V2 as a track bike

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Hey all.

I recently blew the engine in my MV Agusta F3 675 track bike and now looking to replace instead of rebuilding it. It was a great bike, and ran completely faultlessly until some of the clutch basket went for a ride around the engine.

Currently eyeing up a decent deal on a 2021 V2, cheaper than equivalent R6/Cbr600rr's where I live. Also will consider 899 or 959's too.

Just have a few questions about them.
  1. How reliable are they as a track bike? Fast group rider, no interest in racing
  2. Do they require any mods, or good to go straight out of the box? Eg; do they have overheating issues and require bigger rads or anything?
  3. They are standard with quickshifter and autoblipper?
  4. What are the tuning options if you get an exhuast?
I'm looking to start with slicks only and then slowly mod it from there as I go and get more comfortable on it. It will be a 100% track use only bike, my road bike is a 1098s streetfighter.
 
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dude your gonna love that bike on the track! The V2 is vastly superior to the 959, your gonna love the electronics package.

1 - i'd say more so than the superbikes (V4/1199/1299).
2 - required for track, no! But you'll want some rearsets to get your feet higher and further back. Yes its hot as hell, same as all the current Ducati sport bikes, but youll never notice on track man. No need for upgraded radiators.
3 - yes and yes
4 - lots of hand held devices out there for canned tunes, and some of them offer remote tuning like SLR down in Florida (thats who i used), there are several tuners on this site as well, plenty of options. Exhaust wise there are only a couple, and all of them super expensive. I'd get lighter forged wheels from any of the ducati S models, then tune it, then exhuast and tune it again. Tune and Wheels were the biggest upgrades for me.

IF your exp. track rider, sure jump on them slicks...if your new/learning, it will be hard to keep them up to temp at novice/INT speeds. Get some Rosso Corsa 2's OR 4's, youll be fine.

good luck and go grab that damn V2 man, youll love it.

JAG
 
Cheers for the reply.

Good call on the rearsets, its usually the first thing I do too. Sounds like the V2 may be the way to go then over the 959 with all its extra goodies. Ride slicks now, and ride in the fast group so no issues there.
 
Great thread / questions.

(going to beat a dead horse here so pardon me)

About the wheels- only 6" rears are available in the forged aluminum. From what I've seen posted, looks like they are a direct bolt on. Not sure if the 190/55 profile changes the handling much compared to the 180/60

How about the front wheel? I've seen posts saying it is a direct fit but I've also seen posts saying it needs new spacers.How about the brake rotors? Do you transfer them over from the V2?
 
@F3BobaFett I’m on a similar journey. Bought a 21 PV2 in June of last year and used it stock for rest of the year.

I have received the Arrow exhaust, sprint filter, and BrenTuner. Planning to get that all installed soon. Looking at Woodcraft rearsets (GP shift) but haven’t pulled the trigger. They may come after an Aim Solo2.

Also thinking of slicks, which mean heaters and generator. Not sure I’m ready for all that yet.

I have not found the heat to be an issue (track). But the standard ECU flash does seem to have issues with “hot starts” (does not want to start, but always has, so far). Several other V2 owners have mentioned it. Hoping/expecting the BrenTune to address that.

This will only be my 3rd season of track and only a couple weekends with the fast guys so far. Sounds like you may have more experience.

Since you have a Streetfighter for the road, I assume you know about the throttle spacer. That was the first thing I do to each Ducati I buy.
 
Great thread / questions.

(going to beat a dead horse here so pardon me)

About the wheels- only 6" rears are available in the forged aluminum. From what I've seen posted, looks like they are a direct bolt on. Not sure if the 190/55 profile changes the handling much compared to the 180/60

How about the front wheel? I've seen posts saying it is a direct fit but I've also seen posts saying it needs new spacers.How about the brake rotors? Do you transfer them over from the V2?

OZ make a 5.5 rear for the V2 in forged aluminium, wrs have them.
 
Hey all.

I recently blew the engine in my MV Agusta F3 675 track bike and now looking to replace instead of rebuilding it. It was a great bike, and ran completely faultlessly until some of the clutch basket went for a ride around the engine.

Currently eyeing up a decent deal on a 2021 V2, cheaper than equivalent R6/Cbr600rr's where I live. Also will consider 899 or 959's too.

Just have a few questions about them.
  1. How reliable are they as a track bike? Fast group rider, no interest in racing
  2. Do they require any mods, or good to go straight out of the box? Eg; do they have overheating issues and require bigger rads or anything?
  3. They are standard with quickshifter and autoblipper?
  4. What are the tuning options if you get an exhuast?
I'm looking to start with slicks only and then slowly mod it from there as I go and get more comfortable on it. It will be a 100% track use only bike, my road bike is a 1098s streetfighter.

Give ben a call from cube Moto in Queensland, he's putting a few together and really knows them well.
 
@F3BobaFett I’m on a similar journey. Bought a 21 PV2 in June of last year and used it stock for rest of the year.

I have received the Arrow exhaust, sprint filter, and BrenTuner. Planning to get that all installed soon. Looking at Woodcraft rearsets (GP shift) but haven’t pulled the trigger. They may come after an Aim Solo2.

Also thinking of slicks, which mean heaters and generator. Not sure I’m ready for all that yet.

I have not found the heat to be an issue (track). But the standard ECU flash does seem to have issues with “hot starts” (does not want to start, but always has, so far). Several other V2 owners have mentioned it. Hoping/expecting the BrenTune to address that.

This will only be my 3rd season of track and only a couple weekends with the fast guys so far. Sounds like you may have more experience.

Since you have a Streetfighter for the road, I assume you know about the throttle spacer. That was the first thing I do to each Ducati I buy.

I was already running slicks and tyre warmers on my F3. My local track has proper facilities so power points for days, which makes life easy. Anyone know if the same 180/60 rear options are good? Looks like the tri-option cup ran 190/60 on stock rims?

Was looking at Valter moto rearsets, MV WSS teams run these and they are good kit.

My streetfigher is still mechanical throttle but never had a issue or the need for spacers on my MV so will see if the Ducati is fine.
 
I would recommend rear sets as a must. Also 6" rims from V4 is fitting the rear, a bit easier with tire choice. Bigger coolers has been needed for many riders. Gear down one cog in the front. Change the seat as the tank grip is not the best on that tank. Better pads for the front brakes. You're good to go!
Nice bike to drive!
 
I think I voted on this with my wallet. I chose this over all SS bikes to build as a race bike (check out my build thread on this forum. A few other guys have some good build threads, too, from which you could take ideas). So I say, indeed, yes, go for it.

That said, if you're not serious about racing, and can get a better deal on a 899 or 959, I say do that. The engine is very close to the same as the V2, and though the chassis is generally considered to be slightly improved on the V2, as a track day / street guy, I'd bet it'd be hard to notice. I would have gone that route, but I have to have a homologated V2 for my racing series.

HSBK racing, domestically, and many teams in Europe, have done a lot of R&D and testing on these by now, and they've proven to be pretty reliable. I think as reliable as the Japanese bikes -- but that's my opinion. And there's good info and data out there and lots of good aftermarket parts.

Regarding cooling, most racing folks are doing the bigger radiator. I've opted not to do that (yet), but I may end up needing it. But I've kept the fan on, which I highly recommend doing. With Woolich, or other tuning, you can actually lower the fan activation temp. Some have even hard-wired in a manual switch. (I've lowered mine to activated at 190 degrees). But these do for sure run hot. Just on the street, when I first got it, it was only like 60 degrees outside, and I was seeing high teens in temp (~217). Where do you live?

If I were in your shoes, I would just keep it all stock, but get a tune. I recommend Woolich, if you can get someone to Dyno and tune it. If not, as noted above by others, there are some pretty good module / out of the box options. The fueling on these out of the factory is ......... Too many Euro-trash hippy assh*les imposing restrictions that have to be complied with equals very poor tuning. The low end is virtually unrideable. But this will be for any new bike, in my opinion. Richening up the low & midrange, at the minimum, will really improve things. It does sound weak, so a slip on would be cool. But it won't help performance much, though it will drop some weight. But even a slip on is so expensive for these bikes. That's one huge drawback, FYI. But if you get just a slip on, you don't need to tune. But a tune helps so, so much.

Try the ergos of the clip ons and rear sets. If they don't feel right, then change them. If they do, then don't. I thought they felt pretty good and would have left them for the street.

The front wheel is the same dimensions at the V4. But the V4 rear is 6", which I do not recommend. It won't hurt it, but it's completely unnecessary and adds weight and reduces agility. Even the V2 OEM wheels are pretty damn light, so upgrading to forged aluminum ones isn't a huge jump. If you're keen on making that better, the weight savings is in the hub / carrier and is much cheaper.
 
I think I voted on this with my wallet. I chose this over all SS bikes to build as a race bike (check out my build thread on this forum. A few other guys have some good build threads, too, from which you could take ideas). So I say, indeed, yes, go for it.

That said, if you're not serious about racing, and can get a better deal on a 899 or 959, I say do that. The engine is very close to the same as the V2, and though the chassis is generally considered to be slightly improved on the V2, as a track day / street guy, I'd bet it'd be hard to notice. I would have gone that route, but I have to have a homologated V2 for my racing series.

HSBK racing, domestically, and many teams in Europe, have done a lot of R&D and testing on these by now, and they've proven to be pretty reliable. I think as reliable as the Japanese bikes -- but that's my opinion. And there's good info and data out there and lots of good aftermarket parts.

Regarding cooling, most racing folks are doing the bigger radiator. I've opted not to do that (yet), but I may end up needing it. But I've kept the fan on, which I highly recommend doing. With Woolich, or other tuning, you can actually lower the fan activation temp. Some have even hard-wired in a manual switch. (I've lowered mine to activated at 190 degrees). But these do for sure run hot. Just on the street, when I first got it, it was only like 60 degrees outside, and I was seeing high teens in temp (~217). Where do you live?

If I were in your shoes, I would just keep it all stock, but get a tune. I recommend Woolich, if you can get someone to Dyno and tune it. If not, as noted above by others, there are some pretty good module / out of the box options. The fueling on these out of the factory is ......... Too many Euro-trash hippy assh*les imposing restrictions that have to be complied with equals very poor tuning. The low end is virtually unrideable. But this will be for any new bike, in my opinion. Richening up the low & midrange, at the minimum, will really improve things. It does sound weak, so a slip on would be cool. But it won't help performance much, though it will drop some weight. But even a slip on is so expensive for these bikes. That's one huge drawback, FYI. But if you get just a slip on, you don't need to tune. But a tune helps so, so much.

Try the ergos of the clip ons and rear sets. If they don't feel right, then change them. If they do, then don't. I thought they felt pretty good and would have left them for the street.

The front wheel is the same dimensions at the V4. But the V4 rear is 6", which I do not recommend. It won't hurt it, but it's completely unnecessary and adds weight and reduces agility. Even the V2 OEM wheels are pretty damn light, so upgrading to forged aluminum ones isn't a huge jump. If you're keen on making that better, the weight savings is in the hub / carrier and is much cheaper.

Cheers for the great summary. I'm in Sydney, Australia. Currently I've got some eyes on 3 V2's with low kms. The price is close enough to similar km 899/959 that getting the V2 make more sense for the better chassis and electronics like auto blipper.

My biggest concern is that coming off the F3 the chassis and handling won't be as nice or have as much feeling.

And is there a workshop manual available for them?
 
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Cheers for the great summary. I'm in Sydney, Australia. Currently I've got some eyes on 3 V2's with low kms. The price is close enough to similar km 899/959 that getting the V2 make more sense for the better chassis and electronics like auto blipper.

My biggest concern is that coming off the F3 the chassis and handling won't be as nice or have as much feeling.

And is there a workshop manual available for them?

You got it.

I haven't ridden the F3. At least not a new one, and not on the track. But the V2 is going to be hard to beat, handling-wise. Everyone seems to love it. For me, coming from Twins Cup bikes (FZ-07 / R7), which are commuter bikes that we make race bikes, this is going to be a world of different and improvement. I couldn't imagine that you wouldn't like it. I've only had it on the street / backroads, but I can tell how special it is.

I'm sure there's a manual? At the very least, you have this forum, and it's outrageously helpful.

Not a manual, but here's a link to the spare parts catalogue, which has some great diagrams and is very useful in learning and trouble shooting:

https://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/ducatiomaha_panigale_v2_my23?fr=sZTVmMzM3OTg5MzI
 
You got it.

I haven't ridden the F3. At least not a new one, and not on the track. But the V2 is going to be hard to beat, handling-wise. Everyone seems to love it. For me, coming from Twins Cup bikes (FZ-07 / R7), which are commuter bikes that we make race bikes, this is going to be a world of different and improvement. I couldn't imagine that you wouldn't like it. I've only had it on the street / backroads, but I can tell how special it is.

I'm sure there's a manual? At the very least, you have this forum, and it's outrageously helpful.

Not a manual, but here's a link to the spare parts catalogue, which has some great diagrams and is very useful in learning and trouble shooting:

https://issuu.com/ducatiomaha/docs/ducatiomaha_panigale_v2_my23?fr=sZTVmMzM3OTg5MzI

I've ridden a few 899's on road before so if an improvement on that it should be good. Hopefully i have one in a few weeks from now
 
I got this information off a SuperSport (which I also have) forum. I have downloaded both manuals and they are very helpful.

https://motorcycleservicemanual.com/product/2022-ducati-panigale-v2-download-service-manual-pdf/
$40 for each, sample below

1705762437199.png
 
I would recommend rear sets as a must. Also 6" rims from V4 is fitting the rear, a bit easier with tire choice. Bigger coolers has been needed for many riders. Gear down one cog in the front. Change the seat as the tank grip is not the best on that tank. Better pads for the front brakes. You're good to go!
Nice bike to drive!

When I spoke to my local Ducati dealer about changing the gearing, they freaked out. Said it would mess up the electronics (DTC, DQS, etc.). I need that stuff to stay alive. Have you had any issues? Did you just turn everything off?
 
When I spoke to my local Ducati dealer about changing the gearing, they freaked out. Said it would mess up the electronics (DTC, DQS, etc.). I need that stuff to stay alive. Have you had any issues? Did you just turn everything off?

No problems! just do the tire calibration after changing and all was fine.
 

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