Idle gear (plastic) and primary sprocket failure – 2017 1299 Pani

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Done!

Went for a short ride to get it to full temps. Dumped the oil when I got home and it was very clean. Feeling pretty good about the repair!

This is sorta like the belt drives needing to have the belts changed every 12K. So instead of that change the pump gears every 15K? The failure is partially heat related so if the bike never gets too hot they'll last a bit longer. I suspect you have been using the motor as intended (flogging it mercilessly). So one of those, next change will take half the time.
 
I am planning to replace the plastic drive gears before they fail with a set of metal gears I bought, see below. Has anyone had any issues with a water pump bearing failure with metal gears fitted?

To give the engine the best chance I plan to replace the water pump at the same time so if anyone has the part number for a Panigale 1299S 2015 I’d be grateful. Thanks.
IMG_3246.png
 
Well--reading this thread has raised my concern level a bit. I've got a 2012 1199S--about 9,xxx miles. Considering replacing the plastic gears with above-mentioned metal ones. Can anybody here that has ordered these for US delivery share part #/vendor info? Thinking I may dig into the bike this winter and get it done--
SirJAG-James---did you go with metal or OEM plastic gears for your rebuild? You've since moved on to a V4 since this thread was created, right? LOL!
Many thanks,
Greg Giacona
 
Well--reading this thread has raised my concern level a bit. I've got a 2012 1199S--about 9,xxx miles. Considering replacing the plastic gears with above-mentioned metal ones. Can anybody here that has ordered these for US delivery share part #/vendor info? Thinking I may dig into the bike this winter and get it done--
SirJAG-James---did you go with metal or OEM plastic gears for your rebuild? You've since moved on to a V4 since this thread was created, right? LOL!
Many thanks,
Greg Giacona
yes i used replacement plastic gears! You wont know its an issue until it fails either...kinda ......, but the repair wasnt too bad if done yourself! otherwise its thousands at dealership!

Good luck Greg, lemme know if you need anything!

Jag
 
Reading these and other posts on the nylon WP gear and idler I started getting VERY paranoid. My 2013 1199 has almost 28,000 miles on it. Never a problem but MAN I don't want one either. Just ordered the Steel Kamna set from Germany. Cost me $217 USD to my door. I'm not going to even start the engine until I get those gears replaced.
 
For all of you who are doing this, I commend you, you are doing yourself a favor anyway you look at it...
Since I did this on my track 1199R (no longer have), I will highly suggest to replace seals which are mounted on the cover, I think one is actual seal and other is O ring. Particulary important on bikes with some age and miles (most of them now).Please look into drawings to identify parts needed.
 
There's the large o-ring on the 5-bolt clutch cover and a smaller o-ring on the filler cap. The rest is high-temp RTV. Mine has a clear clutch cover, and I have the o-ring perma-mated to the housing with weather strip adhesive. there are also a couple of crush washers for the oil pressure sending unit hose. Also a small o-ring in the back of the cover. Link provided for exploded diagram. Go to pages 22-23

Diagram
 
There's the large o-ring on the 5-bolt clutch cover and a smaller o-ring on the filler cap. The rest is high-temp RTV. Mine has a clear clutch cover, and I have the o-ring perma-mated to the housing with weather strip adhesive. there are also a couple of crush washers for the oil pressure sending unit hose. Also a small o-ring in the back of the cover. Link provided for exploded diagram. Go to pages 22-23

Diagram
Seal #10, also if you are removing oil cooler, don't forget those O rings.
Also I want to add, while this is done, remove oil pan and clean strainer. Mine had crap ton of junk. This part is very important to prevent oil starvation due to blocked pickup filter!!!
 
I did the pan drop about 5,000 miles ago. It was clean of any sludge and the pickup screen had a total of three tiny metal particles in it plus a couple of 1/2" strings of silicon sealer from the factory build. At 22,500 miles. I use Motul 7100T 20w50 in the engine. The inside has zero sludge or carbon staining. The plug always comes out with just a tiny bit of fir on it. That's probably all clutch material.
 
I did the pan drop about 5,000 miles ago. It was clean of any sludge and the pickup screen had a total of three tiny metal particles in it plus a couple of 1/2" strings of silicon sealer from the factory build. At 22,500 miles. I use Motul 7100T 20w50 in the engine. The inside has zero sludge or carbon staining. The plug always comes out with just a tiny bit of fir on it. That's probably all clutch material.
I am not talking about sludge, I am talking about stuff that was left inside the motor, silikone shards, famous Ducati baby teeth, some kind of fiber looking stuff like filter media, water pump gear parts...
Keep in mind my bike when I sold it had 2200 miles!
I posted picture of that sfuff few years ago in the thread about plastic gear failure, go search and you will see what I am talking about.
 
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Here, I did you a favor...you welcome
 

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