Valve cover oil leak.. 1199 panigale s

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Will1d

Joined
Mar 9, 2018
Messages
18
Location
Sydney, NSW
I have an 1199s and iv had the same issues with valve cover leaking less than 1000km after repair.. is there an after marker rubber seal that is more reliable the the oem ducati rubber seal
 
Every duc I have owned has leaked from the valve covers. I think that big twin rattles it loose over time.
 
Well,
Due to an overwhelming number of request (I'm sure they weren't sarcastic :rolleyes:) below is a link to the Athena gaskets and the particular sealant that works best.
The reason for the PM was due to a lack of ability to upload any descent pics.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Athena-...017466&hash=item2120e3c5f9:g:XOAAAOSwzppaGGlG

The reason I switched gaskets was because:
1. They're Athena..race quality.
2. I don't believe in using gaskets twice.

The sealant you need is Threebond 1215. I bought mine from Bursons Autos.

What I did find when I did mine was that all the bolts were under torqued, but held fast with loctite.

Vertical one is easy, so easy my 7year old did most of it but the horizontal unit will require the radiator to come off. Not a technically hard job just time consuming (see pic).
 

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Pm me if
You need proper bolts ;)

XcW9Co3.jpg
 
Hi, I'ved got to do this job after my last track day. Can you tell me where you smeared the sealant? Was it all around the head mating surface or only at the sharp edges such as the semi circular cutouts at the end of the camshafts? The reason I ask is the manual does not specify the use of sealant.

Regards,

Yoshi.
 
Sorry forgot to ask if you also replaced the inner camshaft cover seal around the spark plug holes?
 
tteitei said:
Hi, I'ved got to do this job after my last track day. Can you tell me where you smeared the sealant? Was it all around the head mating surface or only at the sharp edges such as the semi circular cutouts at the end of the camshafts? The reason I ask is the manual does not specify the use of sealant.

Regards,

Yoshi.
Click to expand...

I used sealant on the entire mating surface just to cover my bases. Vertical cylinder hasn't leaked since.

Need to fix the leak on my horizontal but I'm being really lazy about pulling my radiator.
 
Will1d said:
I haven't received any pm's??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hi mate,

I thought the above picture and description would have been enough.

1. After cleaning I sprayed sealing area with brake clean and wiped dry with microfibrecloth.
2. I very carefuly squeezed out a small bead on the rocker cover and then inserted new gasket to cover, pressing in gasket to recess.
3. With microfibre cloth I wiped any potential residue off the engine cover.
4. I placed a bead of sealant (3-5mm wide) especially around the corners and rocker shaft scollaped out parts on the gasket. I let it sit for 30 mins.
5. Carfeully placed on engine head, inserted 5 bolt (smear of loctite) and torqued bolts to 5/8/10 NM.
6. Wiped off excess sealant.

No I didn't put any gasket goo on the internal spark plug seal.

Cheers
 
Just FYI
The blue loctite on valve cover bolts have done there job, nothing loose.

I did leave for 24hrs before starting the bike, done 1000kms.
 
Always a good idea to replace the gaskets if the valve covers are cracked open for any reason. Threebond is used under the internal gasket, the gasket which seals around the spark plug well. For the external gasket, Threebond is only used where the flat portion of the gasket surface meets the half-circle portions of the gasket surface... and then only in very small amounts (see attached). Above and beyond using a threadlocker on the cover fastener threads, which is not a bad idea, is to make sure that the fasteners are properly torqued and torqued in the recommended sequence. If you crank down on a fastener hoping to prevent or cure a leak and distort the cover (if even ever so slightly), you'll increase the amount of oil seeping from the cover.
 

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jock39racer said:
Hi mate,



I thought the above picture and description would have been enough.



1. After cleaning I sprayed sealing area with brake clean and wiped dry with microfibrecloth.

2. I very carefuly squeezed out a small bead on the rocker cover and then inserted new gasket to cover, pressing in gasket to recess.

3. With microfibre cloth I wiped any potential residue off the engine cover.

4. I placed a bead of sealant (3-5mm wide) especially around the corners and rocker shaft scollaped out parts on the gasket. I let it sit for 30 mins.

5. Carfeully placed on engine head, inserted 5 bolt (smear of loctite) and torqued bolts to 5/8/10 NM.

6. Wiped off excess sealant.



No I didn't put any gasket goo on the internal spark plug seal.



Cheers
Click to expand...



Thank you



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did this job this weekend and found the following on my 1199s;

1) Both front and rear valve covers were leaking, the front from 3K and the rear only recently at 10K. Bike has done 5 track days.
2) Both were leaking at the lower edge of the gasket, not around the camshaft cut outs.
3) Both original gaskets were not damaged in any way that I could see
4) Front cover bolts were tight, the rear possibly under torqued
5) Replaced both gaskets and used gasket sealant all around the gasket, not just the cutouts

Took around 8 hours and it's pretty straightforward after the advice given by the forum members. Also had time to modify the Tuneboy fan control settings while I was at it. Should help to keep the temperature down. BTW the 1199S thermo fan settings are the same as the SL at 103C on, 102C off. I changed to 100C on, 98C off.

Regards,

Yoshi
 
tteitei said:
I did this job this weekend and found the following on my 1199s;

1) Both front and rear valve covers were leaking, the front from 3K and the rear only recently at 10K. Bike has done 5 track days.
2) Both were leaking at the lower edge of the gasket, not around the camshaft cut outs.
3) Both original gaskets were not damaged in any way that I could see
4) Front cover bolts were tight, the rear possibly under torqued
5) Replaced both gaskets and used gasket sealant all around the gasket, not just the cutouts

Took around 8 hours and it's pretty straightforward after the advice given by the forum members. Also had time to modify the Tuneboy fan control settings while I was at it. Should help to keep the temperature down. BTW the 1199S thermo fan settings are the same as the SL at 103C on, 102C off. I changed to 100C on, 98C off.

Regards,

Yoshi
Click to expand...

Top stuff mate. I'm glad it worked out.
 

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