QuickShifter Low Voltage Reading & Failing OBD Iscan Diag Test Run

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I have just been servicing my 2020 MY Panigale V4 and decided to run the passive and active tests on the various systems. When running the DQS diag the system says that it fails, due to what looks like low voltage on the downshift side.

Anyone had similar and fixed it keeping the standard shifter? Or should I look to replace with an aftermarket unit?

The shifter was working ok last time out.
 
I wouldn't worry about the QS test feature in iScan. Look at the sensor values in real time. It should be something like 3.8v for an up, 1.8v for a down and 2.5 idle. If you are getting those, there isn't a problem with the QS.
 
I wouldn't worry about the QS test feature in iScan. Look at the sensor values in real time. It should be something like 3.8v for an up, 1.8v for a down and 2.5 idle. If you are getting those, there isn't a problem with the QS.

I will redo the test tomorrow and screen shot the results as I can’t remember the exact values. I think it was reading less than 1.0V on the down from memory.
 
I have the OBDSTAR Iscan tool and noticed some anomolous readings/codes this past week. On a test ride prior to scanning, my quickshifter worked perfectly. During the scan, I was seeing some pending throttle postion codes and the DQS ERR message appeared on my dash (while the bike was on but stationary and not running and not shifting). This was a bit worrisome but after diconnecting th scanner and keying off/on, no DQS ERR apeared and all was fine. I rode the next two days and all was fine. No codes, no errors. I think the scanner may be finicky based in battery voltage and maybe the order you connect/dsconnect it versus key on/off. Who knows.
 
You can't disconnect it when the key is in the on position, the bike will have a fit and you'll get an error message on the dash.
 
So I ran the rest again a couple of times and I did not get entirely consistent results, as can be seen from the images below.

Does anyone know what values the unit should be reading from an healthy DQS?
FCB946C8-9104-4A4C-BD21-FC37ACFA8245.jpeg9DA4D2BB-90C8-4C69-AB1B-91FC6E9FF3CD.jpeg
 
2.5v idle, 3.8v up and I think 1.8v down.

Instead of doing the test, go into the ECU where you can see the live value and see if it’s the same.
 
Curious about everyone's findings here regarding the QS values. This bike has been a QS nightmare since new. OEM unit sucks, has sent me off track more than once refusing to engage when downshifting and not registering a gear position on the display; Cordona replacement worked much more consistently for over a year until it bricked the bike in limp mode with DQS ERR, and dealer blamed the Cordona; latest Translogic unit works for about 20 minutes before throwing a CEL with varying codes and bricked bike into limp mode again on 3rd test ride.
I'm seeing voltage values pretty consistent in the Test function compared to live, with the Translogic barely getting over 3V Upshift and just under 2V downshift.. the OEM unit hits over 4.5V Upshift but only .5V downshift.
Am I dealing with a bad OEM QS, along with aftermarket units that can't hit the target voltages consistently? The plug & play aftermarket QS units are not really programmable, which sucks. I may reinstall the Cordona to see what values it gives just so I know and use whichever is the least worst.

My last ditch effort will be to invest in an IRC system, me thinks. I purchased one for my Monster R and though the harness installation is far from easy, that unit operates completely independent of the factory programming and allows tons of adjustments for timing, pressure, dwell, length of signal, etc. I just don't have confidence that any plug & play QS is going to satisfy the factory programming at this point
 

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