FWIW,
I would not recommend doing a "dry" wash on a Ducat, or any painted surface where longevity of shine is a concern...
Want to see something scary... google a microscopic picture of pollen. Want to consider something scarier... wiping that off your paint with the assistance of lubricant which hopefully can encapsulate enough of the particulate to avoid those little medieval maces from dragging across your paint... Keep going with scary? Knowing that a microfiber towel will never release said pollen, and it will build up in the towel you use.
Even scarier than the nightmare above? Pollen isn't even close to the most abrasive thing you are wiping off your paint. Certain dusts can be unbelievably abrasive... Road film (pulverized concert dust mixed with petroleum) are terrible... Iron oxide from brake application? No thanks...
If the goal is to simply clean something? Then by all means, spray and wipe your way to bliss. Most spray and wipes have some type of wax or silicone content that will fill in the microscopic scratches you are inducing into the paint while you clean, so as long as you clean often and keep that greasy layer on there you may never know the difference.. Until the scratches become so frequent and deep that the wax cannot hide them completely... Or, with enough time, the constant blanketing of scratches over scratches thins the clear coat too much...
However if the goal is long-term preservation of the gloss and the paint itself, then I would suggest we shift gears in our thinking. Clean isn't good enough (this can be accomplished with toilet paper and water, if you really wanted), but rather how do we clean in a way that doesn't abrade the surface. EVERYTHING on your paint is a little microscopic abrasive, just waiting to grind against your finish and sand it down for you..
First, water...Flooding the surface with some volume of water can float these little abrasive fuckers away from the paint and aid in cleaning... But water doesn't penetrate enough around the particulate nor is it slick enough (anybody who has tried to procreate in a pool or hot tub knows what I am saying)... What makes water wetter? Generally surfactants... In other words, soaps and particular polymers.
So rinse the bike first, with lots of water. Get a large (5-gallon bucket) and fill it with about 4 -gallons of water. Then add the recommended amount of soap, and use the jet of water from the nozzle to mix the solution. Some soaps will suds more than others, but this is not a measure of quality. In fact, the suds are something that is added to the solution to make people like it more. Who doesn't like bubbles?
So what kind of soap? Well, that depends, but a quality automotive soap is fine. If we are going the store bought route, there are tons of options. What do I look for in a soap? Rinseability. I like a soap that I can leave on the surface a little too long and rinse, and it comes right off without leaving a film that kills water beading and makes drying tedious. There are lots of options, most automotive soaps are going to contain polymers or waxes to add some small amount of protection and (potentially) gloss. Just find one that rinses easy. And USE THE RIGHT AMOUNT... Too much soap in the solution costs money and it can make it hard to rinse off...
If we want to add even more protection to the wash process we can use a second bucket, add a grit guard to the bucket, or both. Why a second bucket? You probably wouldn't wash your Ducati with a soapy bucket filled with beach sand, right? Well, every time you get some dirt on your wash media it is released in your wash bucket when you dip it for more soap.
A second bucket, filled with just water, can be used as a trap... Pick up soap from wash bucket, wash a small section, rinse wash towel / mitt in rinse bucket to release dirt, pick up fresh soap.. Its easy, its cheap, and it works...
A grit guard is a special vented grate which helps any dirt that is released from your wash mitt / towel from swirling backing into the wash solution. I use one in each bucket, but I'm crazy.
So what should you wash the bike with then? A mitt, a towel, what? Well, I don't like microfiber anything for washing dirt, because microfiber is very grabby. It can be hard to the dirt, pollen, road dust, to release very well. However, on mostly clean surfaces I love microfiber (good microfiber, not .... from Costco). A natural lamb's wool wash mitt or a very soft sponge will work perfectly fine for cleaning dirty surfaces.
What do dry with? Well this is a tricky question, to be honest. Before I tackle it, lets considered a few things. Anything that is rough to your skin, is rougher to the paint. If it doesn't feel nice when scrubbed against your arm, don't use it..
Second, water is viscous. You can actually use a low pressure stream of water to remove 90-95 percent of the water from your bike, before you ever touch it with a towel. This is usually called "flooding the paint" and there are some cool YouTube videos if my description doesn't make sense.
I like to blow my bike dry at this point. You can use an electric leaf blower (not gas as some shoot the exhaust out the nozzle) as a low cost option. I have an expensive MetroVac Master Blaster with a 300mph nozzle velocity which uses heated and filtered air, but that is kind of an expensive option. I routinely detail seven-figure cars, so for me it makes sense.
As far as drying towels, remember if it hurts you it hurts the paint. Your old underwear and beach towels don't cut it. Instead, get a nice, high-quality microfiber drying towel (usually called a waffle weave) and dry to pat the bike dry vs. rub it against the surface (if you are being real anal retentive).
That's all I got (for now).