Serious Electronic Problem

kaido said:

standard clutch, clutch was check and inspected when i had the lighten flywheel installed and was in good condition.

we had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel line out of the tank on the dyno, and as i mention it was little all over the place, it would fluctuated when trying to hold the throttle constantly open. Hence why we swap tanks with new pump and reg but it made no difference and we where still getting similar readings with the new pump and reg.

we where getting reading around 3bar on idle, then while hold throttle constant in gear it was jump between 2ish bar and 3.5bar with drops to 0 zero, once you got hard on the throttle and in the higher rpm range the pressure would hold constant at around 3 bar

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such a strongly fluctuating fuel pressure could be the reason, because fuel amount depends by design on opening timing of injectors only with a defined fuel pressure. If the pressure is not constant (for what reason ever), the fuel amout (defined in the engine mapping) will not be as it should be for this engine speed/load condition.

Phl said:

that would .... up ignition, so have you disconnected it for a test run or tried a different shifter (or replaced the micro switch in the housing)

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A good point. I was playing around when I installed the cordona QS last week on the Tri. As soon as QS sends a pulse, the engine's ignition stop for a fraction of a second. If the micro switch it broken in the OEM QS, that could lead to very strange behaviour. As Phl said, just unplug it.

kaido said:

standard clutch, clutch was check and inspected when i had the lighten flywheel installed and was in good condition.

we had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel line out of the tank on the dyno, and as i mention it was little all over the place, it would fluctuated when trying to hold the throttle constantly open. Hence why we swap tanks with new pump and reg but it made no difference and we where still getting similar readings with the new pump and reg.

we where getting reading around 3bar on idle, then while hold throttle constant in gear it was jump between 2ish bar and 3.5bar with drops to 0 zero, once you got hard on the throttle and in the higher rpm range the pressure would hold constant at around 3 bar

Click to expand...

Then I would said follow Phils advise and disconnect the QS and see if that's the issue. its shuts off the ignition for a split second when activated and that sounds like what is happening after a second read. You may owe Phil a beer lol

Phl said:

that would .... up ignition, so have you disconnected it for a test run or tried a different shifter (or replaced the micro switch in the housing)

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even with the QuickShift disconnected the software is still reading it is engaging and disengaging and the problem is still there.

Back to back runs on the dyno with the QS connected and Disconnect problem still happens, we also try that a day ago when we where replacing parts and doing road testing

jogy said:

such a strongly fluctuating fuel pressure could be the reason, because fuel amount depends by design on opening timing of injectors only with a defined fuel pressure. If the pressure is not constant (for what reason ever), the fuel amout (defined in the engine mapping) will not be as it should be for this engine speed/load condition.

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that is our line of thinking aswell, add to that, the injectors are giving off odd readings makes us believe it is something fuel related BUT the big problem is what is causing the bike to do this?

we have pretty much replaced all the parts that either control the fuel or give fuel, apart from the injectors

one thing i didn't think of doing now is turning the DQS off on the dash hmmm

Check your TC and front and rear speed sensors/harness.

ScrapperX said:

Check your TC and front and rear speed sensors/harness.

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+1

i once mounted the front wheel the wrong way round (in a rush), which resulted in the ABS ring being on the wrong side.

the bike ran like a sack of nuts until i turned everything off .

QS was still on though, but that has'nt been my source of problems...

jeeez... what an odyssey!
i'll keep my fingers crossed that you find the root of the problem.
Anyway. it's a very interesting thread, many clever thoughts from you guys in the forum!

ok another update,

today we try turning the DQS off on the dash, this seem to solve the problem, we did 20km of road testing and the problem has gone.

We are going to do some more road testing tomorrow, then on monday again.

At the moment it looks like it was an issue with the QS, which is interesting as i had my gear sensor replaced, as i was getting a gear sensor error. The problem happen after the sensor was replaced, it seems that turning the DQS off on the dash as clear the problem as we turn it back on and did 10km on the road and no issue.

I guess the next step after the road testing is trace the QS wiring to make sure that it is all fine aswell look at the ecu which controls the QS

Sounds like you have a lead to go off now. Keep us posted.

So here is an update after doing 300km on the bike the issue is back again.

Initially we turn the DQS off on the dash and the issue went away then when switching it back on again the issue was no longer there.

The issue is back again, with DQS on the issue comes and goes (the longer you ride it the worst it gets), as soon as you switch DQS Off the issue is gone.

So looks like a DQS issue, i guess the next step is to replace the quickshifter unit. I am hoping the issue isn't related to anything in the dash :/

I am having similar issues on my bike for the past couple of weeks. Story goes:

One fine day decided to bring the bike our for a ride after 3 weeks of not riding it, but somehow between 300-4100 rpm, the bike sputters and at times sounds like only one cylinder is firing. Only happens when holding constant throttle on the highway. If I roll off and on, it's gets better then happens again. Anything below and above the "zone", all good.

Tried some "home" remedy from suggestions in the forum, from cleaning the abs sensor both fronts and rear, to checking if the tank vent tube is pinched, disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour hoping it will reset, trying to reset the TPS by turning on the ignition but not firing it up, and rolling the throttle to WOT a couple of times, checking if any fuse is blown, filling it up with premium fuel, using injector cleaners, and lastly, turning all electronic aids. But nothing works.

Bought it to the dealer today, swap out the ecu with another bike, fired it up and went for a test ride, all good! Question is, other than replacing the ecu (it costs more than USD2.5k after exchange rate etc by the dealer), is there other options that I can look at? Thought of grabbing a ecu from eBay but most of it are US version, whereas mine is a EU version.

Is there any plug and play options that is idiot proof? I am not very good wif wires and such stuff.


By the way, riding a MY12 1199s ABS.

Can you or have you tried to reflash the ECU?

bp7178 said:

Can you or have you tried to reflash the ECU?

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Not from the dealer. And as we only have one dealer, the option is probably not available to me.

Did you try using Tuneboy to reflash it to the 206 or 207 version of the stock firmware? The "STD" tune files?

bp7178 said:

Did you try using Tuneboy to reflash it to the 206 or 207 version of the stock firmware? The "STD" tune files?

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I do not have any tuning tools at the moment, but am curious to try if it works. Seems like the fuel maps somehow got haywire in that particular zone, everything else seems ok. So, if I were to get a plug and play unit like bazzaz to load map into it, will it work? Or am I left with no choice but to purchase a ecu, then get a bazzaz or similar products to enhance the mapping?

For ecu, any difference between us version and eu version? I understand that the us bikes comes with the charcoal canister.

Many thanks

I don't think the charcoal canister would effect anything with the ECU or flashes. All it does is filter the the gasoline vapor from the tank before venting it to the atmosphere. I removed it on my bike and no errors or anything.

So these are the various part numbers for 2014 ECUs

28642211A ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 16/05/2013 DFR:N;MOD:1199 ABS; XST:EUR,BRA,AUS

28642211C ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 29/03/2012 MOD:1199 ABS; XST:CHN CAL - CDN - CHN

28642211E ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 MOD:1199 ABS; XST:FRA FRA

28642211F ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 MOD:1199 ABS; XST:JAP JPN - TWN

From the US parts manual:

28642211C ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 29/03/2012 MOD:1199 ABS;XST:CAL,CDN CAL - CDN - CHN

What is the part number/info printed on your ECU?

I would really look for someone local who may have a Tuneboy that could do a flash for you, ideally back to stock so you can determine if that was the exact problem.

bp7178 said:

I don't think the charcoal canister would effect anything with the ECU or flashes. All it does is filter the the gasoline vapor from the tank before venting it to the atmosphere. I removed it on my bike and no errors or anything.

So these are the various part numbers for 2014 ECUs

28642211A ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 16/05/2013 DFR:N;MOD:1199 ABS; XST:EUR,BRA,AUS

28642211C ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 29/03/2012 MOD:1199 ABS; XST:CHN CAL - CDN - CHN

28642211E ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 MOD:1199 ABS; XST:FRA FRA

28642211F ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 MOD:1199 ABS; XST:JAP JPN - TWN

From the US parts manual:

28642211C ENGINE CONTROL UNIT 1 29/03/2012 MOD:1199 ABS;XST:CAL,CDN CAL - CDN - CHN

What is the part number/info printed on your ECU?

I would really look for someone local who may have a Tuneboy that could do a flash for you, ideally back to stock so you can determine if that was the exact problem.

Click to expand...

My ECU says 286.4.207.1B , EU version

However, on eBay, there are a few units with the same part number as mine but it listed US version, so I am unsure which is correct.

Am currently trying to source for persons who are able to do the flash, but chances seems low.

May I ask a noob question; when using piggyback, does it rely on the stock map and modify it or does it have its own map file that the ecu uses?

Well, a piggyback would intercept the signals coming from the ECU and modify them before they hit the injectors.

So, in theory, unless the piggyback was modifying the messed up signals, you would have the same problem. Your ECU (assuming that is the trouble part) could be misinterpreting incoming air sensors and that is causing your issue.