- Joined
- Jun 28, 2013
- Messages
- 12
- Location
- washington state
well i have searched this site and i didnt see it posted up so here we go.
first i will say if you have ANY mechanical skill set it is EZ...as always just have to be careful as the oil spill on exhaust is the critical issue, so warming bike is really not a good idea on these. DO THIS COLD.
1)center stand bike. COLD
2)remove lower side fairing ONLY, dont forget the nylon washers.... Note: 4 bolts across top of it, 1 back by shifter, 2 underneath AND there is a cowling inner bolt near front wheel holding the top part of leading edge in DONT BREAK THIS front tab OFF!
3)Place drain pan and remove plug. Dont forget to make sure you get crush washer out (replace with new). Torque 13Nm
now the fun part...
4)i used aluminum foil and made a damn under the filter cap with paper towels under. The object is to prevent ANY oil from getting on mufflers area. **FIRE HAZARD**
there will be significant oil spilling out from the cap so be warned to not low ball this step...
5)remove the 2 bolts holding cap. it has a top /bottom so pay attention (the cast image inside cap should be right side up). Take a pair of flat tip screw drivers and small blocks of wood to pry the cap loose. There are flats in the lower parts of the cap at about the 5'oclock and 8'0clock positions as you face cap to work with. Dont get too agressive and keep it square. Once you break the seal loose you should be able to use fingers to wiggle it off. NOTE OIL WILL COME OUT....pay close attention to mufflers and flow path...
6)the filter is a press onto a post in the cavity. The part you can see has a rubber center which flaps that you can get a pair of needle nose to grip an inner edge. DONT PRY FROM OUTER EDGE OR SCRAPE THIS CAP SEALING SURFACE OR U R SCREWED!!!!! The new filter is installed in reverse order, you will feel it seat on the post. You can inspect or just replace the cap o-rings (there are 2) be careful of cap orientation and dont cut o-rings as you replace cap in groove, light boy butter works well on o-rings (white lith grease). bolts torque to 13Nm.
7)wipe up all the areas and inspect for oil splash on mufflers, if you did this right, you should have nothing to wipe up.. if there is residue, clean it completely with a cleaner and ensure dry b4 lighting candles...
8)replace oil, inspecting for leaks. should hold about 3 1/2 quarts. fill to upper end of bulls eye. start to circ oil for a few seconds, you will hear flow in motor as its mechanical noise will change (quieter) once circulating. I only run for about 10 seconds the first time then check bulls eye level. I did have to add some after this first step to regain visible level to bulls eye...
9)Light candles and look for leaks.
10) once happy no leaks, replace lower fairing piece. NOTE it has a slot in back to upper half and kind of goes up and in on front cowling (damn thing is a jigsaw puzzle).
Start to finish under an hour....last thought, exercise your torque wrench b4 using.... it always scares me with these low values and not using a tool in a while.. so vice it and cycle it a couple times.. JUST TO BE SAFE, it is VERY easy to exceed specs and that would ruin your day!
Last step is to get plugged in and reset dash light...
Cheers
Bruce
first i will say if you have ANY mechanical skill set it is EZ...as always just have to be careful as the oil spill on exhaust is the critical issue, so warming bike is really not a good idea on these. DO THIS COLD.
1)center stand bike. COLD
2)remove lower side fairing ONLY, dont forget the nylon washers.... Note: 4 bolts across top of it, 1 back by shifter, 2 underneath AND there is a cowling inner bolt near front wheel holding the top part of leading edge in DONT BREAK THIS front tab OFF!
3)Place drain pan and remove plug. Dont forget to make sure you get crush washer out (replace with new). Torque 13Nm
now the fun part...
4)i used aluminum foil and made a damn under the filter cap with paper towels under. The object is to prevent ANY oil from getting on mufflers area. **FIRE HAZARD**
there will be significant oil spilling out from the cap so be warned to not low ball this step...
5)remove the 2 bolts holding cap. it has a top /bottom so pay attention (the cast image inside cap should be right side up). Take a pair of flat tip screw drivers and small blocks of wood to pry the cap loose. There are flats in the lower parts of the cap at about the 5'oclock and 8'0clock positions as you face cap to work with. Dont get too agressive and keep it square. Once you break the seal loose you should be able to use fingers to wiggle it off. NOTE OIL WILL COME OUT....pay close attention to mufflers and flow path...
6)the filter is a press onto a post in the cavity. The part you can see has a rubber center which flaps that you can get a pair of needle nose to grip an inner edge. DONT PRY FROM OUTER EDGE OR SCRAPE THIS CAP SEALING SURFACE OR U R SCREWED!!!!! The new filter is installed in reverse order, you will feel it seat on the post. You can inspect or just replace the cap o-rings (there are 2) be careful of cap orientation and dont cut o-rings as you replace cap in groove, light boy butter works well on o-rings (white lith grease). bolts torque to 13Nm.
7)wipe up all the areas and inspect for oil splash on mufflers, if you did this right, you should have nothing to wipe up.. if there is residue, clean it completely with a cleaner and ensure dry b4 lighting candles...
8)replace oil, inspecting for leaks. should hold about 3 1/2 quarts. fill to upper end of bulls eye. start to circ oil for a few seconds, you will hear flow in motor as its mechanical noise will change (quieter) once circulating. I only run for about 10 seconds the first time then check bulls eye level. I did have to add some after this first step to regain visible level to bulls eye...
9)Light candles and look for leaks.
10) once happy no leaks, replace lower fairing piece. NOTE it has a slot in back to upper half and kind of goes up and in on front cowling (damn thing is a jigsaw puzzle).
Start to finish under an hour....last thought, exercise your torque wrench b4 using.... it always scares me with these low values and not using a tool in a while.. so vice it and cycle it a couple times.. JUST TO BE SAFE, it is VERY easy to exceed specs and that would ruin your day!
Last step is to get plugged in and reset dash light...
Cheers
Bruce
