I just started my V2 racebike build and was amazed how many plastic brackets there were after I removed the fairings. Are you using the stock plastic ECU holder still? If not, how did you mount yours? And same for the radiator, do you still have the large plastic shroud that mounts around both? If not, how is yours mounted?
V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build
- Thread starter JBJR
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Hi. Good luck on your build. Are you posting it here?
Yes, lots of clutter underneath.
Yes, I'm using the OEM ECU holder, for now. When I put on the Solo WSS electronics, I may have to have something made. But it will for sure have some kind of rubber / anti-vibration cover / case.
Yes, I have the OEM radiator setup. With the fan. I'm hoping this will be sufficient for racing. I've tested at COTA in June heat, and it was good, so I'm hoping it stays this way.
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You can do it from mid line like a brake pressure sensor would work. Or use a line in at clutch salve with micro switch - but then you have to have bleed from master only which is kinda annoying
You can do it from mid line like a brake pressure sensor would work. Or use a line in at clutch salve with micro switch - but then you have to have bleed from master only which is kinda annoying
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Thanks for that. The Vortex Brake Light Switch, which is built into the banjo bolt, seems like a good option.
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Yeah that is what I did on my last bike, bleeding is annoying but no big deal
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Why is bleeding annoying? Does it not just flow through the banjo, like normal?
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There
will be no bleed nipple at the slave. Bleed nipple is at the master on the bar if you use switch like this
https://www.motosport.com/vortex-brake-pressure-switch
will be no bleed nipple at the slave. Bleed nipple is at the master on the bar if you use switch like this
https://www.motosport.com/vortex-brake-pressure-switch
Boulder Motorsports has a bracket for the Solo ECU for when you switch.
I am going to try eliminating the stock plastic radiator shroud and creating my own mounts. More airflow through there can't hurt, and the plastic seems to be inhibiting it.
I am going to try eliminating the stock plastic radiator shroud and creating my own mounts. More airflow through there can't hurt, and the plastic seems to be inhibiting it.
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Thanks for that. Yeah, I know they have a rubber case / anti vibration thing for it. Good to know about the bracket.
Whatever stuff you end up creating, including the radiator mount, and whatever else, f you want to create two, I'd love to pay for it and have a set.
Are you keeping the fan? My guess is that the OEM radiator will be problematic without it.
And feel free to pick my brain about anything I've done so far. Or set up. I'm doing another day on the bike next week or so, and I'm much better at riding it than building it. So hopefully I can be of more help there.
Where are you located?
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I may try just a little on the right side header and say it's been melting the brake line tubing. (Even if the Brembo line fixes it.)
And maybe some heat shield under the seat or inside the subframe? Man, this thing gets toasty.
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Carbon fiber shield (plastic is actually better as the heat transfer is worse). Glue a chunk of heater wrap on the back then glue some heat reflective stuff on. Those FIM guys must not own any ducati's.
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Thanks for that. Doing some thinking about what would fit.
Yeah, I thought it was a weird rule, as well. I've asked around, and the idea seems to be that the wrap material acts like a sponge, and a wick, for fuel in the case of a crash, and makes a fire worse. I mean, I guess that could happen...
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BTW if you want toasty try a V4. I've done everything I can think of to lower temps. Last time I arrived home after traffic I got off and used the heat gun to check the seat, 127F.
I'll take some pics if I rig up something; however, it will be so stingy I do not think anyone else will want to copy it. 
I removed the fan but will reevaluate after I ride it at the track for the first time later this month. I added a higher pressure radiator cap which makes the boiling point higher even if it does not do anything to lower the temps.
I am 180lbs and using a 85n shock spring and .975 fork springs to start. Do you have any shock length or fork height suggestions?
My biggest problem now is I can't get the bike to turn on once I installed the jet prime ignition replacement button. It started fine before, and I have checked all the connections are attached and in the correct spot, but still nothing.
I removed the fan but will reevaluate after I ride it at the track for the first time later this month. I added a higher pressure radiator cap which makes the boiling point higher even if it does not do anything to lower the temps.
I am 180lbs and using a 85n shock spring and .975 fork springs to start. Do you have any shock length or fork height suggestions?
My biggest problem now is I can't get the bike to turn on once I installed the jet prime ignition replacement button. It started fine before, and I have checked all the connections are attached and in the correct spot, but still nothing.
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I'll take some pics if I rig up something; however, it will be so stingy I do not think anyone else will want to copy it.
I removed the fan but will reevaluate after I ride it at the track for the first time later this month. I added a higher pressure radiator cap which makes the boiling point higher even if it does not do anything to lower the temps.
I am 180lbs and using a 85n shock spring and .975 fork springs to start. Do you have any shock length or fork height suggestions?
My biggest problem now is I can't get the bike to turn on once I installed the jet prime ignition replacement button. It started fine before, and I have checked all the connections are attached and in the correct spot, but still nothing.
Depends where you live, and temps, I guess, but I'd try to find a way to fit the fan. I even got mine to work with the Spark exhaust.
What suspension do you have? Hard to say without knowing that. But it sounds like you should be close?
I have the OEM springs, with the OEM suspension, right now. Which, I believe, is 100nm springs on the forks, and 80nm on the shock. This worked ok as a base set up, but I've quickly outgrown / outpaced the OEM shock, and will be getting an Öhlins TTX soon. I think the starting point for me likely be a100nm spring. And I'll soon after get some NIX Ohlins forks. I think the starting point for those will likely be 95nm. I'm 165 lbs., no gear; ~188 with. I
Did you put the key with the Jetprime thing? (I'm assuming we're talking about the same ignition replacement button.)
I ask, because I didn't know the key had to go with it, so when I first installed it, I did not put the key in the little box.
https://www.hsbkracing.com/parts-an...-panigale-ignition-bypass-racing-kill-switch/
So maybe it started because the key was on you, then when you tried again, it wasn't?
Got the keyless ignition to work. Apparently there is a reset button on the battery itself (not OEM battery). Hit it and the ignition button worked well.
I went all the way with suspension to start, Ohlins FKR carts and TTX shock. Now, I only need my exhaust to arrive from Poland and my bodywork from the Czech Republic, and I'm ready to roll.
I went all the way with suspension to start, Ohlins FKR carts and TTX shock. Now, I only need my exhaust to arrive from Poland and my bodywork from the Czech Republic, and I'm ready to roll.
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Oh, well, good it was a battery problem and it's fixed.
FKRs are nice. I find the gas forks hard to tune.
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I was able to get the RCS clutch set up and working. I had to get a brake pressure switch, and then splice it with a spare OEM clutch switch wire / connector to get it to connected to the OEM harness. Quick shifter, in-gear start stop, etc., all working great.
Bled no problems.
I wonder if the WSS harness / electronics package will even need the clutch switch?
Bled no problems.
I wonder if the WSS harness / electronics package will even need the clutch switch?
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