V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build

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Also, as you can see in the pics, I've removed the OEM left side controls thing. I tested everything and [so far], the bike runs and rides fine without it. If I need to change some setting, like traction control, I'm obviously losing the ability to do that on the fly, but I can always change it in between sessions.

And there's no ride modes or traction control or wheel control with the WSS electronics, anyway. There is a left side button thing that goes with that kit, but it's for screening through the dash. I may or may not want this when I change over. If so, I guess I'll make some room, but the aftermarket one is a lot smaller and less clunky than this big OEM thing.
 
I put some heat wrap on the right side exhaust to project the new brake "reservoir." It lowered the temp there 150-200 degrees. So that's good. I'll put some on the other side, to help keep the shock cooler, when I change out the shock and linkage.

I'm changing out the linkage with an 1199 one, that has a "flat" option, that's supposed to be a lot less progressive. I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep it on for MotoA, but I at least want to try it.
 

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Please let us know how the flat-rate linkage piece feels. I have been contemplating the same change.
 
cu260r6 said:
Please let us know how the flat-rate linkage piece feels. I have been contemplating the same change.
Click to expand...

I’ve only really had two full days on it as it is, so I’m not sure how much that I’ll have to compare, but I’ll do my best. I’ll also be putting the new shock on soon so there’s just a lot of variables here. And I’m still just so unfamiliar with the bike.

That said, I’ve never gone more linear on the rear from an OEM progressive and had it not feel better — on many bikes. I can only imagine that it’s worth doing. I would go ahead and do it, if you can find one on eBay.
 
JBJR said:
I put some heat wrap on the right side exhaust to project the new brake "reservoir." It lowered the temp there 150-200 degrees. So that's good. I'll put some on the other side, to help keep the shock cooler, when I change out the shock and linkage.

I'm changing out the linkage with an 1199 one, that has a "flat" option, that's supposed to be a lot less progressive. I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep it on for MotoA, but I at least want to try it.
Click to expand...

So what is the desired outcome from swapping to an 1199 linkage? do you have to use a different shock or can you use the stocker? Does it change the way the bike sits stock and change the dynamics? Haven't heard of this upgrade, just want to know what the outcome is and dynamics of switching out the linkage, and what the benefits are vs stock?
 
Hooch33 said:
So what is the desired outcome from swapping to an 1199 linkage? do you have to use a different shock or can you use the stocker? Does it change the way the bike sits stock and change the dynamics? Haven't heard of this upgrade, just want to know what the outcome is and dynamics of switching out the linkage, and what the benefits are vs stock?
Click to expand...

Hi. If you run it on the "F" (for, "Flat") setting, it makes the linkage leverage dynamics more linear (i.e., less progressive). There's a lot of physics and engineering, having to do with all kinds of handling dynamics, that I'm not really smart enough to appropriately explain. But it makes the bike handle better. Better rear grip, less "bouncy," etc. The idea is that the force is applied (?) or managed, or whatever, in a more linear fashion throughout the shock stroke. In a more progressive set up, the spring basically get's "stiffer" as the stroke goes on.

From what I understand, the OEM V2 linkage, and the 1199 linkage on "P" setting, and, really, pretty much all OEM linkages, are designed to be progressive. I think, mostly because they need to be able to handle having a passenger. I'm sure there are some other reasons why a progressive rear suspension is the standard on street bikes. Perhaps other folks can chime in.

On every race bike I've ever had or built, going to a more linear linkage, which is typically only possible with an aftermarket kit, has improved rear-end handling dramatically. Again, I'm not too smart on the physics, but going more linear on the rear linkage on a race bikes is kind of canonical standard that it will make the bike handle better.

There are aftermarket kits for this bike that do similar effect, if not better, than this OEM "shortcut." But, as I'm building this bike to be supersport / superstock legal, I for sure cannot replace the rear linkage with anything aftermarket. As this is a Panigale OEM part, I'm hoping I can squeeze it by, but they may call me out on it, and I may have to change it back... But that's not until next year...

Do you race yours, or go to the track often?
 
Not very often anymore but I have access to a racetrack, im in Az so when the winter gets here ill start riding again, so all you really need is to instal the 1199 linkage with the stock shock? Does it change the ride height at all? Thanks man that was a good write up! Do you have a pic of what it looks like mounted? Also did you need any other stuff off that 1199 besides the shock linkage, adjustable dogbone maybe?
 
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Hooch33 said:
Not very often anymore but I have access to a racetrack, im in Az so when the winter gets here ill start riding again, so all you really need is to instal the 1199 linkage with the stock shock? Does it change the ride height at all? Thanks man that was a good write up! Do you have a pic of what it looks like mounted? Also did you need any other stuff off that 1199 besides the shock linkage, adjustable dogbone maybe?
Click to expand...

Thank you. I get a lot of good info on here and try to give some back, in the rare chances that I actually have something useful to offer...

Honestly, for street riding, I'm not sure how much benefit you'd get from this change. But I could be wrong -- maybe it's noticeable. It's cheap enough that you could probably just go for it, but I think you'd be way better off upgrading the rear shock. Or at least having it rebuilt & upgraded by a suspension place, which they'd probably do for $400-500. That's what I would do.

I ride a lot on the street, and I for sure wouldn't bother changing the linkage. But I don't ride very "spiritedly," and it's just going to the gym and such, so I don't really care about street "performance."
 
Have an Ohlins TTX shock on the way. Finally. Going with a 90 spring, to start. The spring is on back order (of course...), so it won't get it until September.

I'm going to a local (ish) track this weekend in Oklahoma -- mostly to ride my Yamaha FZ twins bikes. But I'm bringing the V2 and may ride it a bit to test out the new clutch master. But the OEM rear shock is honestly such a limitation, at this point, that I may just wait until I change it to the Ohlins to ride again.

From there, I'll likely change out the fork internals next. But I just wanted to have a few track days on the OEM forks to suss them out a bit.

Then a slipper.

Then it's the WSS electronics, at which point I'll pretty much be 100% committed to the V2 and riding only it.
 
JBJR said:
Thank you. I get a lot of good info on here and try to give some back, in the rare chances that I actually have something useful to offer...

Honestly, for street riding, I'm not sure how much benefit you'd get from this change. But I could be wrong -- maybe it's noticeable. It's cheap enough that you could probably just go for it, but I think you'd be way better off upgrading the rear shock. Or at least having it rebuilt & upgraded by a suspension place, which they'd probably do for $400-500. That's what I would do.

I ride a lot on the street, and I for sure wouldn't bother changing the linkage. But I don't ride very "spiritedly," and it's just going to the gym and such, so I don't really care about street "performance."
Click to expand...

I grabbed an 1199 linkage with the F setting after work yesterday, on the way home today ill grab an adjustable dogbone just in case, think I saw one last night in the race parts boxes. Grabbed the CNC rearsets off that old 1199 junker racebike as well and they fit perfectly on the V2. Gonna grab the gear shift support and the Ohlins rear tonight off it, not sure what it's sprung at though. Just gotta dig through boxes tonight but I have nothing else to do lol, Oh the rear wheel fit on the V2 perfectly as well, now sporting a 190/55 in the rear, threw a new Rosso II on the rim last night.
 
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FYI, Kyle Racing is selling 1092-29/90 springs on ebay for $50. I received mine recently in about four days after ordering.
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I rode the V2 yesterday and had some good sessions. I pushed pace a bit, but I'm still very new to the bike; this is maybe the second day I've had on it where everything was working. Fast-ish for being so new on it but being somewhat tentative with the controls, as I'm still shaking things out. I only did two sessions but made some good progress.

New clutch master felt great. Hydraulic switch had no problems, as did all of the connected electronics (QS, etc.). Good.

The V2 can definitely run and work without the left side control buttons. So unless you're changing traction settings and such on the fly, you may not need this unit on your left bar. It's nice having the real estate.

Thought I manually throttle blipped a bit, downshifts felt good, with very limited disruption to the rear. I wonder if an aftermarket slipper would allow to use the auto blip more aggressively (i.e., can downshift without the clutch in a higher RPM range). Because, as it is now, I need to blip the throttle a bit in most high-RPM, hard downshift scenarios. I think the auto-blip is capped at something like 9k rpm?

The suspension felt surprisingly good. I may even wait until I install the Ohlins rear shock, just to see how much more I can push the OEM.

At this track, I get a lot of brake fade -- more than nearly everywhere I go. The V2 was no exception here. I had to make a lot of adjustments on the remote adjuster each session. I'm wondering if some upgraded rotors may improve fade. I'll try some other tracks first, and see.

Biggest problem: bike coolant temp got hot. Very hot. I can't believe that there isn't some kind of flashing light, or other kind of indicator, that informs the rider of extreme heat like that. I didn't boil over, and I have no idea how not. Later, I checked the water level, and it was good, so it's for sure something fundamental that needs to be corrected, if this bike is going to run cool. I was hoping that I could get away without the after-market radiator cooling system, but it looks like I'll for sure need it. I think I'll put in an order tomorrow.

And the headers beneath the seat really cook my legs. I'm hoping wrapping the left side header under the seat will help a lot. It should, as it's actually a header. The right side pipe is actually just a mid pipe.

All-in-all, I'm super impressed with this motorcycle and am excited to get on it in the fall as my "full time" bike.
 

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The auto blipper is designed to prevent over rev with multiple downshifts. With a 16k R6 or V4R, this is harder to do while braking, but the more limited rev ceiling and longer gear ratios on our bikes require spacing out multiple shifts in order to get the blipper to activate.

Bike looks great!
 
I just realized that maybe I'm not off the throttle 100% when trying to use the autoblip / quickdownshift. Maybe that's why I'm not able to make it work all the time...
 
cu260r6 said:
The auto blipper is designed to prevent over rev with multiple downshifts. With a 16k R6 or V4R, this is harder to do while braking, but the more limited rev ceiling and longer gear ratios on our bikes require spacing out multiple shifts in order to get the blipper to activate.

Bike looks great!
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Yeah, I knew it had a cutoff, but I didn't think I had it reved that high. As I noted after you posted this, I think I'm just not off the throttle completely. Maybe that's the problem.

Do you know what the "cut off" rev number is for the QS downshift to not work on the V2? I thought it was in the manual, but I just read through, and it's not in there.

Thank you. Getting there.
 
Since downshifting 2->1 will generate a larger rev spike than 6->5, it should be gear dependent. But that's an assumption on my part based on other similar bikes. I do not know of any specific numbers.
 
JBJR said:
I rode the V2 yesterday and had some good sessions. I pushed pace a bit, but I'm still very new to the bike; this is maybe the second day I've had on it where everything was working. Fast-ish for being so new on it but being somewhat tentative with the controls, as I'm still shaking things out. I only did two sessions but made some good progress.

New clutch master felt great. Hydraulic switch had no problems, as did all of the connected electronics (QS, etc.). Good.

The V2 can definitely run and work without the left side control buttons. So unless you're changing traction settings and such on the fly, you may not need this unit on your left bar. It's nice having the real estate.

Thought I manually throttle blipped a bit, downshifts felt good, with very limited disruption to the rear. I wonder if an aftermarket slipper would allow to use the auto blip more aggressively (i.e., can downshift without the clutch in a higher RPM range). Because, as it is now, I need to blip the throttle a bit in most high-RPM, hard downshift scenarios. I think the auto-blip is capped at something like 9k rpm?

The suspension felt surprisingly good. I may even wait until I install the Ohlins rear shock, just to see how much more I can push the OEM.

At this track, I get a lot of brake fade -- more than nearly everywhere I go. The V2 was no exception here. I had to make a lot of adjustments on the remote adjuster each session. I'm wondering if some upgraded rotors may improve fade. I'll try some other tracks first, and see.

Biggest problem: bike coolant temp got hot. Very hot. I can't believe that there isn't some kind of flashing light, or other kind of indicator, that informs the rider of extreme heat like that. I didn't boil over, and I have no idea how not. Later, I checked the water level, and it was good, so it's for sure something fundamental that needs to be corrected, if this bike is going to run cool. I was hoping that I could get away without the after-market radiator cooling system, but it looks like I'll for sure need it. I think I'll put in an order tomorrow.

And the headers beneath the seat really cook my legs. I'm hoping wrapping the left side header under the seat will help a lot. It should, as it's actually a header. The right side pipe is actually just a mid pipe.

All-in-all, I'm super impressed with this motorcycle and am excited to get on it in the fall as my "full time" bike.
Click to expand...

Can definitely recommend the febur radiator, really good quality
 
This is the Febur, comes with a bypass for the water cooled oil cooler, much neater
 

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Bruce Wayne said:
This is the Febur, comes with a bypass for the water cooled oil cooler, much neater
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Does look good. The Galletto H20 seems very similar and is quite a bit less expensive. I'm also concerned about lead time on the Febur. I can get the H20 in about two weeks.

And your bike is amazing.

Do you offer, or know where to get those custom ECU holder things for all of the electronics? I'd like to get away from the big, plastic stock ones, if I can. Both sides.
 

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