Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build
- Thread starter JBJR
- Start date
Post of pic of the threads on the marks if you would. Mine is on the first line above zero.
The ECU has an inbuilt IMU so you don't need to fit the OEM one. You have the option to run the OEM if you want to but you need to set it up in the software. You will also need to zero the inbuilt IMU before running it
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Ohlins forks on. The 95nm springs "recommended" starting point were way too soft. I couldn't get rider sag under 40mm, with all preload in. (I know some people here don't find sag useful, but I do. I like to have it within a certain range as a starting base point. I sometimes end up out of that range, to get the bike to handle like I want, but I like starting there...).
So I went with 105s, which ended up being an overshoot. I got the sag numbers I wanted, with 5.0 preload turns (mm) in, but wasn't getting the travel or feel that I wanted. As I took out preload, it got better and better, until there was no preload left. And you want at least some on it. So we swapped again with 100s, which is actually what Ohlins recommends (for what sized rider, who knows?). I'm at about 27/28mm ride sag with 12 turns in. We'll see how this goes today. My guess is that I'll pull some out and end up on the higher range. I like for my "base" setting, i.e., for a moderately hard "fork working" track, to be in about the middle of the range, so I can adjust for harder breaking, or more "coasty" less front-end intensive tracks.
I love how you can change the springs on the bike with Ohlins...
Similarly, my 90nm rear spring continues to indicate too soft for my liking. It's finishing turns well, but I have a lot of preload on it (14mm), and only about 23mm of rider sag. I'd like to try a little more sag. I'll probably put on a 95nm this week. We'll see how to today goes with the 90. Changing the front may change the rear dynamics.
So I went with 105s, which ended up being an overshoot. I got the sag numbers I wanted, with 5.0 preload turns (mm) in, but wasn't getting the travel or feel that I wanted. As I took out preload, it got better and better, until there was no preload left. And you want at least some on it. So we swapped again with 100s, which is actually what Ohlins recommends (for what sized rider, who knows?). I'm at about 27/28mm ride sag with 12 turns in. We'll see how this goes today. My guess is that I'll pull some out and end up on the higher range. I like for my "base" setting, i.e., for a moderately hard "fork working" track, to be in about the middle of the range, so I can adjust for harder breaking, or more "coasty" less front-end intensive tracks.
I love how you can change the springs on the bike with Ohlins...
Similarly, my 90nm rear spring continues to indicate too soft for my liking. It's finishing turns well, but I have a lot of preload on it (14mm), and only about 23mm of rider sag. I'd like to try a little more sag. I'll probably put on a 95nm this week. We'll see how to today goes with the 90. Changing the front may change the rear dynamics.
Attachments
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Gotcha.
I am stunned how quickly this bike burns through tires. I did my first day on my racebike this week and used up an entire rear in 50 miles going super slow 7 seconds off lap record pace. And I only had a 90 on the shock. I am assuming I'll be using 1.0 and 95 once the season starts next year.
I am stunned how quickly this bike burns through tires. I did my first day on my racebike this week and used up an entire rear in 50 miles going super slow 7 seconds off lap record pace. And I only had a 90 on the shock. I am assuming I'll be using 1.0 and 95 once the season starts next year.
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Hmm. Could be lots happening there. If you share some details, I could help diagnose. But I don't think that there is anything in particular about this bike that makes it a "tire burner," more than anything else with comparable power and torque. Are you coming from a 400? I'm assuming you mean the rear tire -- only?
Contrarily, I've had excellent tire wear on this bike. For one, it puts the power down more uniformly than what I'm used to. The Twins / LW bikes, that I've been riding the past few years, tend to get these really bad tear / wear / jacked up spots, about half way down from the top of the tire. Just how how the power and torque get applied. Kind of all at once. I just used the same Dunlop R8 slick for two track days, and it looked great. Probably 65-75 laps. No sh*t.
You're on the factory V2 rear linkage? If so, then at your weight and pace, I'd guess the 90 is probably right spring. That probably what I'd be running with that linkage.
That said, it sounds like maybe you don't have enough rear preload in? What are your rear sag numbers? Excessively loose rear, with excessive squat, for sure shreds tires super fast. I've done it.
But it could of course be a lot of other things chassis related.
Perhaps your tire pressures are [way] off? Not getting them warm enough? Too hot?
Last edited:
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Another day of testing. Went pretty well.
I think the 100nm springs are right. I ended up taking out quite a bit of preload to get fuller stroke on the fork -- down to about 5.0 turns in. Which had me end up at a higher range of sag, which I'm okay with. About 45mm rider. That said, these forks are stroked 10mm. So the travel is now up to 130mm, from the 120mm in the OEM set up, and base Ohlins NIX kit. So, really, if you take the 20-30% of stroke for rider sag rule of thumb, I'm not too far out of range. (130 x .3 = 44mm). And as some have correctly pointed out here, sag should just be a starting point. The front felt great, and I like what it's doing. So I'm going to stick with that, for now. It is a very flat track, with no level changes or hard trail braking in to sharp corners, so I think my 5.0 turns in a good spot for this. I.e., I'll likely be adding turns for tracks with more level changes and forces on the front.
Contrarily, my rear is in the low range of sag: about 22mm rider. I have about 15mm of preload on, so I think I'm going to try a 95nm spring and see how that feels. To get a bit more sag. But it's finishing turns great and all-in-all handling well.
Regarding the Metronics package. Everything was great. Well, mostly...
(To begin, I've been calling it the WSS package / tune, which is actually incorrect. Their map has a lot more power than the MotoAmerica spec map mine has. Just to clarify. I've been told that puts it around 132hp. Just to give some context for the international folks reading.)
The map is excellent. Smooth, fast, strong, clean. I felt no need to go in and tinker, or desire to get the Lamba and auto tune. At least for now. It runs great, so time to just start riding more.
The dash is super cool. The shift lights come programed at just the right RPMs. There's no clock on it, which is very annoying, but maybe that's how all of these race-only dashes go. Same with no low-fuel light. Sheesh. I did poke around with some of the settings but left things unchanged. Though you (we) have to run the map supplied, there are some parameters that the rider can change, like engine braking. I'm leaving it all be, for now, but it's neat to see what's there. Also a rain mode and rain light.
The one problem that I had was that I kept blowing the 20amp "Injector / Ignition fuse" (as it is labeled). It first happened second session out on the track and cut the engine. I replaced the fuse, and then it blew, and the engine cut out, on the track, again. Replaced it again, and then it blew, sitting still, just by starting it. Which lends evidence that it's not something loose flopping around, or made worse, by the motion of riding.
So we took the fairings off and looked for bad grounds, something loose, or otherwise odd. Didn't see anything. I talked to a few guys I know running the Solo package, mostly on the GSXR, and they said they had similar fuse problems. Dang. They said they just went up to a bigger fuse, and the stopped blowing them. Not the best solution, I know, but we figured going to a 25amp likely wouldn't screw things up. And two other folks had done it.
I'm not sure if it was the jiggling around of the connections, or just the stouter fuse, but the problem went away, and the bike ran well all weekend, after that. I doubt it is any of the connections or similar. I think it's possible that maybe Solo just puts too light of a fuse in, if not by design, then by assembly mistake? I looked at their wiring diagram and didn't see any 20amp fuse, so it's a bit inconclusive. I know just bumping up to a bigger fuse like is usually a band aid and asking for trouble, but it's worked in three scenarios, and three points makes a line. Maybe a flaw?
The bike absolutely rocked after that, and I'm really happy with things. I felt comfortable and confident on it, had great times, and everything looks good. So I'm going to give things a go at Barber GNF this weekend (club / semi pro race event).
The US supplier of the Solo stuff was not great. Not terrible, but not especially helpful, either. Not much insight in trouble shooting. Thanks again to the the folks helping on the forum.
I think the 100nm springs are right. I ended up taking out quite a bit of preload to get fuller stroke on the fork -- down to about 5.0 turns in. Which had me end up at a higher range of sag, which I'm okay with. About 45mm rider. That said, these forks are stroked 10mm. So the travel is now up to 130mm, from the 120mm in the OEM set up, and base Ohlins NIX kit. So, really, if you take the 20-30% of stroke for rider sag rule of thumb, I'm not too far out of range. (130 x .3 = 44mm). And as some have correctly pointed out here, sag should just be a starting point. The front felt great, and I like what it's doing. So I'm going to stick with that, for now. It is a very flat track, with no level changes or hard trail braking in to sharp corners, so I think my 5.0 turns in a good spot for this. I.e., I'll likely be adding turns for tracks with more level changes and forces on the front.
Contrarily, my rear is in the low range of sag: about 22mm rider. I have about 15mm of preload on, so I think I'm going to try a 95nm spring and see how that feels. To get a bit more sag. But it's finishing turns great and all-in-all handling well.
Regarding the Metronics package. Everything was great. Well, mostly...
(To begin, I've been calling it the WSS package / tune, which is actually incorrect. Their map has a lot more power than the MotoAmerica spec map mine has. Just to clarify. I've been told that puts it around 132hp. Just to give some context for the international folks reading.)
The map is excellent. Smooth, fast, strong, clean. I felt no need to go in and tinker, or desire to get the Lamba and auto tune. At least for now. It runs great, so time to just start riding more.
The dash is super cool. The shift lights come programed at just the right RPMs. There's no clock on it, which is very annoying, but maybe that's how all of these race-only dashes go. Same with no low-fuel light. Sheesh. I did poke around with some of the settings but left things unchanged. Though you (we) have to run the map supplied, there are some parameters that the rider can change, like engine braking. I'm leaving it all be, for now, but it's neat to see what's there. Also a rain mode and rain light.
The one problem that I had was that I kept blowing the 20amp "Injector / Ignition fuse" (as it is labeled). It first happened second session out on the track and cut the engine. I replaced the fuse, and then it blew, and the engine cut out, on the track, again. Replaced it again, and then it blew, sitting still, just by starting it. Which lends evidence that it's not something loose flopping around, or made worse, by the motion of riding.
So we took the fairings off and looked for bad grounds, something loose, or otherwise odd. Didn't see anything. I talked to a few guys I know running the Solo package, mostly on the GSXR, and they said they had similar fuse problems. Dang. They said they just went up to a bigger fuse, and the stopped blowing them. Not the best solution, I know, but we figured going to a 25amp likely wouldn't screw things up. And two other folks had done it.
I'm not sure if it was the jiggling around of the connections, or just the stouter fuse, but the problem went away, and the bike ran well all weekend, after that. I doubt it is any of the connections or similar. I think it's possible that maybe Solo just puts too light of a fuse in, if not by design, then by assembly mistake? I looked at their wiring diagram and didn't see any 20amp fuse, so it's a bit inconclusive. I know just bumping up to a bigger fuse like is usually a band aid and asking for trouble, but it's worked in three scenarios, and three points makes a line. Maybe a flaw?
The bike absolutely rocked after that, and I'm really happy with things. I felt comfortable and confident on it, had great times, and everything looks good. So I'm going to give things a go at Barber GNF this weekend (club / semi pro race event).
The US supplier of the Solo stuff was not great. Not terrible, but not especially helpful, either. Not much insight in trouble shooting. Thanks again to the the folks helping on the forum.
Last edited:
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Hey. I checked everything, and I'm quite sure that I had it correct: the adjustable dogbone, for the "Flat" settting, is indeed 120mm, eye to eye. And I have mine set "+1", so it's 121mm.
I think you are incorrect that the OEM dogbone is 180mm. I'm pretty sure it's 155mm. Which makes the different between that and the shorter one required for the "Flat" setting 35mm (155 - 120 = 35mm). Which is about 1.4", which, if you think about it, or just eye-ball, should "seem" about right, when comparing the two.
Maybe double check?
I am coming from a 94hp RS660, so it's not very comparable. You are nearly full throttle at the apex on that bike. The pirellis I am using wear quicker than dunlops, but I did not expect to go through and entire rear in 50 miles of slow track laps on the V2. The grip was awesome and it wore consistently, so I now understand my wallet will just take a bit more of a beating.
Also, yes I calculated the difference between the flat and progressive as 35mm as well, so I'll check again that I'm near 120.
Good luck at the GNF.
Also, yes I calculated the difference between the flat and progressive as 35mm as well, so I'll check again that I'm near 120.
Good luck at the GNF.
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
It looks like the bodywork was cutting in to the RH ignition coil cable... That was probably causing the short. Fixed and rerouted. New build teething.
There's no TC, ABS, or wheelie control with the next gen WSS electronics.
Can I ask? Why would you build a bike like that for club racing? Is there a club that will let you race against R6s, ZX6s if you have MA/WSS control electronics?
Can I ask? Why would you build a bike like that for club racing? Is there a club that will let you race against R6s, ZX6s if you have MA/WSS control electronics?
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Hi. Yes, it dumps all rider aids. But you can adjust engine braking. But ABS is dumped in any race build, anyway?
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Well, sort of. You can run it in the Formula Middle, but not Superstock Middle -- as I understand it, anyway. (I just reviewed the rule book and signed up.) I did sign up for one superstock middle but just as "exhibition," and will need to DQ. (Just trying to get as many races as possible.)
On that note, I've officially been racing this V2 in club. I did the last round of CMRA at Eagles Canyon last week. (And clenched the #1 plate for Lightweight on the Yamaha FZs... hehe).
Yes, it's kind of "out of class" in many race categories. Running in the "B" (750 inlines) is about as "fair" as it gets, thought most of them are on 600s, realistically, so you kind of feel like you're cheating. The 1000 bike races were fun, but I'm way outgunned with my ~130hp vs. 190hp, and really get held up by slower 1000s in the back. (CMRA makes their grids based on points...). I did win the HWT race, even though V4s, etc., can enter, but it's usually pretty weak. Hopefully I'll do a little better next week at some of the CVMA races, as they (at least some?) are grided by qualifying.
So this will be my "new normal" for the next few years of club racing. Kind of in class "purgatory," with the exception of the few "Next Gen" races available in most of the leagues now. (I made a pitch for CMRA to adopt this, but they seem to be the very last to make meaningful class changes, of all the clubs...)
Last edited:
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Hi. I didn't! Title of thread, "MotoAmerica Build." Haha! I plan on doing a full season of Supersport in 2025. And maybe even the 200, if I can show decently between now and then.
I'm just doing club races because, I like racing and want to improve. As noted above, yes, most clubs now have a least one race for the Next Gen bikes. Otherwise, I'm weighing-in and "wrastling up" against the 1000s, most of the time...
Joined Dec 2023
434 Posts | 93+
Texas
Here are some problems that I've dealt with, recently:
- MAP sensor / BAP sensor. The harness kit comes with a one page instruction on how to do this correctly -- based on what year / version your harness is. And I / we apparently did not follow it correctly. Once we got the harness on, bike started, and seemed to run great right away, so we / I assumed that we had done it correctly. It even ran a full track day, amazingly. It wasn't until GNF at Barber that the bike started having throttle issues and running "wack."
- Namely, it lost power at certain ranges, was super unsmooth and was hard to start.
- We revisited the instruction paper that it came with (pic attached here), and it turns out, we did not do the MAP / BAP modification as required. In our defense, I think the harness has them mislabeled. The "BAP" should be vented to the atmosphere; the "MAP" should connect to the tube that goes in to the manifold. They tell you to do it the other way around; with the BAP going in to the manifold, and the MAP sensing in to the atmosphere. Their instructions are right, but it's misleading.
- So for the "MAP sensor, you need to cut the line going in to the manifold, plug that hole in the manifold (first backing out the nipple; similar process to plugging the SAI), and just let that hose hang off and get input from the open atmosphere.
- Once I fixed this, the bike started easier and ran like a champ the following weekend, after Barber.
- If you're building one of these, make sure you get this right. You're probably more careful than me, but hopefully this helps remind.
Attachments
Last edited:
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Ducati Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
