Some track day prep questions

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spooky said:
I was watching the WSBK and, because of his white boots, it was easy to see what Bautista was doing with his inside foot. He puts it up on the peg and it looks like he does what Corser taught - wedged into the join of the holder and peg, so it’s not flat on the peg but it’s not on the end of the peg.

I looked a bit more online and Jack Miller and many others do the same thing. He’s getting the leg angled out but doing it with the inside of his foot up against the bike on most occasions. When he wants to reach out with the knee he rolls his foot rather than turning it. I guess with these guys they want the inside foot completely out of the way considering how much lean they use.

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I’ve noticed lots doing this. And plenty doing it the way Pani mentioned. There’s more than one way to skin a cat…

Of course, these boys have flexibility and core strength. 🤣 Without that I guess the end of the peg into the outer side of the sole allows you to turn the foot rather than rolling it.

Sitting on the bike and trying both methods, getting the inside foot wedged in actually feels good - very stable and connected to the bike and I can get the knee out as far as I am able. I’m working on hip mobility and that’s the limiting factor.

I suspect that I’m only getting my foot on top of the peg and not up and wedged in fully, again due to hip mobility (on the problem right side it’s actually quite difficult to get the foot up high enough to easily put it in position). I could lower the pegs but if I can improve flexibility then I shouldn’t need to do that.

Hopefully I can manage to get on track somewhere reasonably warm over the off season - it’s horrible to think of not getting out on the bike again until May… 😢
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Can you do it any other way than off your toe? These bikes are hard to get very far inside of due to the tank width. The seat tank interface not so good. This is the one thing I've always struggled with on my V4 SF. I've fixed the geometry, the motor is quasi terrifying, the brakes are pretty awesome but I can't readily move around. On my twin superbikes when i'm riding fast I'm not really sitting. And the seats flat so you're just skimming your ass over the seat. On my V4 SF I can't consistently do this and I keep raising the pegs in an attempt to compensate. Baggers evil twin can spank bagger with baggers own 1198 or the 1098SF when it gets tight and technical.
 
baggerman said:
Can you do it any other way than off your toe? These bikes are hard to get very far inside of due to the tank width. The seat tank interface not so good. This is the one thing I've always struggled with on my V4 SF. I've fixed the geometry, the motor is quasi terrifying, the brakes are pretty awesome but I can't readily move around. On my twin superbikes when i'm riding fast I'm not really sitting. And the seats flat so you're just skimming your ass over the seat. On my V4 SF I can't consistently do this and I keep raising the pegs in an attempt to compensate. Baggers evil twin can spank bagger with baggers own 1198 or the 1098SF when it gets tight and technical.
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It’s primarily the right hip’s lack of mobility that’s the issue - there’s a huge difference between mobility in each side. And the right knee has less flexibility as well, making it harder to get up on the peg on that side. If I can improve flexibility then I expect I’ll be ok. A thinner tank wouldn’t hurt though.

There’s the option to change the bike or change the tank to improve ergonomics, but I still need to sort out the hip and knee flexibility regardless. A RADE tank looks like it could be good. They are local and I can probably sit on one and see what it’s like. No idea where I’d put the data logger though.

I’ll work on flexibility and if I can improve that I might feel that the bike is fine as it is, although a slimmer tank wouldn’t hurt.
 
Incredible racing!

I actually couldn’t spot anything with the legs? What was I looking for?

That was my local circuit for nearly all of my life - lived in Sevenoaks, about 15 minutes away, and remember going to watch Fogarty there with vast numbers of people. Good days.
 
BSB just does traction control in a different way. To say or affirm "they don't ride without all the electronics" is a huge misrepresentation of what's actually going on.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
BSB just does traction control in a different way. To say or affirm "they don't ride without all the electronics" is a huge misrepresentation of what's actually going on.
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yes you're right.
to be very precise they are not allowed to use electornics forming standalone control systems (such as ignition cut traction control or throttle blipper server motors) and all teams have standardized Motec ECU.

They are all over the data of what they allowed ofc

1728887142807.png


 
bp_SFV4 said:
BSB just does traction control in a different way. To say or affirm "they don't ride without all the electronics" is a huge misrepresentation of what's actually going on.
Click to expand...

You mean through mapping?

Obviously I meant without the active electronic rider aids, or maybe not obviously. That was my understanding, but if that’s not correct then I’m happy to be corrected.
 
I use my bike for road and track but honestly 90% track. I get my oem fairings , wrap them in bubble wrap and put them away for when I sell them. I starts doing this after crashing my GSXR in full road trim on the track (hard way to learn)

On my 1198 I purchase second hand scratched OEM fairings painted them and they were then my dual purpose fairings. I did crash with these and repaired what I could repainted and kept using them.

On my V4 I purchased the Ducati race fairings which are unpainted OEM fairings , painted them myself and they will stay on the bike until I sell it or crash it.

Personally If I had an SP, I would do this to avoid the risk of damaging the beautiful bodywork on track.

But this may not work for everyone. Particularly if you only do the odd track day.

I suggest tire warmers for track work for any tyres. There is nothing to lose, you go out knowing your tires are up to temp and at the correct pressures. At our track days everyone who is a regular uses them regardless of the tyres.

But each to their own on this.

When I started running warmers I got much better tire life out of treaded tyres because most of the wear was when they were still cold and there were not heat cycling so much. and got more value from my track sessions as I was not waiting for 2or 3 laps to get to temp. Not its a few corners to warm the brakes then go for its

I now run slicks so for me they are mandatory.

And I agree about coaching, the money spent on coaching made more difference to me than any modification.

on the weeneked I did a track day and one of the experienced race guys now has a very tidy 1098 and I hate to admit it but I could not get within 1/2 second of him on my V4 It’s 90% rider and 10% bike!
 
yoshiboldor said:
I use my bike for road and track but honestly 90% track. I get my oem fairings , wrap them in bubble wrap and put them away for when I sell them. I starts doing this after crashing my GSXR in full road trim on the track (hard way to learn)

On my 1198 I purchase second hand scratched OEM fairings painted them and they were then my dual purpose fairings. I did crash with these and repaired what I could repainted and kept using them.

On my V4 I purchased the Ducati race fairings which are unpainted OEM fairings , painted them myself and they will stay on the bike until I sell it or crash it.

Personally If I had an SP, I would do this to avoid the risk of damaging the beautiful bodywork on track.

But this may not work for everyone. Particularly if you only do the odd track day.

I suggest tire warmers for track work for any tyres. There is nothing to lose, you go out knowing your tires are up to temp and at the correct pressures. At our track days everyone who is a regular uses them regardless of the tyres.

But each to their own on this.

When I started running warmers I got much better tire life out of treaded tyres because most of the wear was when they were still cold and there were not heat cycling so much. and got more value from my track sessions as I was not waiting for 2or 3 laps to get to temp. Not its a few corners to warm the brakes then go for its

I now run slicks so for me they are mandatory.

And I agree about coaching, the money spent on coaching made more difference to me than any modification.

on the weeneked I did a track day and one of the experienced race guys now has a very tidy 1098 and I hate to admit it but I could not get within 1/2 second of him on my V4 It’s 90% rider and 10% bike!
Click to expand...
The 1098's will get off a corner pretty good. I have one and a V4. They're about the same displacement, the 1098 is gruntier until about 6500 then they're about the same until 9500 after which the V4 adds 50 HP and the 1098 needs another gear. I can see it, you're closing on the straights and he's getting away in the twisty bits. I also have an 1198, all I can say is my evil twin could readily spank me if he was on the 1198 and I was on the V4SF.
 
SuperDomestique said:
It is possible to over cook your tires if you don’t know what you’re doing or accidentally leave them on too long. Street Pirelli SC will be greasy on anything but the lowest setting
Click to expand...
The temps we get on track with an SC are way higher than I would get on the warmer?
 

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