V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build

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JBJR said:
Thanks for that. Does look good. The Galletto H20 seems very similar and is quite a bit less expensive. I'm also concerned about lead time on the Febur. I can get the H20 in about two weeks.

And your bike is amazing.

Do you offer, or know where to get those custom ECU holder things for all of the electronics? I'd like to get away from the big, plastic stock ones, if I can. Both sides.
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I fabricated all of the holders and battery box as there's nothing aftermarket I could find. I will take some better pictures of them and should be easy to replicate. The electronics are all Solo engineering, ECU, harness, sensors but there are other options for wiring harness available that works with the Solo ECU it locates the ECU at front of the bike, I prefer it on side.
 
Bruce Wayne said:
I fabricated all of the holders and battery box as there's nothing aftermarket I could find. I will take some better pictures of them and should be easy to replicate. The electronics are all Solo engineering, ECU, harness, sensors but there are other options for wiring harness available that works with the Solo ECU it locates the ECU at front of the bike, I prefer it on side.
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A skilled man.

I'm going the Solo Engineering package, soon. So let me know about a second of your set up. I'd love one.
 
Got the old radiator off. ("Made by KTM..." Ha!) I was lucky enough to find a Galletto H2O radiator / oil cooler in stock in the US, and it should be here by the weekend.

I also pulled the OEM shock and started to pull the linkage. (I need to go out and get a Torx that fits the linkage a main bolt. 60?). I'm picking up the Ohlins tomorrow but need to wait for the spring, which is arriving separately.

Project moving faster than I thought.

I may, or may not, do another day on it in September, but I'll really busy with Twins stuff, so likely not. But October, I'll do a few days, for sure.
 

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1199 adjustable linkage on. If you change your linkage out, make sure to support the left side of the bike somewhere else besides the left foot peg, to unload the suspension. Perhaps it's different with other exhausts, but with the full Sparks, you can't pull the main bolt out on the linkage as the left side header is in the way. I suppose you can take the exhaust off, but for me, it was easier to move the jack stand to the left engine case and remove the entire foot rest / controls assembly.

Ohlins shock gets here today.

I'm going to raise my rear ride height 4-6mm, from where it was before, to help with turn-in steering.
 

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Bruce Wayne said:
This is the Febur, comes with a bypass for the water cooled oil cooler, much neater
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Do you (or anyone else here) know how much these oversized radiator and oil cooler increase the total coolant volume and total oil volume? I.e., what those "new" volume numbers are? Obviously, I'll just fill them until they are appropriately "full," but it would just be good to have some notes and have a place to start.
 
JBJR said:
Do you (or anyone else here) know how much these oversized radiator and oil cooler increase the total coolant volume and total oil volume? I.e., what those "new" volume numbers are? Obviously, I'll just fill them until they are appropriately "full," but it would just be good to have some notes and have a place to start.
Click to expand...

Not sure on the volume I never measured, it's a much larger surface area so I would guess 20% but that's just a guess. They do take a while to bleed, need to lay bike over both sides to get All the air out, and re check level after a couple of heat cycles
 
JBJR said:
1199 adjustable linkage on. If you change your linkage out, make sure to support the left side of the bike somewhere else besides the left foot peg, to unload the suspension. Perhaps it's different with other exhausts, but with the full Sparks, you can't pull the main bolt out on the linkage as the left side header is in the way. I suppose you can take the exhaust off, but for me, it was easier to move the jack stand to the left engine case and remove the entire foot rest / controls assembly.

I'm going to raise my rear ride height 4-6mm, from where it was before, to help with turn-in steering.
Click to expand...

Please let us know the shock length you end up with that creates a 4-6mm increase in ride height with the flat rate setting on the linkage. I'd like to use the same setup.
 
cu260r6 said:
Got the keyless ignition to work. Apparently there is a reset button on the battery itself (not OEM battery). Hit it and the ignition button worked well.

I went all the way with suspension to start, Ohlins FKR carts and TTX shock. Now, I only need my exhaust to arrive from Poland and my bodywork from the Czech Republic, and I'm ready to roll.
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Do you know what your Ohlins TTX shock length is, eye-to-eye, when it was set up from Ohlins?
 
Hooch33 said:
So what is the desired outcome from swapping to an 1199 linkage? do you have to use a different shock or can you use the stocker? Does it change the way the bike sits stock and change the dynamics? Haven't heard of this upgrade, just want to know what the outcome is and dynamics of switching out the linkage, and what the benefits are vs stock?
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Here's a good comment thread on the "F" versus "P," on the adjustable 1199/1299 linkages and the related geometry and such. Find "Steve B's" comments. He seems to explain it well.

https://ducatiforum.com/t/how-to-change-f-to-p-on-rear-shock.1230/page-2
 
Bruce Wayne said:
Yes, using a shock stretch tool so it's fully topped out
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Oh, sorry I didn’t understand that. I didn’t know was such a thing. I guess I need one of those.

Mine came in at 312 mm which is ridiculous. It’s supposed to come at 317mm. (See my rant about the shock lengths in a separate thread.

What brand is that?
 
JBJR said:
Oh, sorry I didn’t understand that. I didn’t know was such a thing. I guess I need one of those.

Mine came in at 312 mm which is ridiculous. It’s supposed to come at 317mm. (See my rant about the shock lengths in a separate thread.

What brand is that?
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That's a K-tech but there is quite a few different ones out there, andriani make a nice one too
 
Bruce Wayne said:
That's a K-tech but there is quite a few different ones out there, andriani make a nice one too
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Thanks for that. I’m looking it up, and nothing is really coming up. Is there a specific name I should look for I searched shock, top out, stretch tool, and some other things.

I see. Thanks for that. I wasn’t even aware this process was done.

I am aware of a top out spring, but I thought that was something you needed. is stretching it out like this just just a workaround to get the right shock length you need, or is this something that’s just good to do in general, in your opinion? I thought a top out was good.
 
JBJR said:
Thanks for that. I’m looking it up, and nothing is really coming up. Is there a specific name I should look for I searched shock, top out, stretch tool, and some other things.

I see. Thanks for that. I wasn’t even aware this process was done.

I am aware of a top out spring, but I thought that was something you needed. is stretching it out like this just just a workaround to get the right shock length you need, or is this something that’s just good to do in general, in your opinion? I thought a top out was good.
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All race teams measure and set the shock length like this, it's the only accurate way of getting repeatable measurements. Andriani has a store in the US or go through WRS Italy they have it listed on their website, it's about $1,100 AUD not sure what US price is
 

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