I have a spare pump that I will look at now but i believe that it is a "non serviceable" part. Typical from Ducati. I addresses this with CDT when we started playing with the internally coated carbon tanks wondering if contamination from wear on the coating would compromise the pump. I have a #6 an in line filter from the tank bung to the fuel supply hose. This does nothing to prevent the internal assembly from being compromised but does spare the injectors. This is the same company who could not figure out how to give us a simple "spin on" oil filter.
You can open the pump, but it's a PITA. You need four slim feeler gauges, then, with a screwdriver, gently pry the lip of the separation of the pump body up to slide the feeler gauge in the lock-tab slot, providing the locktab with a ramp it can slide on. Do this to all four slots.
Unclip the electrical plug by pushing forwards the connector locktab and sliding the plug out with GENTLE pressure.
Then, with a bigger screwdriver, gently commence to wiggle the two pump halves apart. Most of the resistance is by the two Viton O-rings that seal the inlet and outlet sides of the pump mechanism. You can get someone to help you hold the lower part of the pump and use a broad, flat screwdriver or pry bar and a hammer to GENTLY tap the upper body out of the housing.
These pumps cost 700€, and they don't sell spare parts, so BE careful.
They separate fairly easily once the O-rings have let go, and you can wiggle the pump apart completely. The gauze strainer, in the photo, is then just clipped onto the base of the pump. Take the pump electrical plug off and slide the pump out. I recommend then using carb cleaner and reverse flushing the permanent filter unit which is NOT replaceable...DERP!! and let it soak a bit. Taking care not to blast fuel in your eyes (wear safety goggles) blow the filter through from the bottom into a drain tray with some clean white paper towel, and see what comes out.
If your screen is clean, and not like the one in the photo, you shouldn't have any problems. If your filter is like mine (the one in the photo...) you're likely to have some crap in there. Very, very fine crap.
This fuel was pump gas, 98 octane French fuel, and it was filtered before filling the tank, but only with the usual mesh strainer.
Many racers and track day riders have problems at the moment with fuel, and this kind of fibery build up of goop in the filter screen. Once the Panigale pump gets this much crud in it, the bike is as fast as a 600. I feel they're REALLY on the limit in terms of surface area for fuel draw, and guess you wouldn't notice the effect on power if you ride on the road, but on the track, it's a killer. The bike doesn't cut out, it just goes a bit flat after 9000 RPM.
The Viton seals sometimes suffer damage when the pumps are factory-assembled. I have seen one like that, and, of course, Ducati don't sell them separately. But they're the same as the injector body seal to the airbox on 999 or 1098's. 88.610.96.1A
Once it's all clean, reassembly is the reverse procedure. I trim the tabs down slightly to make future opening simpler, then insert the three Viton O-rings (the pump one, and the two base ones, lube them with a TINY bit of vaseline spray, carefully line the two housings up, and then gently push them together. A CAREFUL tap with a soft mallet usually clicks the housing halves together, and then reconnect the wiring plugs.
Refit the pump and torque the screws. Grease the threads, too. They don't need to be tightened by a lumberjack.
Wilco from MWR has come up with the best solution to never needing to do this ...... task ever again, and his filters are equipping virtually all the leading bikes in the EWC because having your pump clog up with crud from sub-par fuel manufacturers or any contamination during a 24 hour race is REALLY annoying...
We'll be using his filters next weekend at the Barcelona 24 Hour race, and fuel contamination should be one less thing for me to worry about.
Unclip the electrical plug by pushing forwards the connector locktab and sliding the plug out with GENTLE pressure.
Then, with a bigger screwdriver, gently commence to wiggle the two pump halves apart. Most of the resistance is by the two Viton O-rings that seal the inlet and outlet sides of the pump mechanism. You can get someone to help you hold the lower part of the pump and use a broad, flat screwdriver or pry bar and a hammer to GENTLY tap the upper body out of the housing.
These pumps cost 700€, and they don't sell spare parts, so BE careful.
They separate fairly easily once the O-rings have let go, and you can wiggle the pump apart completely. The gauze strainer, in the photo, is then just clipped onto the base of the pump. Take the pump electrical plug off and slide the pump out. I recommend then using carb cleaner and reverse flushing the permanent filter unit which is NOT replaceable...DERP!! and let it soak a bit. Taking care not to blast fuel in your eyes (wear safety goggles) blow the filter through from the bottom into a drain tray with some clean white paper towel, and see what comes out.
If your screen is clean, and not like the one in the photo, you shouldn't have any problems. If your filter is like mine (the one in the photo...) you're likely to have some crap in there. Very, very fine crap.
This fuel was pump gas, 98 octane French fuel, and it was filtered before filling the tank, but only with the usual mesh strainer.
Many racers and track day riders have problems at the moment with fuel, and this kind of fibery build up of goop in the filter screen. Once the Panigale pump gets this much crud in it, the bike is as fast as a 600. I feel they're REALLY on the limit in terms of surface area for fuel draw, and guess you wouldn't notice the effect on power if you ride on the road, but on the track, it's a killer. The bike doesn't cut out, it just goes a bit flat after 9000 RPM.
The Viton seals sometimes suffer damage when the pumps are factory-assembled. I have seen one like that, and, of course, Ducati don't sell them separately. But they're the same as the injector body seal to the airbox on 999 or 1098's. 88.610.96.1A
Once it's all clean, reassembly is the reverse procedure. I trim the tabs down slightly to make future opening simpler, then insert the three Viton O-rings (the pump one, and the two base ones, lube them with a TINY bit of vaseline spray, carefully line the two housings up, and then gently push them together. A CAREFUL tap with a soft mallet usually clicks the housing halves together, and then reconnect the wiring plugs.
Refit the pump and torque the screws. Grease the threads, too. They don't need to be tightened by a lumberjack.
Wilco from MWR has come up with the best solution to never needing to do this ...... task ever again, and his filters are equipping virtually all the leading bikes in the EWC because having your pump clog up with crud from sub-par fuel manufacturers or any contamination during a 24 hour race is REALLY annoying...
We'll be using his filters next weekend at the Barcelona 24 Hour race, and fuel contamination should be one less thing for me to worry about.
You can open the pump, but it's a PITA. You need four slim feeler gauges, then, with a screwdriver, gently pry the lip of the separation of the pump body up to slide the feeler gauge in the lock-tab slot, providing the locktab with a ramp it can slide on. Do this to all four slots.
Unclip the electrical plug by pushing forwards the connector locktab and sliding the plug out with GENTLE pressure.
Then, with a bigger screwdriver, gently commence to wiggle the two pump halves apart. Most of the resistance is by the two Viton O-rings that seal the inlet and outlet sides of the pump mechanism. You can get someone to help you hold the lower part of the pump and use a broad, flat screwdriver or pry bar and a hammer to GENTLY tap the upper body out of the housing.
These pumps cost 700€, and they don't sell spare parts, so BE careful.
They separate fairly easily once the O-rings have let go, and you can wiggle the pump apart completely. The gauze strainer, in the photo, is then just clipped onto the base of the pump. Take the pump electrical plug off and slide the pump out. I recommend then using carb cleaner and reverse flushing the permanent filter unit which is NOT replaceable...DERP!! and let it soak a bit. Taking care not to blast fuel in your eyes (wear safety goggles) blow the filter through from the bottom into a drain tray with some clean white paper towel, and see what comes out.
If your screen is clean, and not like the one in the photo, you shouldn't have any problems. If your filter is like mine (the one in the photo...) you're likely to have some crap in there. Very, very fine crap.
This fuel was pump gas, 98 octane French fuel, and it was filtered before filling the tank, but only with the usual mesh strainer.
Many racers and track day riders have problems at the moment with fuel, and this kind of fibery build up of goop in the filter screen. Once the Panigale pump gets this much crud in it, the bike is as fast as a 600. I feel they're REALLY on the limit in terms of surface area for fuel draw, and guess you wouldn't notice the effect on power if you ride on the road, but on the track, it's a killer. The bike doesn't cut out, it just goes a bit flat after 9000 RPM.
The Viton seals sometimes suffer damage when the pumps are factory-assembled. I have seen one like that, and, of course, Ducati don't sell them separately. But they're the same as the injector body seal to the airbox on 999 or 1098's. 88.610.96.1A
Once it's all clean, reassembly is the reverse procedure. I trim the tabs down slightly to make future opening simpler, then insert the three Viton O-rings (the pump one, and the two base ones, lube them with a TINY bit of vaseline spray, carefully line the two housings up, and then gently push them together. A CAREFUL tap with a soft mallet usually clicks the housing halves together, and then reconnect the wiring plugs.
Refit the pump and torque the screws. Grease the threads, too. They don't need to be tightened by a lumberjack.
Wilco from MWR has come up with the best solution to never needing to do this ...... task ever again, and his filters are equipping virtually all the leading bikes in the EWC because having your pump clog up with crud from sub-par fuel manufacturers or any contamination during a 24 hour race is REALLY annoying...
We'll be using his filters next weekend at the Barcelona 24 Hour race, and fuel contamination should be one less thing for me to worry about.
Do you have any pics of what they fuel filters look like?
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Not yet. I'll be getting them tomorrow or Monday. I'll post photos and results after the race. It's basically a kind of fantastically fine (8 microns or something) sock which goes over the entire pump and prevents any crap actually getting into the housing. It's washable, too. I was looking at having a base plate milled up to which you could fit an 1198 type pump set-up with changeable filter, but Wilco's solution looks to be the best guarantee of preventing crud getting into the pump assembly. The cheapest, too.
They do ones for the big Japanese brands, and I don't know anyone NOT using them in SBK or endurance.
Not yet. I'll be getting them tomorrow or Monday. I'll post photos and results after the race. It's basically a kind of fantastically fine (8 microns or something) sock which goes over the entire pump and prevents any crap actually getting into the housing. It's washable, too. I was looking at having a base plate milled up to which you could fit an 1198 type pump set-up with changeable filter, but Wilco's solution looks to be the best guarantee of preventing crud getting into the pump assembly. The cheapest, too.
They do ones for the big Japanese brands, and I don't know anyone NOT using them in SBK or endurance.
actually, right after i posted, i went to MWR's site and saw the filters they have for the japanese bikes....it looks like a giant condom for the fuel pump!
Joined Sep 2015
212 Posts | 53+
Asheville, NC
Really wish they would go back to inline fuel filters with quick connects that can be easily swapped out - but that's too practical
What was the source of the fuel in the OP? They may have been a contributor - most gas purchased from high traffic stations doesn't have this problem
What was the source of the fuel in the OP? They may have been a contributor - most gas purchased from high traffic stations doesn't have this problem
Joined Jun 2015
202 Posts | 80+
Boston
So there is no inline fuel filter at all? Even down stream of the pump to protect the injectors?
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