1199 autoblipper

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I am looking to add an auto blipper on my '12 1199. I currently have a rapidbike race installed so was considering the rapidbike up/down shift assist with autoblip feature. I spoke to Yaman from rapidbike and he informed me that the rapidbike autoblip does not work well with the 1199 because of excessive vibrations from the bike, requiring a lot calibration to get it working properly.

Does anyone have any experience with rapidbike autoblipper and encountered this problem? If so did it get resolved after calibration?

If I decide to go with another brand such as BSD Blip Box Pro, how well does that work with an 1199 that already has existing Rapidbike pro installed. Are the two compatible with one another or does it not matter?

Thanks!
 
I am looking to add an auto blipper on my '12 1199. I currently have a rapidbike race installed so was considering the rapidbike up/down shift assist with autoblip feature. I spoke to Yaman from rapidbike and he informed me that the rapidbike autoblip does not work well with the 1199 because of excessive vibrations from the bike, requiring a lot calibration to get it working properly.

Does anyone have any experience with rapidbike autoblipper and encountered this problem? If so did it get resolved after calibration?

If I decide to go with another brand such as BSD Blip Box Pro, how well does that work with an 1199 that already has existing Rapidbike pro installed. Are the two compatible with one another or does it not matter?

Thanks!

I have it on both an 899 and had it on a 1199 race bike. No problems what so ever. only thing to do was personal settings adjustment.
 
I'm also running the rapidbike up/down shiftassist. It works well. Everyone once in a while I'll get a missed downshift, when that happens I try again and pull up a little harder.
 
If I decide to go with another brand such as BSD Blip Box Pro, how well does that work with an 1199 that already has existing Rapidbike pro installed. Are the two compatible with one another or does it not matter?Thanks!

I had the Blip Box Pro on my 1199 with RapidBike evo and it worked smoothly and without issue till only a couple of months ago. I'm installing tomorrow the RapidBike shift assist on my 899 and looking forward to it, haven't heard much negative stuff about it.
 
I've been lurking on this forum for a while and after reading this post I thought i'd register and share my experience with my 2013 1199 base.

I purchased the shift assist system from Yaman about a month ago. Prior to ordering I sent him an email with some questions I had and he told me the same thing he told you, it might be challenging. I decided to give it a shot since he offered assistance in case of trouble.

After the initial install and setup my engine was cutting out as if I was commanding an upshift. This would randomly happen during any type of acceleration (light, moderate and hard). It feels like the older Ducati traction control system that would abruptly cut throttle on wheel slip. I contacted Yaman and we setup a remote session for him to tweak my settings. He made some changes and accessed a hidden menu that, I believe, attempts to filter out false signals due to vibrations and such. After this session the bike was MUCH improved. Though not perfect it was at least rideable. I've been working with Yaman to try and get it dialed in better and it has been a bit tedious. It's basically a trial and error scenario. At the moment, the engine only cuts out under hard acceleration and only sparingly. But this is still a problem. I'm hopeful that with Yaman's help that eventually it'll be sorted, time will tell. I imagine that with a dyno this process would be much simpler because adjustments could be made on the spot. I'm doing this in my garage then taking a test ride and it's not always practical (or safe) to be doing open throttle runs on the road.

When the system is working correctly it is great. The upshifts are good and I love the blipper (i've never had one). If it weren't for Yaman's help I would have probably scrapped it already, he's a great guy.

I hope this helps, let me know if I can offer any other information.
 
Pro-Shift's DBS is a viable option as well. It's a stand-alone system that works with any ECU or fuel management system. It doesn't utilize load cell technology, the components are immune to interference (meaning that system modules can be located where desired), and there are no minimum RPM or speed thresholds to be concerned with when it comes time to downshift. The blip duration, blip amplitude, and system cut-out parameters are fully adjustable to suit the rider's needs. The downside... it's not the cheapest system on the market (priced at $1267.00), and it takes a bit of skill to install.
 
I've been lurking on this forum for a while and after reading this post I thought i'd register and share my experience with my 2013 1199 base.

I purchased the shift assist system from Yaman about a month ago. Prior to ordering I sent him an email with some questions I had and he told me the same thing he told you, it might be challenging. I decided to give it a shot since he offered assistance in case of trouble.

After the initial install and setup my engine was cutting out as if I was commanding an upshift. This would randomly happen during any type of acceleration (light, moderate and hard). It feels like the older Ducati traction control system that would abruptly cut throttle on wheel slip. I contacted Yaman and we setup a remote session for him to tweak my settings. He made some changes and accessed a hidden menu that, I believe, attempts to filter out false signals due to vibrations and such. After this session the bike was MUCH improved. Though not perfect it was at least rideable. I've been working with Yaman to try and get it dialed in better and it has been a bit tedious. It's basically a trial and error scenario. At the moment, the engine only cuts out under hard acceleration and only sparingly. But this is still a problem. I'm hopeful that with Yaman's help that eventually it'll be sorted, time will tell. I imagine that with a dyno this process would be much simpler because adjustments could be made on the spot. I'm doing this in my garage then taking a test ride and it's not always practical (or safe) to be doing open throttle runs on the road.

When the system is working correctly it is great. The upshifts are good and I love the blipper (i've never had one). If it weren't for Yaman's help I would have probably scrapped it already, he's a great guy.

I hope this helps, let me know if I can offer any other information.

I was experiencing some of this as well. Blip box pro's installation instructions are very specific about routing the load cell wire as far from the ignition coil as possible, Rapid Bike's instructions don't mention this so my dumba-- routed it the most convenient way possible. Once I moved it 95% of the cuts were gone....I just have to have Yaman remote in once I get the time. As of now the only time it does it is under full throttle above 7500.
 
I had some problems with Rapidbike initially, what used to happen was that blip(downshift) would trigger even if I downshift when the throttle was open. Ideally it should allow you to blip only while the throttle is closed. I tried doing the initial setup again and also got the dealer do a TPS reset, but that did not help. I contacted Dimsport and sent them my settings file. They were quick to provide me a solution:
- Go to Shift Assist > Status and note the input values when throttle is fully open and fully closed
- Go to Shift Assist > Advanced Options and manually set the min and max values for both inputs.
That solved my problem, also the manual had blip time settings starting from 65,70,71... which was a bit too much for my 959. So had to start with 25,30,35... and now it works like charm.
I think the support is what matters and their customer support is just great.
 
I've gone out twice now without any hiccups. In my case I needed to change the "hidden" filter to 11(max) and set the preload to 80. I also had to redo the initial setup and apply more force to the shift lever during the 3 second calibration. The shifts (up and down) are nice and crisp at higher rpms but a little clunky and lower rpms. Not a big deal though, I don't really use quick shift down low anyway. I think a little more fine tuning and I might have it, just wish it would've been a little simpler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I was experiencing some of this as well. Blip box pro's installation instructions are very specific about routing the load cell wire as far from the ignition coil as possible, Rapid Bike's instructions don't mention this so my dumba-- routed it the most convenient way possible. Once I moved it 95% of the cuts were gone....I just have to have Yaman remote in once I get the time. As of now the only time it does it is under full throttle above 7500.



This is good to know. I never considered interference from the coil...I must have jinxed myself because I had another cut yesterday. I'm going to check how I ran the load cell cable and also flip the load cell end for end (as recommended by Yaman). Thanks for the pointer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm also running the rapidbike up/down shiftassist. It works well. Everyone once in a while I'll get a missed downshift, when that happens I try again and pull up a little harder.
What happens when you downshift without the clutch expecting the RB shift assist to auto-blip for you for a smooth downshift, but it doesn't? Sounds harmful to the transmission.
 
I'm assuming since there is load on the transmission, it won't actually be able to move to another gear?
 
Slipper clutch......

unless you have a standard 899 then rear tyre might start doing compression skids. (help withy the fancy drift into corners thou)

Note, the RB auto-blipper on works above 4k I believe some you still need to use clutch at low speeds
 
What happens when you downshift without the clutch expecting the RB shift assist to auto-blip for you for a smooth downshift, but it doesn't? Sounds harmful to the transmission.

just doesn't shift, feels like a mis shift or something, i just immediately try again and pull a little harder.
 
I've gone out twice now without any hiccups. In my case I needed to change the "hidden" filter to 11(max) and set the preload to 80. I also had to redo the initial setup and apply more force to the shift lever during the 3 second calibration. The shifts (up and down) are nice and crisp at higher rpms but a little clunky and lower rpms. Not a big deal though, I don't really use quick shift down low anyway. I think a little more fine tuning and I might have it, just wish it would've been a little simpler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just outta curiosity, do you remember how to get access to that hidden filter? Gotta make some adjustments to mine and can't find it. Also, what was the purpose of flipping the sensor?
 

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