What to Inspect for Ducati 1199R

Hi folks, I am planning on checking out a Ducati 1199R that is part of an estate sale and I want to know any specific parts to inspect for before going through with the purchase.

This is a 2013 Ducati 1199R with less than 4500 miles. It is a 1 owner bike. It is missing the OEM mirrors and kickstand - instead, it has a carbon fiber kickstand and bar end mirrors. Everything else is OEM. It comes with all the original paperwork (manual, keys, tools, etc) and carbon fiber goodies that replaces basically all fairings of the bike. The agreed upon price is 15K. It does not have a service history.

Thanks in advance.

Check the date codes on the sidewall of the tires and inspect the tires for wear. If you have a chain stretch gauge, it's something you can check without unbolting anything.

I suspect this was a street 1199R given that it has bar end mirrors. But, if you know the owner's name, look for any social media accounts and see what they have posted, and if any of that content pertains to the bike.

Start the bike. Listen for weird sounds. Check the look of the oil. Check on the stator cover on the left to see if some coolant leaked out of the peephole. Not much more you can do for the engine.

Would you guys say the price is fair? The tires need to be replaced. Battery might be a little old.
Also, anyone's ownership experience of the 1199R?

The R bikes have a different maintenance schedule than the non R bikes. $15K for a 12-year old bike...eh, depends on how bad you want a R version of an 1199. I had a base 2014 1199, and loved it, my first Ducati.

There's a base 2013 1199 on Cycle Trader for $12,000, so +$3K for a R seems good. I can't remember if the R came with the LED headlight like the S. I don't think they did. It was a very common mod to swap in the S LED headlight.

ETA: There's a 2014 1199 S for $13,950 on Cycle Trader. I'm thinking $15K is pretty good. See if they'll do $14K.

Check the 8-pin plug under the black box under the seat for corrosion. Water gets in there and ruins the pins. 15 k is about right for an R model. I'd take an oil sample and have it checked for any metal. Check the service history as well. It's not due for a Desmo service until 15,000 miles. Also check for oil seepage around any of the crankcase seams. Since the kickstand has been replaced, double check the two bolts that hold it, as well as the bolts holding the L bracket on the left side of the engine. Improper tightening can lead to the bolts pulling threads out of the engine casing. Also a good idea to loosen the pinch bolt for the left L bracket and double check that the swing arm is not loose. Everything on that bracket has to be loosened in order to replace the kickstand. Mine had both problems when I bought it.

Check for any damage to the mirror mounting areas of the cowl support. They can be cracked, then JB Welded back in place just to keep the cowl/wind screen in place. It's a weak spot in the 1199 that got changed in the 1299, but bar end mirrors would indicate to me that the cowl brace had issues and the previous owner did what I also did and just went to bar end mirrors so that the frame would quit getting broken at the slightest suggestion. Yours might have been replaced with an aftermarket unit. It would be the same color but an inferior material.

I have a standard model 1199 btw, but the basic layout and problem areas will be the same. Best of luck with it. One note, just because the tach redlines at over 12,000 rpm does not mean you have to go there. It will scare the bejeezus out of you without ever going above 11K. You'll find that the torque dip from 3500-6500 rpm is the same on all of the 1199 models. The only fix is an aftermarket exhaust/Termi/Akra upgrade and then a really good revamp of the fuel curve. Personally I'd suggest the Arrow (or equivalent) around the oil sump slip-on system. It will help remove the torque slump in the mid range once the fuel curve to match it is installed into the ECU as well as gaining some top end power. Otherwise it's like riding a 2-stroke. Great low rpm torque, a bit of a sag, and above 7500 rpm its OH MY GOD time.

Enjoy

One other thing. It may not have many miles on it, but the water pump gears are made of plastic and have been known to fail. Replacing them with the metal gears available would be a good longevity upgrade.

here's the link:

Metal Water Pump Gears