V4 owners - 15w50 oil reports with testing - Motul 300v / Redline Power Sports / Motul 7100 - Part 1

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yes, and I was afraid you would say that because even though I won't do a lot of kilometers per year (about 2000km) there will be a lot of heating cycles. As for redline, they will not deliver it directly from the official website but I found a couple of stores in Europe that have it in stock, but the price is expected to be a bit more expensive, $31, and again, I don't know how long it stays on the shelf in the store and is it really important or am I exaggerating
Another good thing is that it's the middle of winter here and I won't be driving for at least 2 months, so I have time to wait for your new results :)

Its as important as how much you are willing to spend on an engine replacement in the future. 31$ x4 quarts is a lot friendlier on the wallet than a brand new Desmosedici Stradale. The good news is that the data is all here for a lot of the oils used for these engines , even the OEM shell trash was proven its not effective for protection.

For street riding Redline @ 1000-2000 miles & for Racing on a track for one day 300V.
 
I used to think the same thing about Loctite on things that were not as critical as oil or axle nuts. As you know, you have red and blue Loctite. Red being permanent. Neither Loctite should ever be used on titanium. Only special “never seize” meant for titanium. Putting Loctite on aluminum bolts will also end badly. Especially Allen bolts. Even standard steel Allen bolts with red Loctite will be a hassle. As I’m sure you’re well aware of, rounding out an Allen bolt is a hassle. One trick to avoid rounding out Allen bolt’s is to always use fresh, undamaged Allen wrenches with a dab of Valve Grinding Compound on the Allen wrench. The compound takes up the tiny slop between the bolt and wrench. A Hand Impact driver you hit with a hammer is good for breaking loose stubborn Allen bolts. Since you may not know if the Allen bolt has Loctite, it’s better to start with compound and/or the Hand Impact before you bugger up the Allen hole. I don’t really care for Allen bolts. Whenever possible, I replace them with titanium or aluminum Torx bolts. For younger riders, Torx bolts are less prone to rounding out than Allen bolts.
Which gets me to the merits of Loctite. I still use thread locker in certain situations. I prefer “omniFIT 100”. It never hardens. It’s also designed to grip in oily conditions. It’s more expensive, but a tube last for years. Another major benefit is it prevents dissimilar metals from galling together over time. I recently bought the Ducati e mountain bike. Like WSBK mechanic’s, I always take apart a new motorcycle and put it back together properly. As I did the same thing to the e-bike, I noticed every one of the aluminum screws was already galled. It was nearly impossible to remove the factory installed screws. I replaced all of them with titanium or stainless steel. Never Seize on all of them. Most were Philips screws, which I replaced with Torx. I’m belaboring these points for new riders who are under the impression that everything new from the factory is hunky dory. Manufacturer’s have to cut cost someplace, and this is a common place. The owner checks that everything is tight and thinks they’re good to go. Try to take it apart in 3 years and you’ll need a sledgehammer and blowtorch.
I’m not criticizing anyone. I did the same things before I gradually learned about different and better ways. I appreciate anyone who offers a better way. I love learning a new trick of the trade. I know I’ve drifted away from the original oil subject and into the ways of keeping the oil where it belongs.
Red loctite breaks down with heat. Personally I only use it on steel bolts and rarely, won't consider using it for other materials. There's is an oil resistant version of loctite also (Ducati uses the medium strength version inside the engines in various places). Case nuts etc, I never use loctite, but I use a the blue a lot on perpherial stuff like body parts. Be careful with the use of anti seize on stuff like spark plugs where they'll end up being assembled for a long time. The stuff will harden from the heat cycles and become a major PITA to disassemble. The only thing I consistently use high temp red is on the big clutch and crank nuts. If you know the history of Ducati relative to the constant redesign of those you'll know why I do this. Heat them with a torch to take them off. Ohlins uses high temp red to retain the ends on the cartridges and the main bushings on these use a high temp heat gun. I am a big fan of Ducati but I simply feel better after I've assembled them. Particularly the motors.
 
I saw Valvoline makes a 15-50 motorcycle oil. Hadn't see a major manufacturer in that weight before. Any testing done there?
 
I saw Valvoline makes a 15-50 motorcycle oil. Hadn't see a major manufacturer in that weight before. Any testing done there?
Its going to be API / EPA certified, safe for the earth , laughable protection for your engine. Wont be much better than the shell stuff. Keep away from it. Use Redline powersport 15/50 instead.
 
Its going to be API / EPA certified, safe for the earth , laughable protection for your engine. Wont be much better than the shell stuff. Keep away from it. Use Redline powersport 15/50 instead.
Thanks. Redline is also hard to find.
 
Valvoline makes a great oil for cars. Restore and Protect. Highly recommend it. Put it in my 130k 4Runner and engine runs so much quieter. 1GR-FE is a notoriously noisy engine w its valvetrain.
If there is one oil that’s epa certified I can recommend for a daily it’s definitely the restore and protect. I vouch for this product on a daily driver as well. Cleans the engine very very well.

 
Bullsh*t.

Pure hyperbole.
IMG_7986.jpeg

I originally intended to ignore your comment. Why anyone would exaggerate motorcycle deaths was beyond me? Google California motorcycle deaths and you’ll find close to 700 per year. As if that’s not tragic enough, these two articles appeared in today’s paper. The second article is particularly gruesome for January in Northern California.
The point of my original comments about safety wire was to emphasize anything we can do that reduces the inherent dangers while riding a motorcycle. Be it on a racetrack, public roads, or offroad, I’ve never considered there to be much difference in the attention to details.
Maybe it’s just me, but I thoroughly despise Emergency Rooms, ICU’s, ambulances, Operating Rooms, Physical Therapy, wheelchairs, insurance companies, crutches, and Funeral Homes most of all. If spending extra time in my garage yields even a 1% reduction in my risk while riding, I’ll do it.
 
What you wrote was:

VYRUS said:
I live in a major city, and there’s a fatal motorcycle accident practically every day.

Which is pure bullsh*t. You seem to be knowledgeable about oil, but when you go past those left right limits, you aren't as credible.

If you Google "California motorcycle deaths," which I don't think you did, these are the results. To think one city in California has a fatal motorcycle accident nearly every day is pure hyperbole.

1736797763632.png
 
What you wrote was:



Which is pure bullsh*t. You seem to be knowledgeable about oil, but when you go past those left right limits, you aren't as credible.

If you Google "California motorcycle deaths," which I don't think you did, these are the results. To think one city in California has a fatal motorcycle accident nearly every day is pure hyperbole.

View attachment 59242
I wonder if this is lower due to the wide spread use of electronics. When I lived in the California bay area (left in early 2000's) there were about 4 to 6 sportbike deaths a year on highway 84 alone which goes from Alice's restaurant to the coast (fine twisty road). So, it ended up over patrolled.
 
Google search results are all over the place but I wouldn’t suspect electronics would have a huge impact.

Most of the motorcycle fatalities I read about are Harley riders where alcohol was a contributing factor.
 
I had read somewhere that 35 to 55 males on large displacement motorcycles made up the majority of fatalities. These are usually older guys with disposable income on large Harleys.

J
 
Harley riders without helmets drive up the numbers for sure. Add alcohol to that and it’s the lion share of the stats.

Not that it can’t happen to anyone, but fear mongering isn’t to be tolerated.
 
Harley riders without helmets drive up the numbers for sure. Add alcohol to that and it’s the lion share of the stats.

Not that it can’t happen to anyone, but fear mongering isn’t to be tolerated.
The Hurt report from the early 80's said pretty much the same thing. Inexperience, a new bike, and alcohol or drugs.
 
I had read somewhere that 35 to 55 males on large displacement motorcycles made up the majority of fatalities. These are usually older guys with disposable income on large Harleys.

J
A lot of those are guys who have never road and then decide they want to play one percenter. I have a couple of ugly stories about these idiots, one I watched and one I came upon.
 
The Hurt report from the early 80's said pretty much the same thing. Inexperience, a new bike, and alcohol or drugs.
I love that this is called the Hurt report. I do a lot of stupid stuff but one thing I never do is drink and ride. Pot, speed and acid are all more sensible. The sheriff got 8 harleys guys drunk one day. Where I live you have to work at getting a DUI.
 
I dumped my 500mile redline 15w-50 this weekend, took 300cc sample and sent off to Speed D.

The flacks and gold i noted in the pervious dump were no where to be found, happy about that!
My super mag on the drain plug also had Zero debris for the very first time, happy about that too.

Will share report once i have it from speed. It was 514 very hard miles, I feel like my weekend blast days are on par with a single track day use/rpm wise..

Will be interesting to see how long this oil is good for...nice to finally start having some data for once too

Jag
 
I dumped my 500mile redline 15w-50 this weekend, took 300cc sample and sent off to Speed D.

The flacks and gold i noted in the pervious dump were no where to be found, happy about that!
My super mag on the drain plug also had Zero debris for the very first time, happy about that too.

Will share report once i have it from speed. It was 514 very hard miles, I feel like my weekend blast days are on par with a single track day use/rpm wise..

Will be interesting to see how long this oil is good for...nice to finally start having some data for once too

Jag
I think it's a good idea to record the idle oil pressure (hooking up a real gauge) of these with fresh oil fully warmed up when these are fairly new. Then you have a reference and can got back every major service and check the pressure again with fresh oil. I think replacing the early oil pump with the latest rev (25's) isn't going to hurt anything. The motors have space such that ducati could have increased either the feed or scavenge or both. Curious to see what they did. I'm going to buy one when the part numbers are up. The motor (14K miles) I have on the bench had a bent (about .001 inch runout) middle main that opened up bearing clearances on the all the mains, center one being the worse of course. But even that bearing was not completely into the copper before it spun a rod bearing. So, my concern is this may be a common problem with these with the early pumps even with an okay motor when the mileage gets high.
 

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