What engine mode you use?

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Thanks, will try it next time out,

have only rode it 3 times, and high is nice and controled, but maybe a bit to much
 
Depends on the track.

T-hill West (twisty) = low mode
T-hill East (more open and flowy) = medium to high depending on time of day
COTA = high
 
Mine only has low medium and high I think…changed gearing because the throttle was very twitchy and hard to finesse…even after gearing changes there is a short hard blip that happens as soon as you just crack the throttle open, weirdly that goes away in high setting
 
Steven31371 said:
Mine only has low medium and high I think…changed gearing because the throttle was very twitchy and hard to finesse…even after gearing changes there is a short hard blip that happens as soon as you just crack the throttle open, weirdly that goes away in high setting
Click to expand...

Did you only feel the 'hard blip' on corner exit?

But yes, the lower throttle maps cause a lot more problems than they solve.
 
RickD996 said:
Did you only feel the 'hard blip' on corner exit?

But yes, the lower throttle maps cause a lot more problems than they solve.
Click to expand...

No, though that’s where it was annoying, in the lower throttle settings when you first crack the throttle open, that 1st 5%, no matter how smoothly I tried to do it the bike would give a little lurch, almost like on a hard upshift but less aggressive than that, was just enough of a lurch that I always felt like it was going to upset the bike if I pushed it harder at higher lean angles. Turns out I like my throttle control like I like my brakes to feel…progressive or softer initial bite, that ramps up quickly to big stopping power.

Throttle should be the same way, soft initial hit when you crack it open but ramps up very fast and strong.

In the lower settings the throttle was having the same affect as brakes that have to aggressive of an initial bite, upsetting the classy just a bit, but instead of a sudden brake lurch at initial bite, it’s a sudden little lurch as you 1st initiate the throttle twist
 
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I cant recall ever having that throttle issues on the stock setup with or without spacers, possibly the problem is technique? But if youre running a lower ratio rear gearing it will make it more sensitive and QA throttles would do the same i imagine.
 
Paul G said:
I cant recall ever having that throttle issues on the stock setup with or without spacers, possibly the problem is technique? But if youre running a lower ratio rear gearing it will make it more sensitive and QA throttles would do the same i imagine.
Click to expand...

I think it’s a mix of the tune and the JetPrime throttle, problem eliminated by counterintuitively running it in ‘high’ mode.
 
In the end its all about throttle control, the ghost in the machine may not be as good as you 🤣
 
Steven31371 said:
I think it’s a mix of the tune and the JetPrime throttle, problem eliminated by counterintuitively running it in ‘high’ mode.
Click to expand...

It's not a mix of the throttle tube and tune. It's the Ducati throttle map. As soon as you drop it down from high (or full), there's a computer that thinks it knows better than you. And, as the old saying goes, the throttle works both ways. Meaning, you really don't need to electronically mess with the throttle, you can do it, with your hand.
Also, the lean sensitive ECU, will restrict power with any lean, but then suddenly give it back when vertical enough, which creates a 'lurch' in the throttle/engine response.

If you really really want to limit the bike, you have three options:

1: install a db killer, but run full power. The db killer will reduce engine response in a linear way across the power band.

2. Buy a V2. But option 3 would be better for you.

3. Give up on motorbikes, they're not for you.
 
RickD996 said:
It's not a mix of the throttle tube and tune. It's the Ducati throttle map. As soon as you drop it down from high (or full), there's a computer that thinks it knows better than you. And, as the old saying goes, the throttle works both ways. Meaning, you really don't need to electronically mess with the throttle, you can do it, with your hand.
Also, the lean sensitive ECU, will restrict power with any lean, but then suddenly give it back when vertical enough, which creates a 'lurch' in the throttle/engine response.

If you really really want to limit the bike, you have three options:

1: install a db killer, but run full power. The db killer will reduce engine response in a linear way across the power band.

2. Buy a V2. But option 3 would be better for you.

3. Give up on motorbikes, they're not for you.
Click to expand...

I want the power, but I also want to be able to finesse it…like finely crafted machine.

“There’s never too much horsepower, just not enough traction.” 😂😂😂
 
Funny side note, was watching some YouTube videos and one of the pro-tips for newer track riders was to make sure you’re actually running at full throttle. Because you can think you are but aren’t….so I checked and sure enough I wasn’t most of the time. Probably been running most of the time at a max of 85-90% throttle even with the quickturn jetprime.

I was turning it as far as my wrist would comfortably go, my height was making a bad angle, so now I’m consciously taking a different grip to grip the throttle turn to full throttle…funny thing is that at 90% I was as fast or faster than everybody else at the track on the straights…but this bike got next level faster with that last 10% hahaha

Now I get to use my thumb brake more lol
 
Steven31371 said:
Funny side note, was watching some YouTube videos and one of the pro-tips for newer track riders was to make sure you’re actually running at full throttle. Because you can think you are but aren’t….so I checked and sure enough I wasn’t most of the time. Probably been running most of the time at a max of 85-90% throttle even with the quickturn jetprime.

I was turning it as far as my wrist would comfortably go, my height was making a bad angle, so now I’m consciously taking a different grip to grip the throttle turn to full throttle…funny thing is that at 90% I was as fast or faster than everybody else at the track on the straights…but this bike got next level faster with that last 10% hahaha

Now I get to use my thumb brake more lol
Click to expand...

Haha, you need to use the front brake less Steven! Then, you'll find no requirement for the thumb brake 😆


Oh, assuming you're using it to counter wheelie?
 

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