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I believe used in wsb and moto gp. It is ridiculously light.
I believe used in wsb and moto gp. It is ridiculously light.
I use these exclusively. Probably the best aluminum sprocket there is. Regardless, guys listen up. These are race parts. They are pulled and inspected and probably tossed after ever race on bikes making 200+hp. These are not "set and forget". The very nature of the Ducati drive destroys aluminum rear sprockets. The flange has a precision fit against the spacer that butts aginst the rear bearing. This assembly sandwiches the sprocket between the flange and the washer. The very nature of the cush drive causes the sprocket to slightly rotate clockwise and counterclockwise as it is loaded and unloaded. This will cause the steel spacer to wear a groove in the back of the sprocket in this case or the carrier if your using a two piece design (CNC, NCR etc). This is not a problem on the stock assembly as the sprocket is steel. You can significantly reduce this by polishing the spacer with 600g on the sprocket side and using an anti seize lubricant there. This would not be a problem if the wear occured between the spacer and the bearing race as the spacer is cheap but the friction dynamics seems to favor the sprocket side. I buy these off ebay for $125.00. I just finished machining the back of a Sitta 41T 520 to use a needle bearing thrust washer. This should eliminate the issue all together. I must add that there are circumstances that will make this more or less pronounced. I use the CNC Ti flange so the sprocket really has no choice but to be the sacrificial "weak link". Not sure what happens with the alloy flanges. Regardless this does not change the fact that you need to watch these things for wear and apply a bit more vigilance.
Yep and thats what a good portion of the packaging says on a lot of parts guys throw on their cars and bikes. Nothing wrong with it as long as you can support it. I was exposed to this very early on racing bicycles. Everyone wanted all the light weight stuff because thats what the guys in the magazines had. They just didn't know that the guys in the magazines threw out stuff after 200 miles.
I cant speak for all of the brands and nuances associated with different set ups only my own experiences working on different set ups. The stock setup is 530 with an integrated steel carrier and sprocket. All of the engineering data related to longevity and service intervals were based on this system. You start changing pieces in an engineered system and you should probably take the potential variables into consideration. My original post said "aluminum" sprocket. While there are for sure different alloy compositions, the fact that this material is going to wear differently than steel and is less tolerable of abrasive contamination should be considered.This seems at least on the setups that i have worked with (CNC, Ducati Corse, AEM, NCR, Sitta) to vary depending on how you mix and match components. They make a simple tooth gauge in 530,520 etc. When the sprocket is out of spec, I toss it. If there is any play in the carrier, it get tossed as that is a pre load fit. If i replace the carrier or in my case the sprocket as it is integrated, I always use a new spacer. Pretty simple.Other than a "bling" factor, I see no use in a separate carrier and sprocket for this setup. It is far quicker to just pull the flange nut and swap the sprocket than to change out six bolts. I have never seen a SBK team use anything but the integrated setup and I have never seen a separate alloy carrier that was not worn on the back side so its actually less expensive to go with the integrated set up. I have never used the hybrid design. It does solve the sprocket wear issue but I would like to see the back side of the flange after 1000 miles.
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Ill be using the same flange and cush drives as you,but I will be using CNC carrier and sprocket.
Ill keep a close eye on it.
I plan on using stock carrier as well. I see no need for added bolts and "bling". I only bought this sprocket set up because it was in stock form, except 520. I have raced on 520, and used them all my life (ppl saying it will break is just wrong). I could not find a stock steel 520 except for the oem SL, which is upwards of $350 for rear and $130 for front and thats a rip off!!
Endodoc, do you have pics of the wear. I don't check my bike every ride for dirt and burn marks or even if my pipe is still blue, I check tire pressure and chain tens and fluids ( the important stuff). I remember my 999R I stretched the chain out in the first 600 miles, it was so sloppy. I would say a stock chain is far more worrisome than this set up. Thanks for the info, I will definitely keep an eye on it.
Endodoc, do you have pics of the wear. I don't check my bike every ride for dirt and burn marks or even if my pipe is still blue, I check tire pressure and chain tens and fluids ( the important stuff). I remember my 999R I stretched the chain out in the first 600 miles, it was so sloppy. I would say a stock chain is far more worrisome than this set up. Thanks for the info, I will definitely keep an eye on it.
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Here is a crappy pic. It is of the back side of the carrier or in this case, sprocket/carrier. This is a groove worn by the steel spacer washer that butts against the hub bearing. When the flange it torqued in place, the very nature of the slight flex in the cush drive (clockwise/counterclockwise) causes the steel to wear on the softer carrier material. over time, this will happen and you will get play in the drive assembly. Again this condition is going to depend on the mix and match of parts you have as the different flanges and carriers al fit with some variability. Some combinations are not usable as they load too much preload on the hub bearing.
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I appreciate all the info as I contemplate changing out my parts. How long did it take for that to happen. I mean the groove?
Hmmm good question. A decent guess on this sprocket would be 2000 miles. This bike is a tech mule to design and test things that we might make so it gets looked at quite a bit and I change parts on it all the time.Additionally, this motor is moded. Crank, rods, valves, pistons are different and it puts down a bit more power. I have flanges from CNC (Ti and Aluminum), AEM, NCR, DC, Ducabike. Carriers from AEM, CNC, AFAM and sprockets from CNC, AEM AFAM, Sitta. All of this stuff is probably designed to work with their respective mates from the same mfg. For instance the CNC flange and the AEM carrier do not have the same "crush" measurement as the CNC flange and the Sitta. The CNC flange/AEM carrier have too much preload on the bearing because of the fit. I originally went with AEM because CNC did not have a 41T 520 sprocket. bla bla. Bottom line is to look at the stuff once in a while and understand the dynamics of the mods that are made and how they interplay with sub systems.
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