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My solution: drop $0.20 in a jar for every mile I ride (or in your case $0.40/mile). By the time I need new tires the cash is already there and I don't think twice about parting with it.
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As I've said before I must realllllly ride like a pus*^
I got 7300 out of a front.
Additionally- checkout ROCKYMOUNTAIN ATV/MC.
THey have absolutely the BEST price on the Q3's for the 1199.
$193 SHIPPED after Dunlop rebate for both tires. Anybody paying $500 for OEM pirellis is smoking crack.
I got 7300 out of a front.
Additionally- checkout ROCKYMOUNTAIN ATV/MC.
THey have absolutely the BEST price on the Q3's for the 1199.
$193 SHIPPED after Dunlop rebate for both tires. Anybody paying $500 for OEM pirellis is smoking crack.
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You are riding the bike as it was meant to be ridden.
1,700 miles is all I get on the front, a bit more on the rear due to traction control doing its job.
Depends
Depends how you ride it, no? I'm at 8K miles, still on my first set. Why are we scaring would be owners by telling them they will be in the hole for tires at 1700 miles? For a street driven bike, you would have to drive it like you stole it to need replacement at 1700 miles, and risk life and limb far above and beyond the already existing risks.
Further, if your traction control is eating your tires like that you probably need to improve your driving style and skill. Do you ride your brakes in your car while you are accelerating?? If your bike is track-only, that may explain some things, in which case you are probably one of the superstar bike riders on this forum.
Depends how you ride it, no? I'm at 8K miles, still on my first set. Why are we scaring would be owners by telling them they will be in the hole for tires at 1700 miles? For a street driven bike, you would have to drive it like you stole it to need replacement at 1700 miles, and risk life and limb far above and beyond the already existing risks.
Further, if your traction control is eating your tires like that you probably need to improve your driving style and skill. Do you ride your brakes in your car while you are accelerating?? If your bike is track-only, that may explain some things, in which case you are probably one of the superstar bike riders on this forum.
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I just replaced my front at 3000 miles. The sides of the tread wore past the wear bars, the center was still good.
My rear tire may make it to 4000 miles as I have 3300 on it now. I am getting close to the wear bars on the sides.
My rear tire may make it to 4000 miles as I have 3300 on it now. I am getting close to the wear bars on the sides.
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Not necessarily.
Tire life will vary greatly depending on what tire pressures you normally run. Even a couple of lbs of pressure can make significant difference in tire life.I ran my first set at 34f/36r and got 3800 out of the rear (and it still had life when a nail binned it) and 5k out of the front (nothing left on it).
Q3's I'm running at 32f/34r and have 7k miles on front (still plenty of tread life left) and 3500 on rear (should easily see 5k before it gets binned.).
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5k on the originals.
just changed to Q3s.
have oems tires stacked in the corner ready to go next time.
100% street.
just changed to Q3s.
have oems tires stacked in the corner ready to go next time.
100% street.
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On my 2nd set of OEMs here. Running 30/30psi all the time. If I get 2500mi I'll be happy. I love the grip and feedback so much that I just don't care about replacing them 2x as often as other tires. Esp. when there are deals to be had online.
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Depends how you ride it, no? I'm at 8K miles, still on my first set. Why are we scaring would be owners by telling them they will be in the hole for tires at 1700 miles? For a street driven bike, you would have to drive it like you stole it to need replacement at 1700 miles, and risk life and limb far above and beyond the already existing risks.
Further, if your traction control is eating your tires like that you probably need to improve your driving style and skill. Do you ride your brakes in your car while you are accelerating?? If your bike is track-only, that may explain some things, in which case you are probably one of the superstar bike riders on this forum.[/QUOTE
I only ride mountain roads and stay away from any city traffic.
The traction control is actually adding life to my rear tire.
This is my first bike that eats the front faster than the rear.
Not scaring anyone, just stating my personal experience
I realize bike eats tires but wanted to make the counterpoint that it really is dependent on driving style. I may have mistaken traction control to make use of brakes, perhaps it doesn't on this vehicle, but if it does, would eat up brake pads too. I simply commute long distances part canyon part highway with my bike and I believe that I will get 10K out of the set. In fear of offsetting the traction control, I am planning on replacing with original tires, although I wish that I can get 15K miles on the tires.
My friend has around 15k on his 1199S and is on his third set of tires. I made it 6,200 miles on my 899 before the center of the rear started showing cords (in just a foot long section). Sides were pretty decent. Guess that comes with the territory of not having curvy roads close and having to ride an hour on the highway to reach them :/
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2000 rear/4000 front
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- Joined
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I'm all mountain backroads too. Zero commuting or city riding. I find TC to be helpful in terms of letting me know when my rear is starting to degrade.Depends how you ride it, no? I'm at 8K miles, still on my first set. Why are we scaring would be owners by telling them they will be in the hole for tires at 1700 miles? For a street driven bike, you would have to drive it like you stole it to need replacement at 1700 miles, and risk life and limb far above and beyond the already existing risks.
Further, if your traction control is eating your tires like that you probably need to improve your driving style and skill. Do you ride your brakes in your car while you are accelerating?? If your bike is track-only, that may explain some things, in which case you are probably one of the superstar bike riders on this forum.[/QUOTE
I only ride mountain roads and stay away from any city traffic.
The traction control is actually adding life to my rear tire.
This is my first bike that eats the front faster than the rear.
Not scaring anyone, just stating my personal experience
I do most of my riding in Sport with EBC 3 and DTC 8. Yeah, DTC 8. Even with that setting in Sport DTC hardly ever engages. I get on it HARD out of the corners, just smooth too. The cool thing is you can see DTC kicking in more and more as the tires approach 2000-2500mi.
If I see DTC kicking in on every corner exit I'll dial it down to 6, then 5. If it's kicking in constantly at that setting then the rear is cooked more than I'm comfortable with riding in the twisties at the pace I ride.
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