Powdercoat or anodize?

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b9009b

b9009b

Joined
Sep 27, 2014
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Which lasts longer, which is better for the kickstand and clipons, which is stronger.

A company near me will do both clipons and the kickstand for $65 in mil spec anodizing in black.

About the same price for powdercoating them too.
 
Anodizing would be worlds stronger, but if they are different aluminium alloys, the color may not match. Mil-spec can mean a lot of different things, and it may not be the highest standard that something can be made to.

If you want something strong that isn't dependant on the base metal like anodizing would be, look into Cerakote.
 
Thanks B.. I used this on my M27 while in. Tough ...... Just have to send it out to be done instead of a local place. Just checked Scorpion coatings does it.. Gonna give them a call. Thanks
 
Mine are all powdercoated a candy blue. At least my wheels, rearsets and rear shock are. All my other parts are obviously anodized. I'd do powdercoated all parts at the same time so there's no variance in color.
 
Anodizing aluminium is strongly dependant on the alloy, The parts you want to anodize are casted, that alloy is event more difficult. Easiest is no color (silver) or black. But there will be color variances for sure.

Most people don't know, there's another process called "hard anodize" wich is different to normal anodizing aluminium. More expensive, thicker oxide coat, extremely durable. Thats maybe what the guys mean when they call it MIL spec'd.
 
I would think powerder... I find anodized finished to be very weak...fade faster than PC.

but I don't know anything about the other stuff...cerakote
 
Cerakote is what is used on weapons. I actually found a place local to me that is run by a Veteran and he is pumped to do the Pani parts.. He is gonna do it and I'll post pics up for everyone to see.
 
Hard anodising is essentially a few microns thicker than normal anodising. As has been said, the finish and uniformity of colour over the part, depends on the type and purity of the alloy. A lot of the parts on the Panigale are forged not cast, as many people mistakenly point out. However you will need to have all the old anodising stripped off before you can re-apply a new colour. On the sidestand, be aware that constant rubbing from your boot, will mark powder coating quite easily. Hard anodizing will stand up to a little more punishment. If you can get several parts together it will be cheaper than a few parts, as most companies (and I am sure this is true in the US) will only do it cheaper if they can coat them as part of a bigger batch run. For extra peace of mind you could also protect the contact point on the sidestand with some 3M film where your boot comes into contact with it. As for the top yoke/clip ons, you could get away with normal anodising but you run the risk of it scratching easily exposing the alloy underneath. I would definitely not powder coat these parts as you will find it extremely difficult to fit the yoke over the forks and steerring stem nut, unless they have been meticulous at masking off these areas. The other disadvantage is powder coating is so thick, that you will lose the definition of the part (crispness of the edges) in some places, where the coating builds up, which tends to make it look less of a milled work of art and more like a cheap painted casting. Whichever you choose, good luck.
 
Thanks Topo And Gecko i know you 2 have world's of knowledge on this over me.


BTW hows the bike looking Topo?
 
topolino said:
Hard anodising is essentially a few microns thicker than normal anodising. As has been said, the finish and uniformity of colour over the part, depends on the type and purity of the alloy. A lot of the parts on the Panigale are forged not cast, as many people mistakenly point out. However you will need to have all the old anodising stripped off before you can re-apply a new colour. On the sidestand, be aware that constant rubbing from your boot, will mark powder coating quite easily. Hard anodizing will stand up to a little more punishment. If you can get several parts together it will be cheaper than a few parts, as most companies (and I am sure this is true in the US) will only do it cheaper if they can coat them as part of a bigger batch run. For extra peace of mind you could also protect the contact point on the sidestand with some 3M film where your boot comes into contact with it. As for the top yoke/clip ons, you could get away with normal anodising but you run the risk of it scratching easily exposing the alloy underneath. I would definitely not powder coat these parts as you will find it extremely difficult to fit the yoke over the forks and steerring stem nut, unless they have been meticulous at masking off these areas. The other disadvantage is powder coating is so thick, that you will lose the definition of the part (crispness of the edges) in some places, where the coating builds up, which tends to make it look less of a milled work of art and more like a cheap painted casting. Whichever you choose, good luck.
Click to expand...


Uhhh, I didn't know that they forge some parts as well. That explains a lot! :)
 
b9009b said:
Thanks B.. I used this on my M27 while in. Tough ...... Just have to send it out to be done instead of a local place. Just checked Scorpion coatings does it.. Gonna give them a call. Thanks
Click to expand...

You painted your IAR? There's an armorer out there that just stroked out at the thought of it...
 
b9009b said:
Whole new can of worms now buddy haha.. Educate us Gecko and Topo
Click to expand...

Lol :)
Two things that immediately came into my mind...
1st the OEM clipons as well as other parts are extremely light, lighter than CNC made ones.
2nd I saw a lot of anodized parts that looked very good to my suprise. Casting alloys are really .... for anodizing. Forging alloy is different.
 
Gecko said:
Lol :)
Two things that immediately came into my mind...
1st the OEM clipons as well as other parts are extremely light, lighter than CNC made ones.
2nd I saw a lot of anodized parts that looked very good to my suprise. Casting alloys are really .... for anodizing. Forging alloy is different.
Click to expand...

Different for the better or worse..
 
Definitely post up asap as. I think all of the bare metal pieces need to be black on this bike...including the exaust (I know many may disagree). I was considering getting all of Triple clamp and the suspension/rearset area done too.

what's the cost looking like for this place to you cerakote?
 
krissrock said:
Definitely post up asap as. I think all of the bare metal pieces need to be black on this bike...including the exaust (I know many may disagree). I was considering getting all of Triple clamp and the suspension/rearset area done too.

what's the cost looking like for this place to you cerakote?
Click to expand...

I agree all black and red will be awesome. Not pricey really. I let you know i may add a few more bits like the shock bracket and resevoir mounts
 
I can't believe I'd never thought of Cerakote for bike parts. I'm going to go home and see what needs coated. The only thing to keep in mind is that it's pretty slick. I wouldn't want it on my footpegs.
 

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