Thoughts on Impact/Torque driver for wheel nuts?

Alkhater

Alkhater

Joined Oct 2020
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Any thoughts or opinions on using an Impact/Torque driver to tighten wheels nuts vs torque wrench?

Trying to determine what the most practical way is to do wheel/sprocket swaps is.

I'm not sure how accurate these drivers are and the ones I've found aren't very adjustable... 200Nm or 250Nm, nothing in between (target is 230Nm).

I know using a torque wrench is probably more correct but the ease of use and relative cost are making me consider a cordless driver since otherwise I'd need a both a torque wrench and a breaker bar.
 
Impact to remove, torque wrench to tighten. I bought a corded Harbor Freight 1/2" impact that has twisted everything off that I have needed it to.

If we are talking rear wheel nut, an impact is more useful that an extended break bar. Be sure to grease the threads.
 
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thoughts:
if you get, with experience and "feeling" something around 200 with a impact driver,
you can also do this with a breaker bar. better.
A lever is the most important special tool of the mechanic.
You have to have it anyway.
Also the impact driver. Sometimes it's the only, often the best way, to get the job done.
loosening a clutch for example.
your choice.
in the shop(that i know), they fasten it with 2300 it think, for sure with the impact driver.
For sure without torque wrench.
So...what. if the spring lift off because the nut rotates, it's too loose.
if you don't get it off with a 2 1/2 feet lever or half the voltage or pressure, it's too firm.

A click makes you feel better, but sometimes this is just a feeling.
really, i've seen it when it was the audible noise when the brain switch off.
 
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I use this

DeWalt DCF899P2 Cordless Impact Wrench, 1/2in. Drive, 18V, Brushless, 950Nm Max. Torque, 2 x 5.0Ah Batteries DCF899P2-GB | Cromwell Tools

This 18V impact wrench features the latest generation XR 5.0Ah Li-Ion battery technology, ensuring it performs better for longer. The powerful fan cooled motor delivers up to 950Nm DCF899P2-GB | Cromwell Tools
www.cromwell.co.uk www.cromwell.co.uk

that said you have to be gentle with them in both undoing and doing up. Ive used it that much now that I can tell how much to tighten the nut and be very close to the torque which I confirm the final bit with the torque bar,
 
andyb said:
I use this

DeWalt DCF899P2 Cordless Impact Wrench, 1/2in. Drive, 18V, Brushless, 950Nm Max. Torque, 2 x 5.0Ah Batteries DCF899P2-GB | Cromwell Tools

This 18V impact wrench features the latest generation XR 5.0Ah Li-Ion battery technology, ensuring it performs better for longer. The powerful fan cooled motor delivers up to 950Nm DCF899P2-GB | Cromwell Tools
www.cromwell.co.uk www.cromwell.co.uk

that said you have to be gentle with them in both undoing and doing up. Ive used it that much now that I can tell how much to tighten the nut and be very close to the torque which I confirm the final bit with the torque bar,
Click to expand...

Does it have a 230Nm setting or do you just ball park it?

I’m looking at this… it does 250Nm on its lowest setting. Would that be too much?
www.bosch-professional.com

GDS 18V-450 PC Cordless Impact Wrench | Bosch Professional

GDS 18V-450 PC Cordless impact drivers/wrenches | Two default screw modes for consistent driving. Each mode can be adjusted and individualised via the Bosch Toolbox App, Powerful 450 Nm tightening and 800 Nm breakaway torque performance, Versatile three-speed/torque settings for more flexibility...
www.bosch-professional.com www.bosch-professional.com

It would be cheaper and easier to use than a torque wrench and breaker bar set.
 
You're allowed 5% plus or minus the final torque per the service manual as the rear nut is a "*dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque tolerance must be Nm ±5%" of 230nm, the max torque allowed on the rear wheel nut is 241.5nm

230nm min is 2069 in-lbf
241nm max is 2133 in-lbf
250nm over-torque is 2212 in-lbf
Nothing on the rear assembly should be torqued to "2300 in the shop"

Eat your Wheaties and quit being lazy, you can use a speed handle to set the wheel and do final torque with a torque wrench. You'll get a much better feel of the cone assembly seating and you'll know it's correct rather than wailing on an impact and not knowing what you're doing to the interior assembly
 
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I have decided to eventually get a torque wrench and breaker bar.

But thanks.
 
chris16 said:
thoughts:
if you get, with experience and "feeling" something around 200 with a impact driver,
you can also do this with a breaker bar. better.
A lever is the most important special tool of the mechanic.
You have to have it anyway.
Also the impact driver. Sometimes it's the only, often the best way, to get the job done.
loosening a clutch for example.
your choice.
in the shop(that i know), they fasten it with 2300 it think, for sure with the impact driver.
For sure without torque wrench.
So...what. if the spring lift off because the nut rotates, it's too loose.
if you don't get it off with a 2 1/2 feet lever or half the voltage or pressure, it's too firm.

A click makes you feel better, but sometimes this is just a feeling.
really, i've seen it when it was the audible noise when the brain switch off.
Click to expand...

Somewhere the engineer who designed the rear hub assembly is crying. Grease and torque the nuts.
 
andyb said:
I use this

DeWalt DCF899P2 Cordless Impact Wrench, 1/2in. Drive, 18V, Brushless, 950Nm Max. Torque, 2 x 5.0Ah Batteries DCF899P2-GB | Cromwell Tools

This 18V impact wrench features the latest generation XR 5.0Ah Li-Ion battery technology, ensuring it performs better for longer. The powerful fan cooled motor delivers up to 950Nm DCF899P2-GB | Cromwell Tools
www.cromwell.co.uk www.cromwell.co.uk

that said you have to be gentle with them in both undoing and doing up. Ive used it that much now that I can tell how much to tighten the nut and be very close to the torque which I confirm the final bit with the torque bar,
Click to expand...

It's not rocket science, it's Andy's finesse
 
Go check out that 5K tool that you can buy for center lock nut Porsches….or was it 10k?
 
But I don't think the porsche tool saves the torque settings that you can program yourself for each individual bolt or nut and tell you it's torqued like SnapOn. You'd only be paying $1k for the torque wrench, of course bought at the same time as the .032 DMC safety cable tool ;)
Screenshot 2023-09-30 145046.jpg
 
DCPanni said:
Go check out that 5K tool that you can buy for center lock nut Porsches….or was it 10k?
Click to expand...

Lol, yes I came across that somewhere.

I honestly would not question these options if time and budget were of no concern.

I’ve decided to either get a breaker bar or a 200Nm impact driver to loosen and tighten… plus a torque wrench for final setting.

I’ll see what I can find locally.
 
Impacts guns have there place but when do you know if they're accurate. With a torque wrench. If you don't check is it ok? That tube is i expect high tensile with a short span to yield. Torque it.
 
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baggerman said:
Impacts guns have there place but when do you know if they're accurate. With a torque wrench. If you don't check is it ok? That tube is i expect high tensile with a short span to yield. Torque it.
Click to expand...

Yes, I’m not omitting the use of a torque wrench.
 
I just bought a long breaker bar. I made small paint stripes on the hub and wheel. Then I just used the breaker bar to set it to my paint marks when I put it back on. It didn't take as much effort as you would think to get 230 N/m. But I also wasn't switching wheels or rims.
 
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As for me I'll assemble the whole bike without a torque wrench (rod bolts by stretch, that ducati torque the nut and then pull it up some more bugs me) but I use a torque wrench on the axles. it must be a phobia. What's the name of the fear of having the wheels of your motorcycle fall off? Wheelinducedcrashaphobia?
 
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