Rear cam chain tensioner.... leaking?

Jleosnow · Apr 3, 2021

Hello all,
Just curious if anyone else has experienced this issue? Seems there is an O-ring used to seal it(apparent on parts fiche) but it isn’t serviced separately from the tensioner. Im pretty certain I would be able to find an O-ring that would fit but was just curious if anyone else has seen this also on their 1199?

Thanks much,
-John

endodoc · Apr 3, 2021

The cam chain tensioner has an aluminum crush washer.

Jleosnow · Apr 3, 2021

Thank you for that information endodoc, much appreciated! I obviously couldn’t tell by the parts diagram... Now that I know this, I‘m pretty certain I would be able to find the correct size crush washer.

With that info now known, has anyone else ever seen one of these leak due to a poor seal between the engine and the tensioner? I did check the torque(25Nm) and it was not loose....

Thanks,
-John

endodoc · Apr 3, 2021

Hey John, I have had a few motors in my possession and have never personally seen one leak that was installed and torqued to spec. The shop manual list the washer and tensioner as a single unit (typical Ducati) so it appears through traditional channels that the washer is not available as a separate item. May want to call AMS Ducati and ask. Regardless, it should be relatively easy to source. 20mm I.d 24mm o.d 1.5mm tall

Jleosnow · Apr 3, 2021

Thanks again! I can source the washer pretty easily as I work at a Honda automotive dealership and know we stock a 20mm crush washer for rear differentials in the SUV’s.

On a side note, can I R&R the tensioner without any issues of it over extending and not being able to thread it back into the cylinder?

Thanks!
-John

DumpsterFirePani · Apr 3, 2021

Surprised no one has made billet mechanical adjusters for a race motor that’s been around for 10 years

How do they degree the cam in without oil pressure???

endodoc · Apr 3, 2021

Hi John, yes on the R&R. The tensioner is fully self contained and it will back off the the tensioner roller with little effort. The spring pressure is minimal and the tensioner will disengage before the unit is fully removed (threaded portion)

Jleosnow · Apr 3, 2021

endodoc said:
Hi John, yes on the R&R. The tensioner is fully self contained and it will back off the the tensioner roller with little effort. The spring pressure is minimal and the tensioner will disengage before the unit is fully removed (threaded portion)

Great, thanks again!

-John

endodoc · Apr 3, 2021

Here are some shots of the case. With the tensioner threaded down 4 turns the plunger is just coming through the head and no where near the tensioner roller yet.

DumpsterFirePani · Apr 3, 2021

Lite spring + not pumped up = inaccurate cam centerline numbers

Someone had to of addressed this

Mick chase em all off?

#HarshEnvironment

endodoc · Apr 3, 2021

The tensioner is pressurized. You can see the oil passage in the photo of the socket for the tensioner. There are 4 pressurization inlet holes in the top of the tensioner. I’m sure Don will set the Ducati engineering department straight but for now, we will just have to live with what we have.

DumpsterFirePani · Apr 3, 2021

Yes I understand how a hydraulic timing chain tensioner functions

With one in place I put cam centerline where I want it but then the tensioner pumps up on start up and the centerline isn’t where I put it anymore

That’s why I have always used mechanical tensioners

Look at the parts. Ain’t gonna be too hard to make a mechanical one. And plugging those oil holes is easier than plugging the holes in the exhaust ports : )

endodoc · Apr 3, 2021

Ok sounds good, get on it.

Jleosnow · May 2, 2021

Just a follow up on this. It was not the tensioner that was leaking, it was the rear valve cover gasket. Replaced and all is well!

Thanks,
-John

Mick1976 · May 2, 2021

This is pretty common on these bike. Start off with a new gasket and put a small bead of Yamabond sealant on the head side before the black seal and cover will never leak again.

Jleosnow said:
Just a follow up on this. It was not the tensioner that was leaking, it was the rear valve cover gasket. Replaced and all is well!

Thanks,
-John

Jleosnow · May 2, 2021

Mick1976 said:
This is pretty common on these bike. Start off with a new gasket and put a small bead of Yamabond sealant on the head side before the black seal and cover will never leak again.

Mick1976,
Just trying to properly understand what you are saying regarding sealant placement. Are you saying to put it in-between the valve cover gasket and the valve cover(in the groove of the valve cover) or in-between the mating surface of the gasket and metal cylinder head surface?

Thanks,
-John

Mick1976 · May 2, 2021

Yes mating surface is where you want the Yamabond. Some people have done both sides but not needed.

Jleosnow said:
Mick1976,
Just trying to properly understand what you are saying regarding sealant placement. Are you saying to put it in-between the valve cover gasket and the valve cover(in the groove of the valve cover) or in-between the mating surface of the gasket and metal cylinder head surface?

Thanks,
-John

Jleosnow · May 2, 2021

Mick1976 said:
Yes mating surface is where you want the Yamabond. Some people have done both sides but not needed.

Thanks for the clarification Mick.

-John

bittrl1000 · Apr 12, 2022

Just wanted to add that my 2013 1199 appears to be leaking where the vertical cylinder's tensioner bolt head/washer is. I just fixed a leak with the valve cover. And I'm 95% sure the oil is not coming from the valve cover. The oil first appears right where the washer is. I'm going to see if I can find a crush washer that will match the dimensions, because the whole tensioner/washer assembly is $90+.

bittrl1000 · Apr 13, 2022

So I think I fixed the leak without replacing the washer. Before I posted here yesterday, I checked the torque, and it seemed to be correctly set at least 25 nm. But I think the exhaust shield was keeping my torque wrench from sitting fully on the bolt head, so the full torque wasn't getting to the bolt. I took the tensioner out, and put it back, and made sure torque wrench was fully on the bolt head. I've run the bike at least 20 minutes now, and no leaking. Before, oil drops would form within 15 seconds or so.

Rear cam chain tensioner.... leaking?

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