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Light weight forged wheels
- Thread starter RODOLFO
- Start date
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front with t-drive disks.
I have a friend listed his Oz GASS couple of weeks back, write to me if interested and I’ll put you in touch
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I have used CF for decades. Million tire changes when racing. They take a beating . Just expensive. Front wheel with T-Drives you get the same weight as the forged wheel with stock rotors. Wheels and T-Drives are a nice performance touch. OZ are a great wheel
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SCAMMER ALERT
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If OP is under the impression his bike is rolling on steel wheels, I don't think the weight difference between aluminum/magnesium/carbon is going to matter that much to his lap times or PRs through the canyon. I'm betting that what is most important is going to be appearance and bragging rights.
My experience with carbon rims has been limited but the rim lip has failed on me twice with BSTs. Also, the eye rolls and sighs that trackside tire providers and bike shops give out when they see what they have agreed to take on is a bit off putting. Some tire servicers will charge a few bucks more for carbon rims.
Find a nice set of aesthetically pleasing aluminum rims, have them fitted with whatever rubber you prefer and enjoy your bike.
TK rotors are fantastic and look the part as well.
https://hhrperformance.com/i-316374...ale-v4-v4s-v4r-1299.html?ref=category:1389350
My experience with carbon rims has been limited but the rim lip has failed on me twice with BSTs. Also, the eye rolls and sighs that trackside tire providers and bike shops give out when they see what they have agreed to take on is a bit off putting. Some tire servicers will charge a few bucks more for carbon rims.
Find a nice set of aesthetically pleasing aluminum rims, have them fitted with whatever rubber you prefer and enjoy your bike.
TK rotors are fantastic and look the part as well.
https://hhrperformance.com/i-316374...ale-v4-v4s-v4r-1299.html?ref=category:1389350
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uh...its CAST or FORGED aluminum....
STEEL....good lord.
That being said, when i upgraded to FORGED it was a 7lbs total reduction in rotating mass on my 1299...at the time i didn't think that was a big deal...boy was i wrong...it changed the feel and track and street temperament of the bike completely.
one of the best upgrades ive done. I'd rank it as #2 upgrade behind a custom tune, then suspension upgrades forks, then shocks...
Jag
STEEL....good lord.
That being said, when i upgraded to FORGED it was a 7lbs total reduction in rotating mass on my 1299...at the time i didn't think that was a big deal...boy was i wrong...it changed the feel and track and street temperament of the bike completely.
one of the best upgrades ive done. I'd rank it as #2 upgrade behind a custom tune, then suspension upgrades forks, then shocks...
Jag
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What's the weight loss from the 330 mm T'drives? I've run the 320's and really liked them. Hard to warp just a tad noisy.
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There's a weight loss with T-drives? I thought it was a heat thing.
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Well sh*t. They've been in my shopping cart at WRS for a few weeks. They almost had me.
ETA: Brembo's site says they're lighter and have better torque management.
I thought 4.5mm was the minimum thickness for the OEM rotors?
ETA: Brembo's site says they're lighter and have better torque management.
I thought 4.5mm was the minimum thickness for the OEM rotors?
The bike is with Ducati at the moment but it is a stock 2023 V4R. So if it is forged alli then fair enough. The Thyssennkrupp are doing it for me at the moment but that changes like the wind!!
I just need to see if I can get a deal on them somehow here in the UK.
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I went with the thyssenn's .beautiful wheel, maybe the best, since they are the only woven one's.They do factory BMW, Porche wheels
I will back peddle on the thickness of OEM rotors vs Brembo's T Drives. Both are 6mm thick. The T Drives have 2 more buttons on the carrier, little more rotor material. I did not weigh the rotors, just the wheels and rotors.
I remember that the front wheels OEM, stock rotor vs Thyssennkrupp Brembo T rotors, weigh the same. Rear wheel OEM vs Carbon couple pounds less. So I assume the T's are heavier. Look awesome! Unless your name is Toprak, you probably not see any difference in your lap time.
I will back peddle on the thickness of OEM rotors vs Brembo's T Drives. Both are 6mm thick. The T Drives have 2 more buttons on the carrier, little more rotor material. I did not weigh the rotors, just the wheels and rotors.
I remember that the front wheels OEM, stock rotor vs Thyssennkrupp Brembo T rotors, weigh the same. Rear wheel OEM vs Carbon couple pounds less. So I assume the T's are heavier. Look awesome! Unless your name is Toprak, you probably not see any difference in your lap time.
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Thisˆˆ there's absolutely no doubt that lightweight wheels offer the best bang for buck in terms of performance if you are running a set of clunkers, but that advantage is significantly diminished when you upgrade from forged aluminium Marchesini's.
If your riding involves a lot of short sharp direction changes and you really like flicking the bike around then carbon is absolutely worth it, however heavier wheels provide a feeling of stability especially in long sweepers. So from a purely practical point of view, if all you're doing is sports touring there's no need to upgrade because you are not going to feel the benefit. But as mentioned, if you like the carbon aesthetic and you've got some money then go for it. For me personally, I would only get some more carbon wheels if there was a great deal going otherwise meh...
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Fos sure, luxury item. I find in high speed direction changes the bike feels a bit lighter. When I raced, SB and S stock, I switched between CF wheels to Cast and I made the same lap times. Always nice to have two sets of rims for track days, race weekends.
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Light weight is also better for acceleration and breaking as less mass to accelerate etc. you can overcome the acceleration issues with power but for breaking lowering the rotating mass helps.
Also the weight distribution is important, weight in the hub is less of an issues than weight on the outside. So keeping disk weight down is helpfull
That being said I am amazed at the weight difference in tires, one of the benefits of sports tires is light weight.
But for the road sometimes a bit of weight is a good thing.for the track the light er the better.
Also the weight distribution is important, weight in the hub is less of an issues than weight on the outside. So keeping disk weight down is helpfull
That being said I am amazed at the weight difference in tires, one of the benefits of sports tires is light weight.
But for the road sometimes a bit of weight is a good thing.for the track the light er the better.
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One thing that gets lost in the lighter wheels conversation is that the weight difference alone isn't necessarily the biggest benefit- less unsprung weight is always good, yes, but that strictly influences the suspension component. A lot of riders complain about ride quality suffering, or the bike being less settled in corners with ultra-light wheels, and that's typically because no damping changes were made to compensate for the lower mass at the far end of the damper. Keeping damping settings high but lowering the mass it is controlling makes things a lot harsher.
Lightweight wheels are awesome- they look great, and absolutely do have some effect on the handling through different gyroscopic influence which is measurable (in a laboratory anyhow). The important aspect to compare is MOI (moment of inertia); that's the amount of force needed for vector changes, either acceleration, braking, or direction, and not just wheel material but construction dictate those numbers. The best manufacturers publish this info.
Take BSTs, for example: the Rapid Tek split-spoke carbon wheels that come on the SPs weigh slightly less overall than the Mamba Tek 7 spoke. Again, lighter is great, however that just dictates your suspension settings. Dig deeper and you find that the MOI on the "heavier" 7 spokes is lower than the "lighter" split spokes, which boils down to where all the material is. The Mambas concentrate on the hubs, with thin hollow spokes and a thinner rim structure, while the Rapids have to make up some material at the rim for the type of spoke in that design. So it takes less energy to get the Mambas spinning, stopped, or turned.
This would apply to all material types as well- I would venture that MOI on some forged magnesium is better than many carbon... then it just becomes a question of price and application. As mentioned, the well engineered forged aluminum don't give much up to the lightest carbon, but the rotors are pretty heavy in comparison so there's a decent amount of gain to be made there. I love the no-nonsense option of forged for the track but a lot of much faster riders are on cast and I can attest if it is slowing them down you wouldn't know it.
Lightweight wheels are awesome- they look great, and absolutely do have some effect on the handling through different gyroscopic influence which is measurable (in a laboratory anyhow). The important aspect to compare is MOI (moment of inertia); that's the amount of force needed for vector changes, either acceleration, braking, or direction, and not just wheel material but construction dictate those numbers. The best manufacturers publish this info.
Take BSTs, for example: the Rapid Tek split-spoke carbon wheels that come on the SPs weigh slightly less overall than the Mamba Tek 7 spoke. Again, lighter is great, however that just dictates your suspension settings. Dig deeper and you find that the MOI on the "heavier" 7 spokes is lower than the "lighter" split spokes, which boils down to where all the material is. The Mambas concentrate on the hubs, with thin hollow spokes and a thinner rim structure, while the Rapids have to make up some material at the rim for the type of spoke in that design. So it takes less energy to get the Mambas spinning, stopped, or turned.
This would apply to all material types as well- I would venture that MOI on some forged magnesium is better than many carbon... then it just becomes a question of price and application. As mentioned, the well engineered forged aluminum don't give much up to the lightest carbon, but the rotors are pretty heavy in comparison so there's a decent amount of gain to be made there. I love the no-nonsense option of forged for the track but a lot of much faster riders are on cast and I can attest if it is slowing them down you wouldn't know it.
Great bit of advice!! Thanks for sharing. So, I’m still stuck between Thyssennkrupp CF and Marchesini Magnesium M10RS’s in gold. I’ve asked for the best price and as soon as they respond I’ll weigh it up and let you know. Appreciate the help tho mate!
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