Karl Brake MC

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tyres, training, dietary advise......:eek::cool:

Meh, I have tires, get ongoing training, and am at 10% body fat.

What I need doesn’t cost money, not directly anyway, which is time. Seat Time. And it’s not money preventing me from getting more seat time.
 
im thinking talent is way beyond the stretch of ll our imaginations...... and wallets.
 
Accossato CNC billet MC is only $500, bet identical performance.
Bob eaily makes 47s at Jerez on Honda with it
 
Accossato CNC billet MC is only $500, bet identical performance.
Bob eaily makes 47s at Jerez on Honda with it

Has anyone run the OEM MC direct to calipers? If you haven’t tested that before going to a $2k MC, that’s just a waste of time and money. Granted, the OEM MC using ABS is just fine for the track
 
I think it’s cool - they’re one of the few actual MotoGP parts we can routinely obtain and run on our bikes. We get a little taste of MotoGP level hardware. 👍
 
Accossato CNC billet MC is only $500, bet identical performance.
Bob eaily makes 47s at Jerez on Honda with it

It’s astonishing how a single post can be so ‘likely’ accurate, and stupid at the same time…

Like someone at our level of riding is buying a $2000 brake MC to improve performance 😂😂😂

Or based on whether some chap “turned 47’s” at Jerez with a stock bike 😂😂😂

As a side note, the only thing I can tell you about the $2000 Brake MC, versus the $400 RCS Corsa Corta, versus the OEM MC….is that the OEM is so spongy and has so little feel that I find it nearly unridable at track. The RCS Corsa Corta is great largely relying solely on its broad range of adjustability, so you can dial in the feel more to your specific liking. The $2000 MC doesn’t have the adjustability of the RCS Corsa Corta, but it has more feel, and it triggered my front ABS on my bike for the 1st time I ever triggered it. The lever moves further than how I had the RCS MC setup, but where the RCS reaches maximum stopping power at a certain point in the lever pull, this one seems to keep applying more power the harder you squeeze it.
 
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What?

This is all about feel, what you want is squeeze the brake and bike slows in a linear and proportional manner in the conditions you ride in, and that is all about MC piston size and its ratio to the caliper piston size, lever selection and rider strength. The main factor is ratio, same power but less or more lever pressure since it's pretty easy to lock a wheel at any speed with any MC ratio. I doubt that anything beyond a well machined MC will provide much improvement given the same ratio's
 
just to recap, I just mentioned that the billet masters are head above oem which generally aren't too much. If you want a 17 that means the crazy one unfortunately. Can fast guys go really fast on OEM master - sure. I have a fair amount of nice kit on my bike, but I incessantly mention how much it all cost or the total cost of my bike.
 
$2000 master cylinders? Sure, sure, it will make difference

I can't understand this. It is simply piston area vs piston area, pivot length and the shape of the lever. The most useful thing you get for $500 or $2000 is fine pitched span adjustment and a nicer lever (I like the RCS levers). If the stock master cylinder feels mushy to you it's either not bled right or you don't like the mechanical ratio's involved. The non-oem are lighter but nothing in their design makes them less spongey relative to the hydraulics. Your RCS worked for you. If the span adjuster on the new one is hosed maybe you can send it back. Take that $2000 and have your wife sent flowers every week for a year if you need a way to spend that. Way, way, way more benefit.
 
I can't understand this. It is simply piston area vs piston area, pivot length and the shape of the lever. The most useful thing you get for $500 or $2000 is fine pitched span adjustment and a nicer lever (I like the RCS levers). If the stock master cylinder feels mushy to you it's either not bled right or you don't like the mechanical ratio's involved. The non-oem are lighter but nothing in their design makes them less spongey relative to the hydraulics. Your RCS worked for you. If the span adjuster on the new one is hosed maybe you can send it back. Take that $2000 and have your wife sent flowers every week for a year if you need a way to spend that. Way, way, way more benefit.

Yeah the OEM is a 16mm piston, and in my experience doesn’t mate well with the 30mm piston Calipers. It also has a much longer pull ratio, combined it makes it feel spongy to me, but not in the way air in the brake lines does, it’s just too much lever travel and too much of a dead space on initial pull, so it feels like it needs much more rider input to get stopped than other options. I like to one or two finger the brakes, with close to zero dead spot on initial lever pull, and a short pull ratio altogether to reach maximum braking. The 17 RCS Corsa Corta worked great for me because I could adjust it to zero dead space on initial pull, and affectively run a 17mm piston with a 20 pull ratio. The $2000 deal is a 17mm with an 18 ratio. A bit less of a ratio than I’m use to, but as I play with it, it does feel like the machining makes a noticeable difference, as the whole pull of the lever has a much more linear feel than the RCS Corsa Corta, so presumably as I use it more a bit more finesse is possible with it.

The real question is, at my riding level is it a big enough improvement to justify the $1800 price gap lol….if I had a budget to work within absolutely NOT. But over time as I continually improve I suspect I’ll appreciate the EVO GP billet radial MC more and more.

I’m not sorry I bought it so far.
 
Biggest braking benefits are going to be pads and then brake fluid, not MC.

Spoke w Brembo and they said don’t use the low viscosity brake fluid. Won’t cope with track temps. They recommended Brembo LCF 600 plus.

Fwiw, I’m going to try some Endless RF-650 fluid. Endless fluid is used by F1 teams and allegedly has very low compressibility and isn’t as hygroscopic as Motul.
 
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