Smog block off plates?

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My dealer asked Ducati though, and they will not allow him to put them on and fuzzy on what warrranty issues it causes.

That's fine and all. Ducati is composed of a bunch of prima donnas, lazy Italians IMO. It's an emissions thing, that's it. This is my bike and I want these on it. I can revert and will need them later. No issues on my other TWO bikes with these plates. If this is supposed to be a street legal race bike, it wasn't meant to have this garbage on it.

I also want to relay to everyone how FILTHY the hoses were with exhaust gunk. Yeah, and that goes into your airbox, no thanks!

The notes of the QS pops are different, without the AIS they ignite closer to the exhaust opening, awesome :D.

Mission Complete:

DSC_0036.JPG
 
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That's fine and all. Ducati is composed of a bunch of prima donnas, lazy Italians IMO. It's an emissions thing, that's it. This is my bike and I want these on it. I can revert and will need them later. No issues on my other TWO bikes with these plates. If this is supposed to be a street legal race bike, it wasn't meant to have this garbage on it.

I also want to relay to everyone how FILTHY the hoses were with exhaust gunk. Yeah, and that goes into your airbox, no thanks!

The notes of the QS pops are different, without the AIS they ignite closer to the exhaust opening, awesome :D.

Mission Complete:

DSC_0036.JPG

I totally agree, I have removed smog add-ons on everything I own. And if this was doing any of the backfiring I would have. I guess I'll hang on to them, and when AR/Akro finally "show us what they got" and I choose an exhaust, I will.
 
Just wanted to throw out an update. After a long ass ride today, the bike was noticeably cooler. Like 10-15F, very NOICE!
 
I could write it in a couple of sentences (it's quite simple). I can take pictures of the installed plates, but I wont be taking it apart again lol.

I opted to leave the sensor, I was worried it would throw a code in the system and would take significant more work for no gain.

Instructions:

Remove left AIS hose from the intake plate.
Remove plate
Remove right upper fill panel, lower, and upper.
Remove screws from ECU/electronic fill panel/mounting tray (requires removal of ECU secure screw and unplugging the spark plug cable helped with clearance).
Remove carbon canister if you haven't, and remove the three screws from the ABS control module. You will see the right AIS plate and hose.
Remove hose and plate.
Reach behind ECU mounting tray and remove clips from the unit (you can see it in my pictures) and pull the hoses out. The left side is best to remove from that side.
With 5/8" vacuum bypass caps, and preferably worm screw clamps, place them on the pressure sensor and secure.

Button it back up and Viola!

Tip: Be very careful with the original smog plate bolts. They are red loc-tited. I actually torqued one and opted to replace with the original allen bolts from the gas cap in place of the hex bolts.

Before:
DSC_0035.JPG


After:
DSC_0036.JPG


Left AIS Plate:
DSC_0040.JPG


Removed Components:
DSC_0041.JPG
 
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The cats are in the muffler, so get slip-ons and you'll be golden.

PS The left side of the sensor is hard to work off, I did not remove the sensor. It would require removal of the tank, throttle bodies, and airbox. I pushed the left hose off with a very long flat head screwdriver. I forced my hand in there to put the cap on, I dropped it once. Took me 20 minutes to get out, lol. There are also gaskets, no need to use silicone etc. I can list the tools I used if you like.


If I had to rate this, I would give it a 4/10 in difficulty. For reference, air filter would be a 3/10, exhaust a 6/10, and the rearsets being a 5/10. It's hard to rate this, I'm fairly indifferent. The only difference is time really.
 
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I'll do one more thing and take a photo of all the removed parts, if you have more you did something wrong lol.
 
I could write it in a couple of sentences (it's quite simple). I can take pictures of the installed plates, but I wont be taking it apart again lol.

I opted to leave the sensor, I was worried it would throw a code in the system and would take significant more work for no gain.

Instructions:

Remove left AIS hose from the intake plate.
Remove plate
Remove right upper fill panel, lower, and upper.
Remove screws from ECU/electronic fill panel/mounting tray (requires removal of ECU secure screw and unplugging the spark plug cable helped with clearance).
Remove carbon canister if you haven't, and remove the three screws from the ABS control module. You will see the right AIS plate and hose.
Remove hose and plate.
Reach behind ECU mounting tray and remove clips from the unit (you can see it in my pictures) and pull the hoses out. The left side is best to remove from that side.
With 5/8" vacuum bypass caps, and preferably worm screw clamps, place them on the pressure sensor and secure.

Button it back up and Viola!

Tip: Be very careful with the original smog plate bolts. They are red loc-tited. I actually torqued one and opted to replace with the original allen bolts from the gas cap in place of the hex bolts.

Before:
DSC_0035.JPG


After:
DSC_0036.JPG


Left AIS Plate:
DSC_0040.JPG


Removed Components:
DSC_0041.JPG

Hey Trans,,,

2 questions, can you give me some additional detail on how you removed the hose w/clamp to the sensor on the left side and also how in the heck did you tighten a screw clamp at the same location? Any other details that you could share would help. This is the only part that is left to finish the job.

Thanks!
 
[the following comments are general in nature as I don't have experience with the Ducati in this regard] The main advantage to block off plates is to get accurate A/F readings if you are dyno-tuning your bike and/or running an auto tune. With a full exhaust system they do make some difference in popping, but not a huge difference. BTW, isn't the adjustable decel setting on the Panigale going to be a factor in how much popping you get? [/disclaimer off] I have done this mod to my Ninja 1000 due to running a "full" Akrapovic exhaust and PCV Auto tune.
 
Revved, I removed both of the plates. To get to the unit, I loosened the electronics panel so I could shove my hands in there.

To be honest, I simply tugged the left one off from the left side and removed the right one easily as it is readily accessible.

To get the vacuum cap on the left side, I put the hose clamp on the cap before working my hand in there and pushing it on. I tightened it with a 1/4" drive socket driver on a universal joint. It is a pain in the ass, completely, but doable.
 
Hi, anyone have completly removal the valve sytem? I try this but i have an engine check alrt! Does a "shunt" to fix this alert exist?
 

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