"S" to "R"?

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"That's really assuming a lot. An engine can blow for any number of reasons. Did you pull his engine and diagnose the cause on site or at your shop?"

we could see that the conrod went... as we could see the rest of the engines inners...

i guess a picture speaks a 1000 words

does this mean that ALL engines blow? Of course not. Are there people tracking that never see the rev lights come on ? of course there are. Will these engines hold? utterly likely they will. But for those who do see the lights a lot of the time and only ride like that : GO TITANIUM INTERNALS!

but ok: Pani engines never blow. Whether it's a base or an R engine, you can do anything you want to it. Pod around town burning your ass or rev the living daylights out of it for 95% of it s existence, it doesn't matter : All you need to do is stick to the streetmaintenance schedule every so often. which, at 24K km , in the average owners ownershipspan might not happen at all. And should the eventuality of the impossible do happen to you, Ducati will be waiting with a brandnew 13 to 20k engine for you, including some nice Lavazza coffee and a ' My engine does not blow' T shirt.. :)
 

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"That's really assuming a lot. An engine can blow for any number of reasons. Did you pull his engine and diagnose the cause on site or at your shop?"

we could see that the conrod went... as we could see the rest of the engines inners...

i guess a picture speaks a 1000 words

does this mean that ALL engines blow? Of course not. Are there people tracking that never see the rev lights come on ? of course there are. Will these engines hold? utterly likely they will. But for those who do see the lights a lot of the time and only ride like that : GO TITANIUM INTERNALS!

but ok: Pani engines never blow. Whether it's a base or an R engine, you can do anything you want to it. Pod around town burning your ass or rev the living daylights out of it for 95% of it s existence, it doesn't matter : All you need to do is stick to the streetmaintenance schedule every so often. which, at 24K km , in the average owners ownershipspan might not happen at all. And should the eventuality of the impossible do happen to you, Ducati will be waiting with a brandnew 13 to 20k engine for you, including some nice Lavazza coffee and a ' My engine does not blow' T shirt.. :)


Hey Kope, in your opinion. If I do say 10+ trackdays a year & rest would be cruising and balls out on weekend. Would you recommend an "R" at that point or do you guys feel an "S" should suffice....
 
"That's really assuming a lot. An engine can blow for any number of reasons. Did you pull his engine and diagnose the cause on site or at your shop?"

we could see that the conrod went... as we could see the rest of the engines inners...

i guess a picture speaks a 1000 words

does this mean that ALL engines blow? Of course not. Are there people tracking that never see the rev lights come on ? of course there are. Will these engines hold? utterly likely they will. But for those who do see the lights a lot of the time and only ride like that : GO TITANIUM INTERNALS!

but ok: Pani engines never blow. Whether it's a base or an R engine, you can do anything you want to it. Pod around town burning your ass or rev the living daylights out of it for 95% of it s existence, it doesn't matter : All you need to do is stick to the streetmaintenance schedule every so often. which, at 24K km , in the average owners ownershipspan might not happen at all. And should the eventuality of the impossible do happen to you, Ducati will be waiting with a brandnew 13 to 20k engine for you, including some nice Lavazza coffee and a ' My engine does not blow' T shirt.. :)

That is some grade A fear mongering right there bravo. As if TI internals are impervious to failure. Yes I should void my warranty with TI internals preach on!
 
When are you getting into ' beware' territory. If you ride every trackday in the top 15% of bikes or in the better half of the fastest group. Then if you do more then 75% of all km's like this or at least 3000 km per year. Is this possible : my buddy did 1200 track km in fast group just last week ... so yes , it is possible...

if you ride it on the road that much and don't set it up for track use (especially tires) the chance that the tires will keep you humble or cautious enough not to be revving the tits of it, you'll be fine with the S... it's once you ride it 90% of it s life in 'fast group' mode that there i would change... But if you do track 10 + days and you know you re really using it, it won't hurt to change the oil every 1000 km either, now will it.. ... even Porshes have their own 'track maintanance schedules'.

I'm not bringing the message that those engines are suspect. But we do know that there are circumstances where the conrods just won't cope.. I, for one am so glad i opted for the R as i now should not worry. Even if i should push the bounderies a bit further.. which was the point for the project to start with.

but first and for all : enjoy ! :)
 
I did a write-up somewhere on the S vs. R, but it really just boils down to looks and how fast the R revs compared to the base or S model.

But congrats. The R is one of the most wicked bikes ever built.[/QUOTEBut so is the S
 
"That's really assuming a lot. An engine can blow for any number of reasons. Did you pull his engine and diagnose the cause on site or at your shop?"

we could see that the conrod went... as we could see the rest of the engines inners...

i guess a picture speaks a 1000 words

does this mean that ALL engines blow? Of course not. Are there people tracking that never see the rev lights come on ? of course there are. Will these engines hold? utterly likely they will. But for those who do see the lights a lot of the time and only ride like that : GO TITANIUM INTERNALS!

but ok: Pani engines never blow. Whether it's a base or an R engine, you can do anything you want to it. Pod around town burning your ass or rev the living daylights out of it for 95% of it s existence, it doesn't matter : All you need to do is stick to the streetmaintenance schedule every so often. which, at 24K km , in the average owners ownershipspan might not happen at all. And should the eventuality of the impossible do happen to you, Ducati will be waiting with a brandnew 13 to 20k engine for you, including some nice Lavazza coffee and a ' My engine does not blow' T shirt.. :)

-- what is that......an ash tray ? :)
 
My little red girl said goodbye Saturday.



Her slightly meaner sister arrived. Mods already coming.:)





I haven't put the first mile on her yet thanks to a viral infection.

Special thanks to Melillimoto Ducati in Ocala.
 
I currently own the S model and the R model. the bikes are almost exactly the same . but what you will notice is the acceleration of the R is much quicker than the S most specially in the 5,000-11,000rpm range. As for the handling, it feels the same since I am not going to adjust the swing arm any time soon.

at low speeds, the R feels like it wants to "go"faster, I think this is because of the sprocket set up or lightfly wheel, or the sprocket set up, I do not know, let go of the clutch of the r and let go of the clutch of the S and you will know what I mean, you will feel it right out of the garage.

Now the bad thing, My R tends to stall while the S does not stall. perhaps due to the lightweight fly wheel? I do know if the stalling R is just limited to my unit.


I had an S and felt the same way about the stalling with my new R... At walking speed or at stop and go speed I stalled about 5 times the first week. I thought it was strange and as I got used to the R, I came to the conclusion that it's probably the lighter flywheel and required more feathering/throttle to get things going. After she gets moving... it's another story. She's a beast!

I loooove my R. I can't quantify the difference between the S and the R but it's definitely more that the the sum of the different parts (41 sprocket, lighter flywheel, etc.)
 
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I had an S and felt the same way about the stalling... At walking speed or at stop and go speed I stalled about 5 times the first week. I thought it was strange and as I got used to the R, I came to the conclusion that it's probably the lighter flywheel and required more feathering/throttle to get things going. After she gets moving... it's another story. She's a beast!

I loooove my R. I can't quantify the difference between the S and the R but it's definitely more that the the sum of the different parts (41 sprocket, lighter flywheel, etc.)

That first 600 miles is going to be so painful. It was on my "S". I'm already planning a trip to the mountains post first service.:D
 
I took it easy on the first 300km only. After that I went all out. Hated the orange rpm markers(I think around 7k rpm) until the first 1000km even though it was just a "suggestion".
 
For serious hard revving tracking : the R is the only option.. Today another base blew at our local track... to those tracking a base engine : get the Titanium conrods ...

I track my base all the time never had any engine issues other than the top valve cover gasket leaked twice. How the hell did they blow the motor on the bikes? I have seen the motor teared apart before and I must say its built to perform and last. I have even over revved my bike accidentally several times at the track and nothing has happened.
 
I track my base all the time never had any engine issues other than the top valve cover gasket leaked twice. How the hell did they blow the motor on the bikes? I have seen the motor teared apart before and I must say its built to perform and last. I have even over revved my bike accidentally several times at the track and nothing has happened.

Conrods are .... .
 
I had an S and felt the same way about the stalling with my new R... At walking speed or at stop and go speed I stalled about 5 times the first week. I thought it was strange and as I got used to the R, I came to the conclusion that it's probably the lighter flywheel and required more feathering/throttle to get things going. After she gets moving... it's another story. She's a beast!

I loooove my R. I can't quantify the difference between the S and the R but it's definitely more that the the sum of the different parts (41 sprocket, lighter flywheel, etc.)

Concerning the stalling it seems there is a relation with the clutch handle microswitch. There is a small bendable metal piece in that switch. Not sure how I can explain this. When you pull the clutch you will see it hits the bendable metal piece and actuates the switch. We made sure the clutch switch is working a bit earlier then it was. This switch is also important for the engine braking system. It all works together. clutch, switch, engine braking, butterfly opens tiny bit when engine braking system works. No more stalling for me today.

Hope this helps you.
 

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