V2 Addons

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Made some changes, getting carbon fiber lever guards instead of bar ends. Seems like a two in one solution. Finally had the throttle spacers install, a MUST HAVE.. I rode in 100 degree weather yesterday from Simi Valley down to LA and was dying from the heat. Heat shield is on the list as well. Any recommendations out there?

  1. NRC tidy tail (Installed)
  2. R&G Dashboard screen protector kit
  3. R&G radiator guard
  4. R&G carbon fiber tank sliders
  5. R&G fork protectors
  6. R&G bar ends (Removed) decided on carbon fiber lever guards
  7. R &G carbon fiber tail sliders
  8. Throttle spacers-purchased on this forum (Installed)
  9. Brake reservoir cover (installed) - dealer gave me one for free - amazon link for purchase
  10. Heat shield (TBD)
  11. Rear stand (TBD)
  12. Slip on exhaust (TBD)

Suggestions IMHO:
+ Add a front stand to your list. It will allow you to remove the front wheel for tire changes, facilitate rim cleaning, and lifting your bike for longer term storage.
- Delete the slip-on which is a complete waste of money. With the new V2 Cat box, a slip-on will add noting to sound or performance. Your choice is either go Full-System Akra Exhaust or leave it stock.
 
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Suggestions IMHO:
+ Add a front stand to your list. It will allow you to remove the front wheel for tire changes, facilitate rim cleaning, and lifting your bike for longer term storage.
- Delete the slip-on which is a complete waste of money. With the new V2 Cat box, a slip-on will add noting to sound or performance. Your choice is either go Full-System Akra Exhaust or leave it stock.

Appreciate the feedback.
 
About the exhaust:
If it's sound you're looking for, be patient. Contrary to the 959, the new V2's cat box seems like a good candidate for coring.
It's only a question of time before you see a thread on that topic. Coring will add sound and a bit of performance provided that you combine it with a Rapidbike fuel controller.
Additionally, this is a lot cheaper than spending $5000 on a Full Akra.
 
i am a puss and try to ride between 70 and 80. warm enough to heat up the tire but not cook me.

its a 20 degree temperature drop going up 4000'. cools the tire off like the rain so one needs to back off a notch but, as a bonus, it isn't muggy.

MC had a video on these things. chillers
 
About the exhaust:
If it's sound you're looking for, be patient. Contrary to the 959, the new V2's cat box seems like a good candidate for coring.
It's only a question of time before you see a thread on that topic. Coring will add sound and a bit of performance provided that you combine it with a Rapidbike fuel controller.
Additionally, this is a lot cheaper than spending $5000 on a Full Akra.
I started a thread for the cored stock V2 exhaust here. Mine is getting done right now by @Phl on these boards
 
i am a puss and try to ride between 70 and 80. warm enough to heat up the tire but not cook me.

I'm a lot like that as well. Today here in Ottawa it was +34c (about 94F) plus the sun plus humidity.
Too hot for riding with gear and I only ride with gear. I went boating instead.
 
Installed the Evo lever guards this am. Quality / feel are good, wished they were glossy instead of matte but can’t complain for the price. Install was a breeze.

Evotech brake /clutch levers guard set

Really wanted the RG guard because of the carbon fiber but they only make them for the brake side. I wanted both sides for SoCal lane splitting.
 

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Go easy on the bling there cowboy. LOL
Save some money for required track gear:
Racing Boots, Gauntlets, L2 Back/Chest Vest, Onezy or Two Piece Racing Leathers with 270 zipper and base layer. California Superbike School. Tires, Gas, Travel and Lodging, Trailer and Track-side necessities...
Did I mention tires?
 
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Go easy on the bling there cowboy. LOL
Save some money for required track gear:
Racing Boots, Gauntlets, L2 Back/Chest Vest, Onezy or Two Piece Racing Leathers with 270 zipper and base layer. California Superbike School. Tires, Gas, Travel and Lodging, Trailer and Track-side necessities...
Did I mention tires?

Lol, I’m not a tracker. I enjoy riding open roads. Maybe I’ll try it one day, if I do it’s back to the 300cc and working my way up.
 
Almost forgot the most important accessories (if you don't have them):
36mm Socket
Breaker bar
Pit-Bull front and rear stands (don't go cheap and they don't depreciate much). Unless you plan on servicing your forks, you don't need the front head-lift option (which you can buy later).
The stands will pay for themselves in two tire changes.

it should be obvious but which rear stand for the V2? I can’t tell which pit bull is right for the single sided swing arm. TIA.
 
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Great thanks! Do you think the single pin stand is sufficient for wheel/chain cleaning? I don't expect to do much more than that.
Yes. the sprocket side pin is sufficient for 99% of the need. I.e. chain cleaning, adjustment and wheel cleaning and removal.
I purchased both pins in 2016 and have yet to use the other which you would use to remove the sprocket or change the chain.
You can always buy the extra pin later.
 
my plan was to purchase the 2nd pin when i eventually purchase the front stand. cleaning the front wheel is cumbersome on the spokes.

ordered a grease ninja to save on lube. HD007 is the hdesa part number for the eccentric wrench.
 
my plan was to purchase the 2nd pin when i eventually purchase the front stand. cleaning the front wheel is cumbersome on the spokes.

ordered a grease ninja to save on lube. HD007 is the hdesa part number for the eccentric wrench.

I have two comments here that may be useful:
A front stand is a must both for wheel removal, cleaning and winter storage if applicable.
Even top of the line Pit-Bull stands will pay for themselves in two sets of tire changes as you don't have to bring the bike to your dealer and pay him to remove the wheels.
The pit-bull front comes in two versions: Hybrid Dual Lift which has the head lift attachment and one without.
Unless you intend to adjust or remove your forks you really don't need the head piece. You can also buy it later.
20200512_152708-1.jpg

About the chain:
Chain lube topic is polarized between old school and new school.
Modern chains don't need lube for lubrication like the older chains as they have internal embedded grease. They only require a micro film of oil to prevent rust and keep the rubber seals moist and fresh. However, it requires frequent cleaning as it's the road grime that erodes the chain. A modern chain needs cleaning to last longer. Less lube is better than too much. In fact, the least the better. A fully greased chain will just invite road grime. Sand, dirt and road contaminant are the enemy #1 of a chain, not water. If you keep it clean, it will last a lot longer and your bike will stay cleaner longer as well.

Also, keep it simple and fast. Each night after you removed the bugs with a hot water shammy, clean the chain too. "Hand spin" a rag doused with a mild de-greaser such as Simple Green around your chain a few times, wipe it dry, repeat with a third rag that has some lube on it. I use motor oil. Save those three rags for the next day. It's only a two minute job and it will always look new.

Monster Rear Sprocket.JPG20200427_104628-1.jpg
 
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agreed. this is a totally neglected 520 with only 6k miles. o-rings damaged by the road grit then the lube was compromised by the rain.

knotty to say the least.520w6k.jpg
 

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