Sudden RPM drop and Downshifting issue.

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Just had the DRLs act like they were gonna turn off and on.
Likely just a power draw thing.

If you have all of the parts for the OEM rearsets, at least for the left one, you may consider re-installing it and testing.

The length is...

1737695280619.png
 
That length is only really valid with the complete OEM rearsets. Same with the measurement in the screenshots for the DP/Rizoma rearsets.
 
I'd say the length is subjective, because that will change with preferred lever position for you.
What is very important no matter the shift rod length or type if rearset is that the linkage/shift arm interface maintain a 90 degree angle at rest- this provides the best leverage at the fulcrum.
In the pic, it appears to be a more obtuse angle, so you aren't maximizing the ability of the lever to transfer movement to the shift arm, which means inconsistent pressure for gear changes even if the qs itself is cutting/blipping.
Racetorx also makes a support that helps by adding a brace toward the outboard side of the shift shaft, eliminates a bunch of the flex which helps sharpen the response
 
With the DP rearsets, you can change the lever position regardless of the length of the rod. Problem being, the OP isn't using that part since the lever is wrong. For GP shift, the top hole would be on the bottom since that parts gets flipped.

The top hole is where the rod attaches, and middle is the pivot point. The lever position can be changed by adjusting it to the -1/3, = and +1/3 position. The relationship of the shift rod to the pivot point doesn't change.

1737734436774.png
 
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I'd say the length is subjective, because that will change with preferred lever position for you.
What is very important no matter the shift rod length or type if rearset is that the linkage/shift arm interface maintain a 90 degree angle at rest- this provides the best leverage at the fulcrum.
In the pic, it appears to be a more obtuse angle, so you aren't maximizing the ability of the lever to transfer movement to the shift arm, which means inconsistent pressure for gear changes even if the qs itself is cutting/blipping.
Racetorx also makes a support that helps by adding a brace toward the outboard side of the shift shaft, eliminates a bunch of the flex which helps sharpen the response
so would you guys say that this is related to the shifter?
 
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