Powdercoat or anodize?

slickwill said:

I can't believe I'd never thought of Cerakote for bike parts. I'm going to go home and see what needs coated. The only thing to keep in mind is that it's pretty slick. I wouldn't want it on my footpegs.

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Yeah I didn't either lol. I have rizomas so no slip here. Im gonna do the kickstand, clipons, rear shock bracket and maybe the part the rearsets mount too. Cant remember what its called

b9009b said:

Whole new can of worms now buddy haha.. Educate us Gecko and Topo

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OK, I confess I spent the morning at GiaMoto in the UK a few months ago, as their factory is not far from where I live. They told me the sidestand, rearset/swing arm pivot supports, gear lever, brake lever, footrests, footrest hangars, top yoke, and clip ons, plus a number of other items on the Panigale are all forged. The tell-tale sign apparently, is the seam line running around the parts, which is formed due to the extreme pressure that is used to produce them. This is simply excess material that seeps from the periphery of the mould, but is machined or ground down, where necessary to lessen any sharp edges. With mass produced parts, the seam often remains visible, as it it doesn't exhibit any sharp points, so is left as is. There simply isn't the time or budget to dress the metal on each part to remove these seams.

With conventional casting, by contrast you are left with sprues, where the molten metal is introduced into the mould. These are removed from the part at a later stage during machining, an example being lost wax casting or sand casting. Cast parts include the swingarm, lower triple and air box/monocoque.

Incidentally, just because a part is forged, the consistency of anodising in terms of the colour, is still dependant on the purity of the aluminium (grade). Billet parts are obviously best, but in general most of the forged parts on Ducatis, do come out reasonably well, from personal experience, but expect some minor differences between some with respect to shade.

Hope this info helps.

Thank you Topo.. I am going with Cerakote so shading won't be an issue. Hopefully all the black going back on the bike makes it look the way I imagine it haha.

Black is best!. Here are some of the parts I had treated. These are not anodised but coated in a DuPont DTM paint which is incredibly hard wearing. The parts were acid etch primed, before application of the coating. I did anodise the parts initially but was not happy with the minor shade variations.

topolino said:

Black is best!View attachment 13699View attachment 13700

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Your killing me top haha. I love your bike so far.. Need to show more pics lol

b9009b said:

Your killing me top haha. I love your bike so far.. Need to show more pics lol

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They are all on the website, if you want to take a look.

topolino said:

They are all on the website, if you want to take a look.

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Where did that shorty carbon fiber tail come from? I found a link once but can't seem to dig it up again.

Has anyone ever tried hard anodizing S/R wheels?? Thinking gold...

topolino said:

Black is best!. Here are some of the parts I had treated. These are not anodised but coated in a DuPont DTM paint which is incredibly hard wearing. The parts were acid etch primed, before application of the coating. I did anodise the parts initially but was not happy with the minor shade variations. View attachment 13699View attachment 13700

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did you put it back together yet? I noticed that the holes weren't masked off from the paint... that didn't mess with the tolerances and fitment?

bp7178 said:

Where did that shorty carbon fiber tail come from? I found a link once but can't seem to dig it up again.

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Its made by CDT. It's not on their website or at least not when I last looked. I had a plate made up to hide the wiring and protect it from the elements. I know of one dealer who stocks it in the UK (Conquest Carbon), but you might want to try OPP, who are CDT's largest US supplier.

Here is a picture of it and the plate I had made for it.

krissrock said:

did you put it back together yet? I noticed that the holes weren't masked off from the paint... that didn't mess with the tolerances and fitment?

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Yes it is all back together. The DTM coating is only a few microns thick in the critical areas, but is as tough as old boots and is cured onto the metal, so short of scraping it with a sharp tool, it is not going to damage easily. The other areas had a slightly thicker application, again cured to ensure good adhesion to the aluminium and longevity.