Measuring chain tension

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May 9, 2012
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Where exactly do you make the 50-52mm measurement (Fig. 170 Owner ´s Manual) ??? You are supposed to take the measurement mid distance between the centers of the front and rear sprockets. Problem is that the center of the front sprocket is not visible.

Thanks !!!
 
You can just eye it. my chain is tighter than what the manual says b/c the chain will drag the muffler. I checked my tension and it was tight right after the service and the tech said it needed to be tighter
BTW There is a picture on the swingarm showing where to measure from
 
Last edited:
Thanks MUNDMAN.

The picture in the swingarm has the same drawing as the figure in the Owner ´s Manual, they both refer to the mid distance between sprocket centers. The thing is if you are looking for a 50 to 52mm measurement, "eyeing" the center of the front sprocket can lead to a much bigger error than the 2mm tolerance.

I guess a seat of the pants approach is the thing to do ...
 
I use the rag trick. I roll the rag in sprocket, tighten nut, then take rag out. No need to use a tape measure.
 
For some reason the chain tension on the 1199 is much less than on most of the other ducs I've had which range around 32mm
 
You can just eye it. my chain is tighter than what the manual says b/c the chain will drag the muffler. I checked my tension and it was tight right after the service and the tech said it needed to be tighter
BTW There is a picture on the swingarm showing where to measure from

+1 for tighter chain. I keep my chain tighter because it gives you a softer pull when accelerating and not the hard bite or jerk when it picks up the chain slack.
 
Have you guys checked the tension with your weight on the bike. The Pani slack as measured on side stand will appear "too loose" to your eye, but it is not. It must allow for the longer swingarm and the sprocket to pivot angle. The chain slack tightens up as the rear suspension compresses, so beware the loads you're putting on the chain, sprocket, and bearings by running it too tight...

I've seen owners tighten them up after a proper service and when they're riding the bike, the chain is bow-string tight. Beware unknowing service techs as well....
 
Have you guys checked the tension with your weight on the bike. The Pani slack as measured on side stand will appear "too loose" to your eye, but it is not. It must allow for the longer swingarm and the sprocket to pivot angle. The chain slack tightens up as the rear suspension compresses, so beware the loads you're putting on the chain, sprocket, and bearings by running it too tight...

I've seen owners tighten them up after a proper service and when they're riding the bike, the chain is bow-string tight. Beware unknowing service techs as well....

nothing like wrecking a transmission output shaft/bearings because the chain tension was way to tight, at the least you'll wear out the chain and sprockets way early.
 
If chain is too tight it will not only damage your gear box, but also will not allow the era suspension to function properly.
 
Can you be more specific about the "rag trick" procedure ???

Thanks !!!

I did it alot when racing years ago. Basically if bike is on stand without rider weight, loosen axel and roll back the the sprocket with a rag (not folded) so chain is tight (no slack), tighten the axel nut and roll wheel so rag comes out. Its perfect everytime. Years ago a friend that worked for dutchman yamaha (showing my age) showed me. Works for me, give it a try, let me know.
 

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