1199 base, keeps dying after full charge system replaced

Ecp1199

Ecp1199

Joined Jun 2022
10 Posts | 0+
Los Angeles
Good Morning!

This is my first post and I searched and searched for answers. One evening when clming home from work I accidentally left the bike key in the on position. Tried bump starting but couldnt get it to start. I made the mistake of jumping the bike from a running car…. I knew it was a bad idea and did it anyway.. bike started right up and rode fine for the next 30 minutes or so until I parked it. The next day on the way home from work the bike died on the 101. I get the red box with BATTERY on the dash after about 30 minutes of a fresh battery every time. Replaced the battery, still dies. Replaced the R/R, still dies, Replaced the stator, still dies. Bike has been at Moto Club Santa Monica since July and all charging components have now been replaced, some multiple times. Shop said they checked all wiring and fuses as well and found no issues there. Im at my wits end now and have no idea what the hell else it could be…
 
Do you have a clamp type ammeter? With the bike running and the ammeter on the + terminal, can you see current going into the battery?

By R/R do you mean regulator/rectifier?
 
@bp_SFV4 I only have a voltmeter unfortunately. I have checked voltage at battery while running but it shows the obvious, battery not charging.

Yes i meant regulator/rectifier, and as crazy as it sounds it has been changed 3 times as I was told the first two were faulty.
 
UPDATE: I have dynamic tested the stator and it is giving heaps of power, I replaced all fuses and checked all ground wires that I could find… When I start the bike with a full battery it jumps from 12.7 volts to 13.5-13.7 volts measured via multimeter. Once I take it out for a ride and the bike gets hot, the battery drains suddenly and the bike starts to die. I had the battery tested this afternoon and it is at 100% health. I have hone through 4 regulators and tested the current one with the multimeter as well… is it maybe a bad/burnt ground? Im at the end of my rope…
 
The voltage jumping up to close to 14 while running is normal and a good sign the charging system is working.

I don't know where all of the grounds to the frame are on the 1199, but for sure I'd check them out.

I had an old Toyota Corolla when I was 16 that after I replaced the clutch I was getting all kinds of crazy electrical problems. The ground wire from the harness to the engine was just loose.
 
I was only able to find main grounds under the battery tray, and coming off of the starter motor. Both are clean and tight. Also battery cables are clean and tight as well. Checked the ground from regulator using multimeter and shows same voltage as battery. It seems that all the grounds are good. The bike is definitely getting charge when I start it cold. It seems like it starts draining once the temp gets around 200 degrees
 
Another update: regulator is proven good as I used multimeter on output from regulator and got 14.85 volts at idle. Problem is some where between the regulator and the battery but only when the bike gets hot…
 
Also at idle battery shows 13.38 volts on meter but only 12.2 volts on the dash
 
Ok so I let the bike sit idling for about 15 minutes and everything is perfect until the bike hits 217 and fan kicks on. From there it drains, Im thinking unplug the fan and ride it around and see if it still dies.
 
Ecp1199 said:
Ok so I let the bike sit idling for about 15 minutes and everything is perfect until the bike hits 217 and fan kicks on. From there it drains, Im thinking unplug the fan and ride it around and see if it still dies.
Click to expand...

Under the circumstances I'd test the same way. Is there any prior crash damage or visible damage to the fans?
 
Bike has never been down, has 17,000 miles on it and fan and wires/connection look brand new
 
Reading through I was thinking fan. It doesn't need to have been dropped, it's in a prime position for corrosion. It's not the worst part to get at. I don't recall an earth specifically for it when I removed it, but check the terminals for corrosion. It could also be that the fan has a short internally
 
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bp_SFV4 said:
Under the circumstances I'd test the same way. Is there any prior crash damage or visible damage to the fans?
Click to expand...
Disco said:
Reading through I was thinking fan. It doesn't need to have been dropped, it's in a prime position for corrosion. It's not the worst part to get at. I don't recall an earth specifically for it when I removed it, but check the terminals for corrosion. It could also be that the fan has a short internally
Click to expand...

I unplugged the fan and rode it yesterday today for a total of about 40 minutes, no tender in between. Battery is still completely full. The fan turns on when plugged in but maybe there is still a short in the fan drawing too much power?
 
Looking at the diagram, the fan only has two wires and is grounded directly to the battery on the same circuit as the rectifier. The positive comes straight off of the BBS unit.

I'd be curious if the BBS unit can tell if the fan is on. I'd also check that wire leading from the fan to the BBS to be sure there isn't any damage.

I'm not really one for shotgunning parts, but you may look into a replacement fan from eBay and maybe even read it with an ohm meter before installing it. Actually, before doing that I'd hook up a multimeter and see how much current the fan is drawing. Its harder with a probe style multimeter instead of a clamp, but its workable.

1669083973556.png
 
Last edited:
You could also check for continuity between the positive wire and the frame/engine. This would steer you to a short in the wire rather than a faulty fan.
 
And there's nothing wrong/harmful from jumpstarting. Reported to .....'s ministry of truth for misinformation.
 

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