Securing to a trailer/van, and just track use in general

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I don't know if using those crate brackets makes sense. If your wheelbase changed for any reason, chain adjustment, setup etc., they wouldn't line up anymore.

I think he’s just putting the shipping restraint rod through the axle, and then securing straps to the rod ends - brackets don’t seem to be used.
 
The Pit-Bull trailer restraint is a great system because of its quality but more importantly about "where" it holds the bike in place. However, it's a one-trick pony.
A quality wheel chock is more versatile where it can be used in the trailer as well as the garage and the track.
The drawback is having to use straps. Where you use the straps is key.
Always tie-down from the UN-SPRUNG portion whenever possible. Be that a car or a bike.
Here's what I'm talking about:

View attachment 56084

View attachment 56085
Ducati fasten their bikes for transport to the un-sprung portion as shown here:
There's the old adage: Watch What They DO! (NOT What They SAY…)
View attachment 56086

View attachment 56087

Guy, just go to your local Ducati dealer and ask for the axle rods and bushings which holds the bike in place within the crate. They will give them to you free as they will trash them with the rest of the crate.

All you need to get are two extra nuts and a couple of large washers to hold your straps in place.
You'll never have to worry about your straps getting loose or over-compressing your suspension.

View attachment 56089

Speaking to my local Duc dealer now. How are the straps being secured to those axle rods?
 
I think he’s just putting the shipping restraint rod through the axle, and then securing straps to the rod ends - brackets don’t seem to be used.

I don’t get why that would be necessary. If you’re using a Baxley chock, use one of their bolt down kits and two straps with a restraint that goes on the rear tire.

I agree with the part about strapping to unsprung components. If you use back bolt down kit, it unbolt from the top side. You could easily unbolted and move it to the paddock or wherever you need it. You would also only need two straps with this set up.
 
I don’t get why that would be necessary. If you’re using a Baxley chock, use one of their bolt down kits and two straps with a restraint that goes on the rear tire.

I agree with the part about strapping to unsprung components. If you use back bolt down kit, it unbolt from the top side. You could easily unbolted and move it to the paddock or wherever you need it. You would also only need two straps with this set up.

I’m not intending to assert that’s it’s necessary or not. :)

Seems to me it’s just a relatively easy way to mimick the factory shipping setup using rods through the axles and then straps to anchor points instead of brackets fixed to a pallet.
 
The advantage of the factory crate system seems to be the use of the through bolts for the axles with the brackets. I'm not sure one without the other makes sense if you're using a Baxley.
 
The advantage of the factory crate system seems to be the use of the through bolts for the axles with the brackets. I'm not sure one without the other makes sense if you're using a Baxley.

Advantage is using through bolts and brackets together - agreed.

You previously said:

“I don’t get why that would be necessary. If you’re using a Baxley chock, use one of their bolt down kits and two straps with a restraint that goes on the rear tire.”

So, you’re recommending:
1. The Baxley chock
2. The bolt down kit
3. Two straps
4. A rear tire restraint

The other dude is recommending:
1. Two through bolts
2. Four straps

Maybe there’s something I’m not considering, but they seem like relatively similar effort to me.
 
Advantage is using through bolts and brackets together - agreed.

You previously said:

“I don’t get why that would be necessary. If you’re using a Baxley chock, use one of their bolt down kits and two straps with a restraint that goes on the rear tire.”

So, you’re recommending:
1. The Baxley chock
2. The bolt down kit
3. Two straps
4. A rear tire restraint

The other dude is recommending:
1. Two through bolts
2. Four straps

Maybe there’s something I’m not considering, but they seem like relatively similar effort to me.

He is using a Baxley and the tying the rear axle rearward, bars downward. In Baxleys instructions, they write to tie the rear of the bike forward and outward. Baxley’s instructions also show the tie down straps on the rear pegs. I think the tire strap is a better option as it’s unsprung and accomplishes the same thing; pulling the bike into the chock and fixing the posistion of the rear tire. I also like this option as it’s completely universal. You could even use the alternate position on the chock with a 19” wheel.
 
Speaking to my local Duc dealer now. How are the straps being secured to those axle rods?

The timing is good as these photos are a few hours old as I just trailered the bike for a belt change. The straps are sandwiched between two large washers.
Also see the Monster photos previously posted.
I use the large bars fore and aft which I had made prior but I was also given a set of axle rods and bushings from my friendly dealer which are shown here.
IMG_20240821_1258587.jpg

Screenshot from 2024-08-21 17-31-32.png
 
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I’d throw a U-Haul hitch on that CRV. Doesn’t look like you have to cut anything and looks easy to uninstall if needed



My interneting skills are apparently horrible as I didn't come across this. Seriously wondering who's kit this is and why I didn't come across it.

The cargo van is gonna cost me $180. Two track days and this should pay for itself I guess.
 
I don’t get why that would be necessary. If you’re using a Baxley chock, use one of their bolt down kits and two straps with a restraint that goes on the rear tire.

I agree with the part about strapping to unsprung components. If you use back bolt down kit, it unbolt from the top side. You could easily unbolted and move it to the paddock or wherever you need it. You would also only need two straps with this set up.

That is very true. I have two Baxley Wheel Chocks and two bolt-down kits also but I have yet to install them in the trailer only because I have not gotten a "Round Tuit".
Ideally, I want to position the two wheel chocks in the trailer to load two bikes at once.
 
I was even thinking the chock placement is only limited to how many bolt down kits you wanted to buy. You could have different configurations for number of bikes being hauled or the size of the bike.
 
I was even thinking the chock placement is only limited to how many bolt down kits you wanted to buy. You could have different configurations for number of bikes being hauled or the size of the bike.

Absolutely. One bike in a trailer is a no-brainer. Two bikes in the same trailer raises the complexity multiple times as you have to account for trailer width and length, handlebar clearance, bike roll to clear the tanks as just a few issues I can think of.
 
Ok last one (from me, I promise): trailer is a no-go. Just dropped by my local UHaul and they confirmed, their kit and all others for my CRV *do* require cutting and was edited out of marketing material. On the bright side, I saw the tie-down points in van and also made sure my ramps will fit the new cargo vans. On an even brighter note, I scored a new-but-blemished Laguna Seca 5 *and* Bell Race Star Flex DLX off Revzilla both for more than half off and both in my size! Verified fit w/ a stand alone back protector today at a local Dainese store.

Question about riding modes: Should I start the day in Wet/Rain mode? I read/heard that some riding schools will do this and go through the modes as riders progress. Or should I leave it in sport and bump up the nannies?
 
All this dribble about trailering… This is a Ducati forum not a trailer forum! Please take your trailer hard ons to the trailer forums! 😂
Why don't you go back, put your glasses on and read the topic of this thread and ....-on elsewhere if you don't like it.
 
Absolutely. One bike in a trailer is a no-brainer. Two bikes in the same trailer raises the complexity multiple times as you have to account for trailer width and length, handlebar clearance, bike roll to clear the tanks as just a few issues I can think of.

The trailer I’m going to be towing is a 6’x14’ tandem axle with brakes. With how big it is, I wonder if I’d even need to be concerned all that much with centering one bike if hauling one instead of two. The trailer is 1500 lbs empty. I don’t think a 450lb bike is going to upset it too much. Forward of the axles for sure though.

Question about riding modes: Should I start the day in Wet/Rain mode? I read/heard that some riding schools will do this and go through the modes as riders progress. Or should I leave it in sport and bump up the nannies?

I’d set the reload to my weight without gear and ride in sport with the default settings and adjust as needed.
 
The trailer I’m going to be towing is a 6’x14’ tandem axle with brakes. With how big it is, I wonder if I’d even need to be concerned all that much with centering one bike if hauling one instead of two. The trailer is 1500 lbs empty. I don’t think a 450lb bike is going to upset it too much. Forward of the axles for sure though.



I’d set the reload to my weight without gear and ride in sport with the default settings and adjust as needed.

Was very lucky, the PO of the bike had it setup to his weight, which is the same as me! Haven't touched it since getting the bike but frankly haven't ridden it to the point where I'd know the difference.
 
The trailer I’m going to be towing is a 6’x14’ tandem axle with brakes. With how big it is, I wonder if I’d even need to be concerned all that much with centering one bike if hauling one instead of two. The trailer is 1500 lbs empty. I don’t think a 450lb bike is going to upset it too much. Forward of the axles for sure though.
That's a big trailer. No problem with space within to stagger the bikes and load given the double axle.
In-fact if there's a problem, it would be one that most of us would like.
 

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