V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build

JBJR said:

Thanks to member ducativ2jsn, I now have a Spark full system exhaust on my bike. Thanks to him for his patience and good job packaging up the pipes. It looks and sounds amazing.It was a little bit of a hastle to put on but mostly because I kept the fan and had to modify the shroud, which took a few (dozen) tries to get it right.

Got the SBS pads in. Just waiting on a new bleed nipple and then I'll fill the front brakes, bed the pads, and do the final routing of the front wheel speed sensor cable.

I was also able to get to the bottom of why my quick shifter wasn't working. It was just a software issue. It needed to be "turned back on (?)" by a Ducati tech with the Tex tool thing. What a weird event.

I'll do some final(ish) ergo stuff tomorrow, calibrate the new tires & gearing, then hopefully get it off to the tuner for a dyno and map build.

From there, it's a just a few minor things and fitting the body work. I'm hoping to make the N2 track day weekend at Homestead next weekend. I minorly refractured a broken collarbon, actually working on this bike, ironically, so it's a mad dash to see what will be the limiting factor of being ready: the bike or I.

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That exhaust looking realll gooood!

ducaitv2jsn said:

That exhaust looking realll gooood!

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Indeed. Thanks again.

I had the bike dyno'd and tuned yesterday. The tuner uses a Mustang dyno, so it's actually true horsepower, and reads quite a bit lower than the results produced by a Dynojet. According to Mustang, at this HP range, you need to add 10-12% to compare to the Dynojet output numbers. Dynojet isn't a true dyno. It's basically an approximation that uses acceleration, and not based on applying a load. Anyway, I could not be explaining this perfectly, or even understanding it perfectly, but for sure, Mustang will read a lot lower than a Dynojet. I think Mustang vs. Dynojet is a pretty "controversial" subject, at least in the USA, so feel free to look it up and see what you think.

We got 135.03 hp at 10,480 rpm and 68 ft. lbs. torque at 9,200 RPM. Convered, at 110%, that's 148.5 HP, which sounds about right for this stock engine and set up. I am running an OEM filter, because I honestly don't even care about that extra few HP at the moment (if it even gains that much? anyone?), as I will likely end up tuning this bike down with the WSS electronics, so why make it as fast as possible now?

On that note, I was not able to make different maps for the different ride modes / engine power setttings. If you recall, I wanted to try making one on the reduced power mode, as I thought maybe it would closer mimic the WSS ECU settings. So this tuning was all done on Race mode / full engine power. It's a long process, and expensive, doing some good dyno work like this, so I want to get it ready and get on the track and make sure I like it first. I may go back and have a map made on reduced power settings later.

We did raise the rev limiter a bit, from OEM 10.5k to 11.0k, but as you can see, there's no power benefit. I suppose it's good to have that extra room, particularly in a drafting situation, like Daytona, so I'll probably leave it there, if not bring it up a bit more later. Feel free to add your experience in how you set your rev limiter.

We also changed some of the ride-by-wire settings to make it more responsive in the lower and mid range.

All in all, everything went smoothly, and we had no problems with Woolich. This guy is pretty good with Woolich, so that of coure helped. I'll test ride it today and see how it feels. Looking at the charts, and the tuner's input and "feel," we really smoothed things out a lot. Top end was actually pretty close, but it was down low that took the most tuning.

I'm happy to share my Woolich map. It's Spark full system, 93 RoN pump gas, 60 degrees temp, OEM filter. I'd imagine it will get you pretty close, if you have a similar set up. Just remember that this is still kind of a beta test.

No graphs? What was the bike stock?

JBJR said:

We did raise the rev limiter a bit, from OEM 10.5k to 11.0k

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OEM Rev Limit is 11500 already in gears 4-6 and only slightly below in gears N-3. What makes you beliebe it is only 10500?

DeussenEngines said:

OEM Rev Limit is 11500 already in gears 4-6 and only slightly below in gears N-3. What makes you beliebe it is only 10500?
View attachment 53053

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You're exactly right! That was typo on my part. I will edit the comment and correct! I also just got a Hypermotard 950, and I've been messing with it as well, and it's rev limit is 10.5k, so I got confused. Thanks for the correction!

So to clarify, we raised the rev limiter from 11.5k to 12.0k.

JBJR said:

You're exactly right! That was typo on my part. I will edit the comment and correct! I also just got a Hypermotard 950, and I've been messing with it as well, and it's rev limit is 10.5k, so I got confused. Thanks for the correction!

So to clarify, we raised the rev limiter from 11.5k to 12.0k.

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Shoot, I guess you can't edit a comment after a certain amount of time that it's been posted? Anyway, hopefully anyone following the post about rev limiter will read the subsequent posts correcting it!

JBJR said:

You're exactly right! That was typo on my part. I will edit the comment and correct! I also just got a Hypermotard 950, and I've been messing with it as well, and it's rev limit is 10.5k, so I got confused. Thanks for the correction!

So to clarify, we raised the rev limiter from 11.5k to 12.0k.

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I just hope you did the tune on each cylinder individually with two widebands.

Armor Bodies bodywork fitted up, and it came out great. Took some trimming of the radiator plastic mount / structure thing at the bottom, but that's because we put the dzus pretty close to the end. Putting it a little further in could have probably avoided this. And we drilled two extra holes on the top of the tail and lined them up with some bolt threads on the top of the subframe to increase the stability of the tail mount. Without them, it was a bit wobbly. Otherwise, it fits super well. Perfect clearance on the rear sets. We put little spacers mounting the upper to the fairing stay to create a little more room in the cockpit so that the reservoirs cleared better.

I'm still having a problem with a quickshifter, which I think now is a hardware problem, as it's been turned on on the software and showing for up sure. And using the OBDStar to test, Quickshifter is showing the correct voltage in all positions. Something is preventing the signal from being received / adopted by the ECU. I'm thinking it's the clutch lever switch, which I will test today. I did drop the bike when I first got it (the pavement under the kickstand collapsed, if you can believe that...), and the clutch lever was bent and the switch came off, so I'm hoping that's it.

I slightly refractured my shoulder, so I had to pull out of Homestead this weekend. So it will unfortunately be another few weeks before I get to take it to a track. Which I guess is ok as I'll have time to work the QS and really go through things one more time or two.

I may add a Racetorx shift shaft enforcer. And I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the front master cylinder. I don't like the travel and feel of the lever. I suppose I'll try it on the track first, but I suspect it will need to go. I like the Brembo MK2 19x18, generally.

I was going to wait a track day or two before I upgraded the suspension, but I may go ahead and get it ordered. Suspension guy wants Ohlins, so that's probably what I'll do.

Oh, and I have a sticker kit coming from Drippin' Wet with number plates, sponsors and some graphics. Chris usually comes up with cool stuff, and I basically came with free reign, so we'll see.

We're just a quick sprint to the end! I thought I'd throw in some pics of the testing I was doing on the clutch switch. New switch will be on soon.

I got the lap timer on. It secures with this rubber expansion wedge, which is really a great concept. When the bracket is too hard to get on and off, it sucks, as it's great to just pull off the whole unit for charging, and not having to deal with those tiny screws to get it off the bracket. I'll be changing the Solo2 to a Solo2 DL -- at some point!

Little, colored Ti bolts on the oil filter cap look cool!

I need to replace the front sprocket bolt with a Ti, or at least drilled one. Do anyone know its length? I know its an M10 x 1.25.

New master cylinder next week.

Hey hey, I have a ton of V2 race parts for sale if you’re interested. Ohlins ttx rear, belly pan for Akra exhaust, aluminum fairing stay, brake lines, etc.

Mattysals said:

Hey hey, I have a ton of V2 race parts for sale if you’re interested. Ohlins ttx rear, belly pan for Akra exhaust, aluminum fairing stay, brake lines, etc.

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Yes! Dibs on the fairing stay and Ohlins, and likely brake lines. PM'ing now.

I replaced the OEM brake with a Brembo MK2 19x18 and re-routed the reservoir. Unfortunately, I'm not able to fit the master, the starter switch and the throttle housing all on the bar. I could move the bar out further and "make" it fit, but I like the length of the bars as is and don't want to do that. I'm sure there's a way it could be done, likely relocating the reservoir further inside the cockpit, but I made this an opportunity to upgrade to an aluminum, all-in-one, starter / Jet Prime throttle housing. It looks cool and should hold up better in a crash. It should be there today.

I also put a remote adjuster on. I really like these Bonamici ones. But, like most remote adjusters, they only sometime fit your application, as they need a lot of unencumbered room in the cockpit to be installed, and work, properly. Luckily, it fits great on the V2. At least with my set up.

Right hand control / throttle housing on. Definity a cool unit. A little tricky to install, as the wires don't go where you think they would, but came out great. The only thing that I don't like is that there is no indication is the kill switch is off or on. I don't really use it, and just use the main ignition switch, but still. You think they'd but a little LED or something.

Bike is pretty much done. For now... Just waiting on stickers. I'll test the bike in it's current form and go from there.

I'm assuming that I'll want a slipper clutch, so planning on that. Chime in, if you have experience with it.

I'll also do a quick change rear sprocket carrier in the next month or two. Just waiting to get a feel of what sprockets I'll want, first.

And the ram air.

And data logging stuff.

The clutch master feels alright, but I don't like how it has the long lever, as its current positioning is cramping the left side and making it so I can't bring the bar in further. So I may swap that out for an after-market one at some point.

Feel free to add suggestions of things that maybe I've missed for a race bike.

Suter slipper clutch is the way to go

Mattysals said:

Suter slipper clutch is the way to go

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Is it hard to adjust / tune? Did you set it once, or do you make changes to it often?

JBJR said:

Is it hard to adjust / tune? Did you set it once, or do you make changes to it often?

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No it’s super easy. I have one on my r6. Adjusting the slip is as simple as changing the cup spring inside, which the clutch cones with a few different weights. You just need to be pretty precise on your measurements of the stack height during install. Once you figure it out it’s pretty easy. I pull mine out and make sure it’s all within spec after every race weekend. Takes about 10 minutes

Mattysals said:

No it’s super easy. I have one on my r6. Adjusting the slip is as simple as changing the cup spring inside, which the clutch cones with a few different weights. You just need to be pretty precise on your measurements of the stack height during install. Once you figure it out it’s pretty easy. I pull mine out and make sure it’s all within spec after every race weekend. Takes about 10 minutes

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It actually sounds tricky, lol. But I do appreciate that. I'd probably need some help installing and checking.

Do you have a V2 / V4, also?

I finally got this V2 out on the track, and man, it's amazing. I was still feeling things out, but even first day on it, and coming back from an injury, I wasn't too far off my best pace at a local track. Especially coming from FZ07 / R7 Twins Cup "race bikes," this thing feels like it was actually meant to be on the track. Everything about it feels incredible. I can't wait to go back next weekend and really push it.

I did have some minor things to tend to. For one, as a lot of people also felt, the Translogic Quickshifter was far too sensitive for my taste. So, after one session, I replaced it with the OEM one and thought that was much better. (I will put it for sale on here soon). I also had a bolt back out on the linkage, which caused the linkage to jam up, which I think broke the OEM quick shifter. It's cutting fuel / ignition without any engagement. I should have unplugged it to test, but I forgot. I'm getting a new one today and will test this week. Hopefully that's it. I think it has to be, as that's the only thing that was changed, and the only thing that came loose had had some undesired force on it.

Tuning was badass. We have the O2 sensors back on the bike, which allows it to adjust for temp, humidify, etc., and makes the bike idle like it should. There are a few times when I start up that the idle gets kind of high, and you can tell the system is "rethinking" the conditions, but it sorts itself out right away, and is great on the track. Running R/M 93 pump gas.

Gearing was probably too short. I had -1 / 0. This is a medium size track, with a decent length straight, on which I was pinning fifth. I wasn't hitting the rev limiter much, but I could tell that I was out of the "meat" range of the torque and HP, so I want to gear it where I'm not getting out of that 10-11k range much. I may even change the rev limiter back -500, to OEM settings (11.5k). I don't see any benefit of having it like this, unless I'm trying to wind things out to win a head to head. The only other combo I have right now is 0 / 0, so I'll try that. I'm ordering a quick change sprocket kit, with a lot of sprockets, this week. It's probably too early to say definitively, but I don't think I'll be gearing this short anywhere again. At the very least, I think -1 / -1. But that's just my [far too early] conjecture. I'll try some more tracks and see.

Brakes kick ass. I was having a little fade, but that's to be expected at a certain pace. I have a remote adjuster and it worked out ok. I may try some EBC Contour rotors later and see what that does. I tend to like those the best, as they are the lightest. Or at least are for the R6

Suspension is surprisingly very good. I miraculously set the bike up just right and didn't make one adjustment yesterday. I'm sure I will as I pick up pace, but it's great where it is, at the movement. I'm going to let things ride a bit with this OEM suspension until I feel I'm having a problem, or just want a change.

No fuel gauge is the worst. Geez.

Geometry seems good like it is. I just can't believe how good this bike feels "out of the box."

Yesterday it was in the mid 70s (F), and the bike ran at the right temperature (gets in to the 220s, but that was even happening on the street, in 50 degrees.) I'm glad that I left the fan on, and lowered its operating temperature. Fan was coming on a lot. Good. Hopefully this will be good enough going forward and not need the expensive, aftermarket radiator.

My electronics settings were at the OEM "Race Mode" settings. I may try to back off DTC one notch, as well as wheelie control one notch. I didn't feel either kicking in, but I've never ridden a bike with them before, so I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like.

Auto blip downshifting is life-changing. I can brake later and focus more on the turn as my brain has one less thing to calculate.

Tire wear was excellent.

Clip ons / rear sets / ergos in general, were just right. Not one adjustment. Can't believe it.

I'm not sure how I'm going to go back to Twins Cup racing after this bike. I'm going to get the WSS electronics ASAP and try to make Atlanta at MotoAmerica. Maybe do both classes. I'm racing club in two weeks, at my local track. We'll see how it goes.

More details on the Translogic quick shifter please!

I was planning on buying one, but what issues did you see? What do you mean too sensitive? Like you barely touch the peg and it cuts power (as if it’s thinking you’re wanting to upshift)?