. The left side lined up alright and I didn’t run into any issues installing the fairing, but the right side had to be trimmed about 1/4-1/2 inch to fit the fairing. And I’m still not too pleased with it’s fitment. I have Armor Bodies track fairings, so I can’t speak for how or if the stock fairings will fit.

STEP 11 – Reassemble Bike

• Add engine oil and coolant. There are drain bolt/holes at the bottom of the oil cooler and top of the water radiator to assist in purging any air from the systems
• Refit fairings.
• Start-up and check for any leaks. I let the bike go thru a two or three heat cycles before taking it for a test ride.

Nice work and great post. Need more stuff like this on the forum. I am considering that purchase myself. Does that cut out in the new radiator allow access to the horizontal spark plug?

Nice write up.

Streetz said:

Nice work and great post. Need more stuff like this on the forum. I am considering that purchase myself. Does that cut out in the new radiator allow access to the horizontal spark plug?

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No, doesn't give access to the plug. It lets the radiator sit far enough back to provide the proper clearance to the wheel when the suspension is fully compressed.

Nice! I really like the H2O set up. The bike runs definitely cooler with it.

The fiberglass V fairing that's included does not fit well and is heavy. The head cover does not work at all. I make the carbon fiber replacement parts which do fit correctly. Also the carbon fiber battery tray as well.

@Gpattonrer thanks for the detailed description; I mounted the same my own as well, but not really understand how to:
1/ make the coolant/water level and purging air;
2/ how to drain coolant/water from H2O radiator

Thanks!