Quick shifter micro switch

I had the same issues with Cordona, it was horrific.
OEM QS is brilliant! Although, I believe the shift times on early bikes was poor. On my V4R (19) and base (22), it's superb.

Also had a couple of weird shifts like what Craig described the first day i tried the Cordona but no problems since. It works really well.

Problem with the stock shifter is it has a mechanical switch and that's sub-optimal.

I respectfully disagree. I too prefer the OEM style. Being a strain gauge doesn't make the Cordona superior, some people may prefer it, but it wasn't for me.

I think the problems with the Cordona are centered around the fact that you cannot adjust it. There is another strain type on the market, H&M?, in which you can. The bike is looking for a certain voltage to cut or blip and the amount of pressure you apply to the Cordona changes the voltage making it easier to miss the target voltage. The OEM shifter will always hit the cut or blip voltage since its a mechanical switch.

bp_SFV4 said:

I respectfully disagree. I too prefer the OEM style. Being a strain gauge doesn't make the Cordona superior, some people may prefer it, but it wasn't for me.

I think the problems with the Cordona are centered around the fact that you cannot adjust it. There is another strain type on the market, H&M?, in which you can. The bike is looking for a certain voltage to cut or blip and the amount of pressure you apply to the Cordona changes the voltage making it easier to miss the target voltage. The OEM shifter will always hit the cut or blip voltage since its a mechanical switch.

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Good point!

I think a strain gauge type would require a programmable ecu in this case.

I humbly assume that I've learnt how to shift with the Cordona, an abrupt and committed tap on the shift lever.

I wonder if the domino shifter is any different from stock since the latter is also made by them. Has anyone tried it?

But 407 euros... Yikes!

Looks almost exactly like the stock item but labelled as racing use...

Domino is the OEM for just about every +5v style up/down QS on the market, including of course Ducati. That looks nothing more than an OEM QS which has a black body. If you look at the OEM QS, it says Domino on the top. IDK what is different about that QS, maybe spring tension?

ECU changes would be the cut and blip times/percentages. I think, pure speculation, the H&M QS is changing the voltage sent to the ECU, so whatever force you apply the ECU sees what is in its target range for an up cut or a down blip.

IIRC, you have a Texa. You can hookup and read the QS voltage the ECU sees. Play with the pressure on the lever and see how it affects what the ECU sees. I think the adaptive values, which you can reset, are nothing more than tuning to the up/down voltages which are particular to the QS you are using. Meaning, QS 1 sends 3.8500v for an up, but QS 2 sends 3.8000v for an up. The ECU merely adapts to know what to expect. This is all speculation on my part.

I wonder if a full standalone unit like the IRC would outperform oem.

My first thought was that looks a lot like the H&M QS. I think both are doing similar things.

bp_SFV4 said:

IIRC, you have a Texa. You can hookup and read the QS voltage the ECU sees. Play with the pressure on the lever and see how it affects what the ECU sees. I think the adaptive values, which you can reset, are nothing more than tuning to the up/down voltages which are particular to the QS you are using. Meaning, QS 1 sends 3.8500v for an up, but QS 2 sends 3.8000v for an up. The ECU merely adapts to know what to expect. This is all speculation on my part.

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But if it’s a switch type QS will pressure have any linear effect on voltage?

I would have thought it would show one voltage or another.

The switch is either activated or its not. More or less pressure on the OEM QS doesn't change the voltage the ECU sees.

my observation is,
all bikes needs nearly the same shift force.
it may in rare cases helpfull to adjust it, but for me that is not a must have.
more important is imho learning to handle it, especially the blipper.
a must have is, that this fu******* thing doesn't fu** me.
as happens just yet with plugNplay Cordona replacement sensors the second time.
i liked the oem sensor before, now i love it.
because it's simple, you need ears, hands, a voltmeter and a weight-scale.
little grease and fine sandpaper maybe.

Spud312r said:

What tools/diag unit do you guy use ??

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No data-recording, no scope, no computer.
memo to me: don't leave the scope at home.

craig bush said:

I wonder if a full standalone unit like the IRC would outperform oem.

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maybe, until it fails, as also happened right now, same weekend another bike.
less a problem if you have spare sparts with you.

Other than crash spares, I carry a spare gear position sensor, and spare quickshifter.

OEM is def better than Cordona, more reliable and cheaper.

chris16 said:

maybe, until it fails, as also happened right now, same weekend another bike…

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Which unit?

an older up/down device at a S1K. don't know wich translogic model exactly. (edit: with Display)
The Translogic have a signal light, error detection...and so on.
this is way better then the cordona replacment unit.
Failure was sporadic missing Actions.
This is not that not-funny as the sporadic unwanted Cordona actions.
these caused hard power drops (or blips?), long enough to "bunny act" the bike.
we first thought about loose battery connection.

btw. the part number of the oem sensor has changed from 55215484C to
55215481D
what's the differences?

I had issues with my stock sensor acting weird and tried both aftermarket donors, but no joy. I finally found my clutch switch was intermittent causing the weird shifting problems. Replaced clutch switch and put the oem sensor back in. Works perfectly now. Nothing wrong with oem sensor action.

Oops, please replace "translogic" in post 54 with "IRC".