V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build

I’m sure you guys know that these “recommended” settings are simply ballpark to get you going along a reasonable path to the setup for YOU. They are close enough that the bike will handle well enough for you to ride it hard enough to know what it really needs. The RIDER determines the best values by riding the bike per their own skill/technique. Of course everyone knows that, right?
 
With some help from mobile Ducati tech, we got the radiator on. It actually wasn't that hard, I just couldn't find the attachment points.

The oil cooler lines have o-rings that are easy to damage, so I tore one and had to replace one.

The battery box / mount, on the left side, no longer fits, so he had to make me something new, or modify what's there. I haven't seen that yet.

And I ran one OEM hose, for now, as the OEM left side relay hanger plastic thing is in the way. When I convert to the Solo Engineering electronics, I'll reroute it and use the hose pipe thing.
 

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Regarding the rear linkage: looking at the Supersport competition V2s at parc ferme, in at COTA, last weekend, and talking to some teams and tech, for sure the linkage cannot be changed. Everyone was running the OEM V2 dogbone and linkage.

I was just about to put my V2 linkage back, when lo and behold, provisional 2025 rules came out that have an update that the linkage can now be changed. So, at least for now, I'm keeping the OEM 1199 on there in "flat" but may change to some kind of aftermarket set up, when it comes out. Which it will.

I also ordered a Ducabike adjustable dogbone / linkage. So that may be good for the immediate future.

This weekend, I'm going to fill it up with oil and water and shake it down on street a bit. I then plan on going to the track to test it next weekend.

If all goes well, next step will be to change the fork guts and / or start the Solo Engineering electronics conversion.

I have one more club round on the Twins bikes, after which, I'll really start getting time on the V2.
 
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Unrelated, but here's a cool pic of me from COTA last week.
 

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Ducati tech me me a battery tray bracket and routed everything. Fits and looks great.

I ran the bike a bit, and, man, that radiator drops the operating temperature like 30-40 degrees (f). Pretty amazing. It now gets hot sitting / at idle pretty quickly, as no more fan, so keep that in mind. Will need a blower or fan on it at red flags and starting lines.

Having to make some trims to the body work and radiator shroud today, with the body guy, to make it all fit up correctly.

But I did a few test runs on back roads over the weekend, and it is running smooth and strong. Excited to test it more this upcoming weekend with the new radiator and Ohlins rear. Will [hopefully] be the first time I'll have been able to run it hard without some kind of problematic limitation (overheating; rear grip; fuel cut outs; etc.)...
 

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JBJR said:
Regarding the rear linkage: looking at the Supersport competition V2s at parc ferme, in at COTA, last weekend, and talking to some teams and tech, for sure the linkage cannot be changed. Everyone was running the OEM V2 dogbone and linkage.

I was just about to put my V2 linkage back, when lo and behold, provisional 2025 rules came out that have an update that the linkage can now be changed. So, at least for now, I'm keeping the OEM 1199 on there in "flat" but may change to some kind of aftermarket set up, when it comes out. Which it will.

I also ordered a Ducabike adjustable dogbone / linkage. So that may be good for the immediate future.

This weekend, I'm going to fill it up with oil and water and shake it down on street a bit. I then plan on going to the track to test it next weekend.

If all goes well, next step will be to change the fork guts and / or start the Solo Engineering electronics conversion.

I have one more club round on the Twins bikes, after which, I'll really start getting time on the V2.
Click to expand...

I threw the 1199 linkage on my V2 and rode it all weekend, left the stock shock on instead of putting on the Ohlins just to see how it would feel, thought it was great, got it to the point where it's actually giving back good feedback with the stock shock which is rare. Definitely a good mod for this thing in my book
 
Hooch33 said:
I threw the 1199 linkage on my V2 and rode it all weekend, left the stock shock on instead of putting on the Ohlins just to see how it would feel, thought it was great, got it to the point where it's actually giving back good feedback with the stock shock which is rare. Definitely a good mod for this thing in my book
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update. One a track or on the street?
 
Hooch33 said:
Rode it on some desert sweepers and S turns, felt it was more responsive than the stock link, but again it was on a stock rear shock, not the ohlins
Click to expand...

Terrific.

Again, I thought the OEM shock actually felt pretty decent. The bike started overheating before I really got to push it hard, but I was faster every lap and broke my PBs on my twins bike.

Ohlins this weekend.
 
Yup i noticed the rear stock shock really benefits from that 1199 link, not a bad mod to do if you have one laying around or pick one up from Ebay, I did use an adjustable dogbone though to set the correct ride height
 
Hooch33 said:
Yup i noticed the rear stock shock really benefits from that 1199 link, not a bad mod to do if you have one laying around or pick one up from Ebay, I did use an adjustable dogbone though to set the correct ride height
Click to expand...

Yeah, we're allowed to use one of those now, as well. I will put that on Friday.

What's your shock length, currently? I'm going to start with two turns (2mm) of eyelet extension. And what's your dogbone length? It starts at 120mm. Feel free to post some pics.

What's the difference in adjust ride height via the shock versus making the dogbone longer? I'm sure there are differences in how it affects swing arm angle and other things?
 
Im At work but may have some pics on my phone ill have to check, I just used a shorter aftermarket adjustable dogbone that was in a parts box for a 1199. I just adjusted it so it was at the stock ride height as the stock settings on the V2 with the stock link and dogbone. Did it on jackstands under my rearsets in my living room, but it's exactly at the same height it was stock with the 1199 parts on it.
 
V21199.jpg
So took the link, the dogbone, the rear wheel and the rearsets off the 1199 and swapped them onto this thing, this is the stock shock in the pic not the Ohlins
 
Hooch33 said:
Im At work but may have some pics on my phone ill have to check, I just used a shorter aftermarket adjustable dogbone that was in a parts box for a 1199. I just adjusted it so it was at the stock ride height as the stock settings on the V2 with the stock link and dogbone. Did it on jackstands under my rearsets in my living room, but it's exactly at the same height it was stock with the 1199 parts on it.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for that. Yeah, that short dogbone is 120mm, eye-to-eye, FYI.

The shock is 312mm, 317mm with top out spring extended / stretched. I have it at 314mm, right now. I just asked my suspension guy what's the difference in adjusting shock length versus increasing dogbone length.
 
Hooch33 said:
View attachment 56796
So took the link, the dogbone, the rear wheel and the rearsets off the 1199 and swapped them onto this thing, this is the stock shock in the pic not the Ohlins
Click to expand...

Very cool.

So FYI: the OEM 1199 dogbone is not "adjustable," per se. It's just "bi-lengthal," I guess is a stupid word I can make up. Meaning, that it can be made to fit the "Flat' setting, at its 120mm setting, or it can be made to fit the "P" setting, at it's longer, 140mm length. It cannot do anything in between. It has those two lengths, and those two lengths, only. To truly have a adjustability, you need to get an aftermarket dogbone. Which I have coming.
 
The dogbone that I took was an aftermarket one. definitely not the stock one that came on it.
 
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Did some great testing last weekend. Here's some notes on set up and such:
  • Shock is set at its longest: 317mm, not extended / stretch (presumably, 322mm stretched).
  • I messed around quite a bit with rear compression and, honestly, didn't notice much difference between the settings. I had as much as 17 clicks out, and as little as 3 out. Suspension guy told me this is the flat linkage doing its work, which is a good thing. Left it at 13 clicks out.
  • Rear rebound damping at 18 clicks out. Felt pretty good.
  • Rear preload was a lot more sensitive to changes. I increased rear shock spring preload from it's base of 10mm of compression to about 14mm compression; which was about 2 additional turns. It wasn't finishing turns how I wanted, but now it's getting close. I will likely want to add another turn and try that. Any more preload than that, I'll likely go to a stiffer spring. Currently have a 90 nm on there.
  • Rear grip was very good. I did increase the dogbone 1mm, and that helped with initial turn-in / steering. I increased it one more mm, to +2mm, and I felt rear grip decrease, so I took it back out. So I'm at +1mm on the dogbone (121mm eye-to-eye).
  • Still OEM forks in OEM position (+5mm of tube above the top of the triple).
  • Tire wear was great.
  • Front end felt very good, especially for a stock suspension.
  • Cooling system was amazing. Never above 190 on the track, with air temps as high as 88f.
  • Did some ergo adjustments on the bars.
  • Getting a lot of brake fade. I'm not sure what is the nature of this just bein a bigger / heavier bike, or what. Bled calipers and master a lot, but didn't really have any bubbles come out. Not sure what's going on.
  • Tune / map ran great. Bike is fast!
I'm dropping the forks to have the NIX kit installed, today. 95 nm springs.

I also just had the injectors flow tested and cleaned, just in case. They flowed great.
 
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I've decided to go ahead and get the WSS electronics. At least the "basic" components. So I have the dash, harness, QS, ECU and ECU case coming.

I've stripped off the OEM harness and ECU, and it went pretty well.

I'm trying to get the bike on the track next weekend, so I may do some temporary things just go get it going by then. Like leaving the OEM fairing stay on and creating a temporary mounting situation for the dash, ECU and everything on the sides out of the OEM plastic holders.

Clutch switch is not needed for this package, FYI. So I'll be taking that off and putting a regular banjo back on.

Today, I'm pulling the OEM quick shifter and linkage and coming up with a linkage combo that fits.
 

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The stock dogbone should be 180mm, and the difference between the two points in the adjustable linkage are around 40mm apart, so I set my adjustable one at 140mm. 120mm seems to be quite a bit too short.
 
cu260r6 said:
The stock dogbone should be 180mm, and the difference between the two points in the adjustable linkage are around 40mm apart, so I set my adjustable one at 140mm. 120mm seems to be quite a bit too short.
Click to expand...

Hmm. Maybe I had it wrong. Let me double check.
 

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