V2 - Race Bodywork -- Radiator Fan OK?

Hi. Can the fan be kept on in race trim? I think most people take it off, but I'd much rather keep it on, if I can. Going with Woodcraft "high mount exhaust" bodywork.

JB

why would you rather keep it on? I say take it off, its weight and clutter. Are you putting a race rad on it?

KarlKani said:

why would you rather keep it on? I say take it off, its weight and clutter. Are you putting a race rad on it?

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I typically like to keep the radiator fans on race bikes. They drop temp by like 10-20 degrees. Especially on red flags, delayed starts and other tomfoolery where you’re just sitting around. Well worth the 1-2 lbs.

I’m hoping to not have to buy the $5,500 radiator…

Anyway, if anyone knows, please let me know.

ahhh your in Texas

KarlKani said:

ahhh your in Texas

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Yeah, but I race everywhere. I’ve never not found it advantageous to have the fan on.

Where's everywhere? What series are you racing?

KarlKani said:

Where's everywhere? What series are you racing?

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The past few years, I’ve done the following series: MotoAmerica, CCS/ASRA, WERA, CRA, AHMRA, Panam, CVMA, CMRA, WMRRA.

well that's all of them... why not do CSBK? looool

JBJR said:

I typically like to keep the radiator fans on race bikes. They drop temp by like 10-20 degrees. Especially on red flags, delayed starts and other tomfoolery where you’re just sitting around. Well worth the 1-2 lbs.

I’m hoping to not have to buy the $5,500 radiator…

Anyway, if anyone knows, please let me know.

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Highly unlikely the OEM Fan will work with a fairing kit for undertail exhaust and a closed bellypan. The large H2O radiators I use at nowhere near 5500 USD. I normally sell the V2 version for around 2800 Euro (net) plus shipping and handling.

KarlKani said:

well that's all of them... why not do CSBK? looool

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Lol, it is a lot. I’m not sure if I’ll do so many races this year. I might just focus on development and re-engaging with this new platform.

DeussenEngines said:

Highly unlikely the OEM Fan will work with a fairing kit for undertail exhaust and a closed bellypan. The large H2O radiators I use at nowhere near 5500 USD. I normally sell the V2 version for around 2800 Euro (net) plus shipping and handling.

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Woodcraft says the fan fits in their bodywork. I typically go with their products when I have the option, anyway, so I went ahead and ordered it them. I guess we will see.

I do appreciate it, but, I mean, thats outrageously expensive for radiator. Especially when compared to a free fan. What is the rationale behind such a high price? Is there some type of special engineering for production idiosyncrasies that I’m just not understanding?

JBJR said:

Woodcraft says the fan fits in their bodywork. I typically go with their products when I have the option, anyway, so I went ahead and ordered it them. I guess we will see.

I do appreciate it, but, I mean, thats outrageously expensive for radiator. Especially when compared to a free fan. What is the rationale behind such a high price? Is there some type of special engineering for production idiosyncrasies that I’m just not understanding?

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That’s already almost 25% below the list price of the radiator actually. H2O radiators are developed together with professional racing teams competing at international levels are mostly hand built and this takes many hours of labor. Each water pass of the core is brazed into the water jacket on each side and that alone takes a few hours.

The fan solution on the V2 only helps at standstill or super low speeds and also only if you are not following another bike dumping hot air. You will see. If you are doing serious racing with a V2 you will need an upgraded radiator.

Sorry. I miscalculated the VAT off the price. It is actually 2550 Euro without VAT

DeussenEngines said:

That’s already almost 25% below the list price of the radiator actually. H2O radiators are developed together with professional racing teams competing at international levels are mostly hand built and this takes many hours of labor. Each water pass of the core is brazed into the water jacket on each side and that alone takes a few hours.

The fan solution on the V2 only helps at standstill or super low speeds and also only if you are not following another bike dumping hot air. You will see. If you are doing serious racing with a V2 you will need an upgraded radiator.

Sorry. I miscalculated the VAT off the price. It is actually 2550 Euro without VAT

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Well, it still seems very expensive for a radiator.

Yeah, I get how And when the fan works. Standing still is when the bike builds up the most heat. Like I was describing before, red flags, restarts, etc. That’s what the heat management I think is most important and when the fan is so useful.

EVERYONE in the twins cup didn’t run a radiator fan on their Yamaha. Except me. And EVERYONE had overheating issues and “had” to upgrade to the R6 radiator. Except me. I’ve been plenty of race setting, scenarios and locations. I haven’t found one when the fan had not been worth keeping on. If the only downside is one and a half pounds of weight, it’s a no-brainer.

There’s lots of group think in the paddock. I’m not saying that it this bike won’t need an upgraded radiator. I’m just saying that I want to try the regular one with the fan first and then collect the data and see.

I’m not at a super high level, but the past few years of pretty constwnt competition, on superbike specialty build engines, has invariably proven that it was worth having my radiator fan on.

JBJR said:

Standing still is when the bike builds up the most heat.

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An engine under load is where it generates the most heat. Sure it gets hot at a standstill but ideally you shut the bike down and not idle it for long and get an external fan on the bike.

I’ve started bringing an external fan (carpet drying blower) to the track to cool my bike after sessions (even though it has a fan). I’d like to minimize those super hot heat soaks to avoid damaging fussy electrics like the gear position sensor, QS, etc. Works a treat and it’s nice to throw your helmet and gloves in front of it if they’re super sweaty

SuperDomestique said:

An engine under load is where it generates the most heat. Sure it gets hot at a standstill but ideally you shut the bike down and not idle it for long and get an external fan on the bike.

I’ve started bringing an external fan (carpet drying blower) to the track to cool my bike after sessions (even though it has a fan). I’d like to minimize those super hot heat soaks to avoid damaging fussy electrics like the gear position sensor, QS, etc. Works a treat and it’s nice to throw your helmet and gloves in front of it if they’re super sweaty

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I said, "builds up," not, "generates!" Lol. So I meant what I said! Standing still is when the bike starts to heat soak as it cannot properly remove / dissipate the heat, and this is when bikes usually have overheating problems -- in my experience. It's not when riding, it's at a stop, going slowly, parked on the grid waiting for a red flat, etc. Having the radiator fan on when you have to do a warm lap at coating speed (red flag, etc.), for sure helps keep the temperature down. I've testing this numerous times on hot track days in Texas. Running with the fan not on the bike, the putting it back on on the same day. 15-20 degrees different when coming in on a red flag or cool down lap. It's meant the difference between overheating on a quick stop and ending my session and being able to keep going. And this was on superbike built engines running race fuel.

We do run external fans, both for body and bike. But sometimes you can't pull the fan out there. And, like I wrote before, it helps if you're doing a slow lap, or stuck on the track, or don't have time to come back in and point a fan on it, as it's a quick restart. Yes, moving air dries out wet things. I actually use a hair drier, which works even better. And warms up cold boots, gloves and helmet on cold days. Just a little tip.

So, again, I ask: what is the downside of running the engine fan? The "weight?" Minor lack of airflow at speed? I've yet to have someone give me a good case to take it off, when I've tested both and see how much it helps having it on. Especially if the alternative is a multi-thousand dollar radiator upgrade. Which, honestly, I'd need to see some data about how much more it cools. And even it likely would benefit from a fan, for the same reasons I stated above.

JBJR said:

I've yet to have someone give me a good case to take it off

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Karl and Deussen are the experts when it comes to racing Ducatis here. I’d listen to them.

If it were me, I’d try to maximally cool the bike during the most critical operating times like under full throttle. Ducati’s are notorious for running hot and the engines are high maintenance (when subjected to race environs). I’d be running the biggest rad and oil cooler possible. And don’t be surprised if you spin a bearing or water pump gear fails at around 5k mi on the track.

I finally got the bike out on the track, in 75 degree weather, Bike runs great and nice and cool with the OEM fan and race bodywork.

You don't have to run OE fan, you can cheaply make fanshroud and attach Spal fan, this setup is extremely thin when mounted thus provides more room for hot air to escape. This is specially applies when you running underbelly exhaust...