V2 MotoAmerica Race Bike Build

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Super cools stuff!!!! Titanium axles are for sure not elligible for any SSP/Moto America platform. Fully open SBK only maybe.....

I have managed to get my V2 right at 180kg with a full tank of fuel and forged OZ wheels with fresh slicks. And that includes the AIM Dash/DAQ system with suspension travel, tire pressure, wideband lamda, oil temp....

There fore sure are some kg left to be found but it is getting really pricey from here on out....

Ciao,

Daniel

I'm shooting for 180kg. But MotoAmerica superstock, you have to run OEM wheels.
 
Hi, Daniel. Thanks for all of that. I've heard good things about you / Deussen on the forum, and I appreciate the offer.

I hear you on the radiator. I'm going to see if I can get away without it, and leave the fan on, but I think you're right that I'll probably need it.

I'm actually working with HSBK on my build parts, but I again appreicate the offer. They are the main Ducati team here in the USA, and I know the team principal well.

I have a local tuner that I was going to work with, but if you have a tune that mimics the WSS tune, I could be up for that. What tuning program do you use? I just ordered Woolich, so maybe it's too late?

Merry Christmas to you, too. I love Germany.

JB

Depending on your exhaust choice you may not be able to retain the fan. With both Spark and Akrapovic Supersport exhaust systems there is no room for the fan shrout anymore. And anyways for any sanctioned racing class you are likely to have to run a closed belly pan.

I develop my own maps and can distribute them worldwide with Dimsport MyGenius Handheld flashers. I have a US-Arizona based business partner that stocks and sells them for me for north- and south american markets.

You can give Woolich a try. I have looked at the maps they put in their software and really their labeling is far off from what the maps really do

Reach out if you do end up needing an H2O radiator or SSP Akra system. At the moment I have stock of both of those parts.

Ciao,

Daniel
 
I'm shooting for 180kg. But MotoAmerica superstock, you have to run OEM wheels.

The wheels make almost exactly 2kg difference. You will need Aviofiber fairing, aluminum subframe, aluminum fuel tank and the Akra SSP exhaust to even get close to the 180kg.
 
Depending on your exhaust choice you may not be able to retain the fan. With both Spark and Akrapovic Supersport exhaust systems there is no room for the fan shrout anymore. And anyways for any sanctioned racing class you are likely to have to run a closed belly pan.

I develop my own maps and can distribute them worldwide with Dimsport MyGenius Handheld flashers. I have a US-Arizona based business partner that stocks and sells them for me for north- and south american markets.

You can give Woolich a try. I have looked at the maps they put in their software and really their labeling is far off from what the maps really do

Reach out if you do end up needing an H2O radiator or SSP Akra system. At the moment I have stock of both of those parts.

Ciao,

Daniel

The Spark says that you can fit the fan with modification to the shroud. But good point on the belly pan. Does the fan get in the way and need to be removed to fit? I hadn't looked at it.

Here's my calculations for the weight loss (in lbs.)

441 wet weight.
  • Passenger pegs: -2.0
  • LW battery: -6.5
  • Ignition key: -.5
  • Gas cap lock: -.5
  • Braking rear rotator: -.5
  • LW hub, Ducabike axle nuts and carrier (and chain): -2.0
  • Full exhaust: -20.0
  • Headlight: -4
  • Tail light: -2
  • Tail fender: -1.8
  • Misc. plastic ........: -2.0
  • Evap delete: -1.5
  • Lever guards: +1.5
  • Sidestand: -1.5
Total: -43.3
Net: 394.7
 
You can fit some Spark systems with the fan but not the Supersport specific version.
Your weight savings may be a bit too optimistic. 180kg race ready with a full tank is achievable but may require some more modified parts than you have listed.
 
You can fit some Spark systems with the fan but not the Supersport specific version.
Your weight savings may be a bit too optimistic. 180kg race ready with a full tank is achievable but may require some more modified parts than you have listed.

Got ya. Then maybe it weighs more than 440 wet, because I'm nearly 100% sure about all of those listed weight reductions, as I've either measured them myself or seen videos of them done. 44 lbs loss is pretty easy to do. And that's not even counting if I have to drop the fan.
 
Super cools stuff!!!! Titanium axles are for sure not elligible for any SSP/Moto America platform. Fully open SBK only maybe.....

I have managed to get my V2 right at 180kg with a full tank of fuel and forged OZ wheels with fresh slicks. And that includes the AIM Dash/DAQ system with suspension travel, tire pressure, wideband lamda, oil temp....

There fore sure are some kg left to be found but it is getting really pricey from here on out....

Ciao,

Daniel

I'm not planning on racing it it's really just a track bike, i just enjoy making parts and playing with bikes, im 60 and semi retired so this sort of stuff keeps me busy.
 
Did lots of stuff today:
  • Removed all fairings, head light, tail section, and pretty much all plastics.
  • Removed evap canister and lines (still need to plug with rubber caps and install block off elec plug, when it gets here)
  • Removed OEM clip ons. Partially installed Woodcraft ones. Having a hard time getting the OEM right bar off. What's the trick -- file down the little peg? Take apart the throttle housing more? Unscrew the bar end weight? I will post pics.
  • Removed OEM steering damper and installed Ohlins one. Put some nylon washers in there for some cushion and motion restriction. I hate when they're too loose and flopping around.
  • Removed ignition and put keyless kit back together. I'll install later.
  • Removed O2 sensors from bungs
  • Nearly have the OEM exhaust dropped, but I striped out one bolt and need to figure out how to get to it.
  • Removed sprocket cover and replaced OEM 15t with after market 14t.
  • Installed GB clutch cover
  • Removed both front and rear wheel. Sent to shop to have slicks mounted
  • Removed damaged tail / seat "locker" (will replace with new one that arrived)
  • Started pulling off the radiator
  • Learned a lot...
I started a separate thread, but it seems there was a bit of a hatchet job on this wiring harness. At least just on the tail section. There should be a connector for the tail light, and there is not. I'm going to go back and see exactly what was done, but it looks like I need to cut it off.

I need to remove the gas tank but don't understand those special hose clamps that attach the drain lines (same clamps that are on the evap). How do I get those off? I guess I need a special pair of pliers?

And what is a good thing to use to plug off the evap canister hose spots on the engine block? Just order some generic rubber nipples?

Any help would be appreciated. This is my first time on this bike and first time doing a build mostly on my own...

JB
 

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More pics.
 

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Did lots of stuff today:
  • Removed all fairings, head light, tail section, and pretty much all plastics.
  • Removed evap canister and lines (still need to plug with rubber caps and install block off elec plug, when it gets here)
  • Removed OEM clip ons. Partially installed Woodcraft ones. Having a hard time getting the OEM right bar off. What's the trick -- file down the little peg? Take apart the throttle housing more? Unscrew the bar end weight? I will post pics.
  • Removed OEM steering damper and installed Ohlins one. Put some nylon washers in there for some cushion and motion restriction. I hate when they're too loose and flopping around.
  • Removed ignition and put keyless kit back together. I'll install later.
  • Removed O2 sensors from bungs
  • Nearly have the OEM exhaust dropped, but I striped out one bolt and need to figure out how to get to it.
  • Removed sprocket cover and replaced OEM 15t with after market 14t.
  • Installed GB clutch cover
  • Removed both front and rear wheel. Sent to shop to have slicks mounted
  • Removed damaged tail / seat "locker" (will replace with new one that arrived)
  • Started pulling off the radiator
  • Learned a lot...
I started a separate thread, but it seems there was a bit of a hatchet job on this wiring harness. At least just on the tail section. There should be a connector for the tail light, and there is not. I'm going to go back and see exactly what was done, but it looks like I need to cut it off.

I need to remove the gas tank but don't understand those special hose clamps that attach the drain lines (same clamps that are on the evap). How do I get those off? I guess I need a special pair of pliers?

And what is a good thing to use to plug off the evap canister hose spots on the engine block? Just order some generic rubber nipples?

Any help would be appreciated. This is my first time on this bike and first time doing a build mostly on my own...

JB

Use a screwdriver and just twist where they join and they will separate, you can then reuse
 
Depending on your exhaust choice you may not be able to retain the fan. With both Spark and Akrapovic Supersport exhaust systems there is no room for the fan shrout anymore. And anyways for any sanctioned racing class you are likely to have to run a closed belly pan.

I develop my own maps and can distribute them worldwide with Dimsport MyGenius Handheld flashers. I have a US-Arizona based business partner that stocks and sells them for me for north- and south american markets.

You can give Woolich a try. I have looked at the maps they put in their software and really their labeling is far off from what the maps really do

Reach out if you do end up needing an H2O radiator or SSP Akra system. At the moment I have stock of both of those parts.

Ciao,

Daniel

Woolich will be used to make a custom map, using a dyno. Not just pulling their generic, out of the box solution. That's what my tuner uses and we've made good maps on other bikes before.
 
More stuff done today:
  • Drained fuel tank and cleaned out the inside; reinstalled on frame
  • Assembled Woodcraft rear sets and mocked-up installation. Need to make final adjustments and tighten.
  • Assembled Translogic QS and mocked-up its installation with the WC rear sets.
  • Changed oil & filter.
  • Drilled some spots for safety wiring oil-related fasteners and subbed some titanium bolts with pre-drilled holes.
  • Used bolts to plug evap canister vacuum lines in the engine case.
  • Pulled sound insulation from intake.
  • Installed new tail ("locker")
  • Removed most of SAI.
  • Keyless ignition on.
  • Solo 2 mount and timer on.
  • Found a wiring rats nest in the tail section and pulled it apart. Likely has something to do with why QS isn't working. I will likely bring it to Ducati next week and have them sort it out. It looks like all that happened was that the brake light was spliced in. But it's worth having someone with better electrical chops and V2 knowledge than me investigate further. Again bike was never showing any CELs. And nothing was not working.
 

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Save yourself the time and money and scratch the dealer trip. You’ll need it for the mandatory MA WSS600 accoutrements which will run you upwards of $5k for the kit. You won’t be able to run a Woolich tune in MA. It’s a canned torque limited map from Solo.

https://soloengineering.com/product/world-supersport-next-generation-control-electronics-kit/
Included is a race harness so you’ll be able to just ditch the entire stock one.

Might be worth checking out the rules before you proceed further. 2.5.9.2 and .3 is very important

http://www.motoamericaregistration....America Technical Regulations Provisional.pdf
 
I liked the very old Formula USA rules, where you could show up with a bike and as long as it had two wheels it was legal. There were some wild bikes built in that series. Turbo bikes included based on the CBR900 RR and two strokers going at it. Lots of other variations too.
 
Save yourself the time and money and scratch the dealer trip. You’ll need it for the mandatory MA WSS600 accoutrements which will run you upwards of $5k for the kit. You won’t be able to run a Woolich tune in MA. It’s a canned torque limited map from Solo.

https://soloengineering.com/product/world-supersport-next-generation-control-electronics-kit/
Included is a race harness so you’ll be able to just ditch the entire stock one.

Might be worth checking out the rules before you proceed further. 2.5.9.2 and .3 is very important

http://www.motoamericaregistration....America Technical Regulations Provisional.pdf

Hey, thanks for all of that. I kind of outline my plan in the build thread. I'm going to do some track days and club racing on this bike first and get used to it before I fully go MotoAmerica with it. But you're right in that I need that electronics package if I go MotoAmerica. And you are right that Woolich can't be used for that -- only club.

In fact, I may just keep this the club bike and have a brand new V2 build for MotoAmerica. I'll see how I do!

Thanks again for your help!
 

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