Stripped bolt holes for clutch cover - Helicoil?

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DucatiBiscotti

Joined
Jan 27, 2019
Messages
3
Location
CA
While tightening down my clutch cover guard, thought the clicking sounds were from the torque wrench, set to 11nm. Nope, stripped the thread holes of the top 4 holes holding the clutch cover on. Felt like I barely applied any pressure.

So now I’m faced with:


  • Replacing the clutch housing

  • helicoil

  • Time certs

  • Other? (I’ve seen solutions from copper wires in the holes to jbweld as it’s not a load bearing part, but I’m not sure of its longevity or adherence to magnesium)

It’d be great to hear some opinions from here before I approach a couple local shops with this issue.
 
If the T wrench is indeed calibrated correctly 11nm should not have resulted in the threads pulling out. You stated "clutch cover guard" did this require the use of longer fasteners? If it did and you installed the stock length fastener its possible that you stripped the threads simply because of lack of grip area. Either way, damage is done. Replace the cover. Im not sure you have enough material in the bolt hole (M6 is stock) to go to the next size which is an M8. Technically, M7 is the next size but I do not believe the Helicoil set goes M6 to M7 as there is probably not enough material. Anyhow, M8 is going to be too large and you would need some way of precision drilling and tapping new holes. The other alternatives are silly. You need the proper grip length in magnesium for sure. Torque values are out the window if the grip length is compromised. I would head to the dealer and get out the checkbook. Its a fairly easy procedure.
 
Just get helicoil for m6,shouldnt be a problem. I've done this about 10 times on different places on my bike,dont know what the hell is going on but especially the magnesium seems super fragile. The new helicoil threads gives a much safer feel.
 
I have had the clutch cover off at least 20 times playing with different clutches and disc combos. Never came close to stripping a hole at 13nm. Zelnik I'm buying you a new torque wrench for Christmas my friend.
 
Well the next larger size in an M7x1.0. If he pulled the threads out, the M7 might not have enough thread depth to make it mechanically correct but it might work.
 
I did the same when I replaced the clutch slave. My dealer refused to attempt to fix, but they did give me a good reference. Jim did a great job for me.

Jim's Tap Extracting
535 W. 172nd St
Gardena, CA 90248
310-344-0115

If your in the LA area I recommend you give him a call.
 
Thanks all for the advice. Brought it to a local ducati specialist and he is OK with the heli-coil approach.

Few things regarding the torque wrench I was using, for anyone who finds this thread in the future: It was set to 13.5nm (sorry, not 11nm, as I should have followed), which was the lowest the 10-100 ft/lb could go, so that was mistake #1. I hear the extreme ends of a torque wrench aren't as accurate.

Mistake #2, the torque wrench was not stored at its lowest setting. Never knew this was an issue until now.

Mistake #3, not my torque wrench. The clicking mechanism was so soft I didn't even feel it and shot right past it.

I have since ordered a new, more appropriate, torque wrench and plan to do the stator (?) cover side when I get the bike back. Fingers crossed I don't f it up again.
 
I want a new torque wrench...what's the baddest one out there? (and by bad I mean good...as the kid's say)
 
stealthblack said:
I exclusively use CDI (Snap-On Industrial Brand) and Proxxon.

Amazon carries CDI
RevZilla carries Proxxon
Click to expand...

I've got a CDI also. Its a great torque wrench. 10-60nm. I keep it in the kitchen next to the bread box to keep it out of the temperature swings of the garage. lol
 
DucatiBiscotti said:
Thanks all for the advice. Brought it to a local ducati specialist and he is OK with the heli-coil approach.

Few things regarding the torque wrench I was using, for anyone who finds this thread in the future: It was set to 13.5nm (sorry, not 11nm, as I should have followed), which was the lowest the 10-100 ft/lb could go, so that was mistake #1. I hear the extreme ends of a torque wrench aren't as accurate.

Mistake #2, the torque wrench was not stored at its lowest setting. Never knew this was an issue until now.

Mistake #3, not my torque wrench. The clicking mechanism was so soft I didn't even feel it and shot right past it.

I have since ordered a new, more appropriate, torque wrench and plan to do the stator (?) cover side when I get the bike back. Fingers crossed I don't f it up again.
Click to expand...

Well, just chalk that one up to lesson learned.
 
MMC said:
I want a new torque wrench...what's the baddest one out there? (and by bad I mean good...as the kid's say)
Click to expand...

I have a Hazet 6109-2 CT. It is 4 to 40 nm range and the release accuracy is +/- 2%. I have had it for a couple years now and works well for most of the torque range found on the 1199. They are a little more expensive but a quality tool. Made in Germany.
 
PROTO
3/8" Fixed Electronic Torque Wrench, Torque Range (Ft.-Lb.): 5 to 99.5
Item # 53JT45
Mfr. Model # J6012E

$520.00

PROTO
1/4" Fixed Electronic Torque Wrench, Torque Range (Ft.-Lb.): 2.1 to 20.8
Item # 36WX46
Mfr. Model # JH4-250RB

$560.00

Get both of these any you're good to go.
 
DucatiBiscotti said:
While tightening down my clutch cover guard, thought the clicking sounds were from the torque wrench, set to 11nm. Nope, stripped the thread holes of the top 4 holes holding the clutch cover on. Felt like I barely applied any pressure.

So now I’m faced with:


  • Replacing the clutch housing

  • helicoil

  • Time certs

  • Other? (I’ve seen solutions from copper wires in the holes to jbweld as it’s not a load bearing part, but I’m not sure of its longevity or adherence to magnesium)

It’d be great to hear some opinions from here before I approach a couple local shops with this issue.
Click to expand...

The V4 cover has an 'o'-ring seal and only requires 3nm - 3.5nm.........
 
Last edited:
Mutt1979 said:
The V4 cover has an 'o'-ring seal and only requires 3nm - 3.5nm.........
Click to expand...

There is a handy screw driver you can buy from PB Swiss tools which does 1nm to 5nm. Great for small bolts and screw like the fairing screws. I have never lost a fairing screw after buying it.
 

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