1199 Base Suspension Setup Marzocchi

RiderGary said:

KFG Racing in Washington sales/installs a GP Suspension kit for the Marzocci forks also. I don't know how well it works but they installed a GP suspension kit on my FJR that really works great.
KFG Racing - Do You Have The Kung Fu Grip? Motorcycle racing service in Auburn, Washington, Seattle, Tacoma, Kent, Bellevue, Covington

Click to expand...

The KFG 25mm kit is really great on the track. Highly recommend calling Barry to discuss your needs.

jarelj said:

Haven't gotten to try them out yet, I was going to install them today to try on Monday but we discovered we don't have the right tool to remove the stock cartridges from the Marzocchi forks, so that plan was derailed! I got 1.0 springs for them. I was thinking of trying .95's but with the more forward weight bias the Panigale has I didn't want to lack support under braking so I went with 1.0. That was the rate Ohlins recommended also.

Click to expand...

Was that a Ducati Tool or an Ohlins Tool? We have only been working with the S so far but I'm starting on some Marzocchis next week. Thanks!

1199CARR said:

Was that a Ducati Tool or an Ohlins Tool? We have only been working with the S so far but I'm starting on some Marzocchis next week. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Turns out it was misinformation, there is no special tool required. You just have to remove the compression adjuster from the fork lower first, then remove the cartridge bolt at the bottom, and then tap the cartridge out from the bottom to unseat it and it will pull right out the top of the fork.

The compression adjuster doesnt do much on the OEM Sachs. The rebound adjuster is actually an open jet so it affects both compression and rebound. I dynoed mine and did a full adjuster sweep. So basically the compression adjuster is virtually useless on this shock. I also have done a dyno sweep on a front marzocchi fork cartridge.

The stock spring in the forks is a 1.0 and the rear sachs is 490 lb/in

Does anyone know what weight the base 1199 springs are sprung for?

I am 135lb dry, swapping out for .95kg front, I can get correct sag in the rear shock oem with 2 threads showing. I would guess stock is set for 150 - 180?

Guys,

The valving is quite corse, oil weight is light, and the air gap was insufficient from factory.

Changed the valving using gold valves approximate stack equivalent to C4, running anywhere from 195 to 210mm air gap. A few things mentioned earlier n the thread are very important. The main one being NOT to screw the damping adjustment home aggressively, it is possible to actually make the rod running down the fork to the valving seat jam in the seat.

I have seen this on other forks...

Getting back to the forks, there is approximately 30mm of unused fork slider, the air gap from factory is too small causing compression lockup I.E the fork can't travel any further because it has too much oil in it.

Quick adjustment is this, drain oil, flush forks, refill with 7.5 weight, u can get the right weight oil by mixing 5 and 10 weight in equal amounts.

Refill leaving a 200mm air gap. When filling the forks don't forget to pump the damping rod to purge the air.

Putting 7.5 weight in will give u better damping with the factory valving.

Stock springs will be ok for a range of weights from 160lbs to about 220lbs, air gap and oil weight is the quickest way to improve the forks...

Interestingly enough the fork oil should be changed and forks serviced every season if ur road riding and every 6 months if ur using ur bike for track days.. The oil gets flogged.

It's a little more complicated now forks have nitrogen in the cartridges.

The forks are good forks, just need refining and the QA in manufacturing might be some of the problem, but once they have been stripped and rebuilt and care has been taken they are really very good.

A cartridge kit is a great mod, but for the road totally not necessary, a good suspension builder will be able to build you a great set of forks from the factory hardware.

Once you have settled on a shim stack and springs the only thing you should need to change is oil weight and air gap. Springs should only need changing if you race and use the same forks for wet and dry. It is possible to change springs with the forks in the bike...

It's important to remember even if ur buying an "R" model the suspension will be a compromise because Ducati are selling their product to a wide range of people.

Cheers

By the way, take the rear shock out and throw it away, the base rear shock needs a lot of work to get anywhere near usable... Like I have said before "Ducati, get your .... together"

Going to replace the springs with the forks on the bike. Here are to-do I listed, any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

1. Bike on front stand thru bottom triple, unload weigh on forks, support wheel with wood block
2. Back off rebound and compression damping to zero, preload already at zero
3. Unscrew fork caps with tool Duc Part # 887133091
4. Pull the damping rod up and loosen lock nut 14mm wrench, remove fork cap from damping rod
5. Pull spacer, spring out,
6. Drop in new springs, spacer
7. Tight lock nut, screw fork cap back on damping rod
8. Screw fork cap back on.
9. Adjust damper settings to original, Done

I ride a base Pani, mostly street occasional track. One thing to remember about suspension adjustments(and I think you all know this) is it is individual preference. My front end feels disconnected from the rest of the bike when riding on the streeet( which gives me very little confidence). My track day though it seems fine. I think the loads genereated on the track make it work better.
I just read 3 diff threads on suspension set ups and I'm so confused I can't count to 3!I do think the advice of changing the oil in the forks and limiting how much air is in the legs is the best yet. I used to do this on my CBR's I raced and what a world of difference.
I don't believe you can get a complant street set up and a compliant track set up all in one. Maybe a happy medium.
I enjoyed reading all this but frankly I ride mine so little I don't want to spend all day fetting the springy parts!

I think I just wrote all that to hear myself bang the keys!
Has anybody raised the forks in the clamps to try to load the front end. Maybe give it a more planted feel? I also used to do this on my other bikes. Say something like 5-10mm's.

So i tried dropping in new .95 springs on the Marzocchis, a few corrections to the procedures, i am still missing a step somewhere, there seem to be no rebound damping after fitting back on the bike.

1. Bike on front stand thru bottom triple, unload weigh on forks, support wheel with wood block
2. Back off compression damping to zero, preload already at zero, turn rebound damp to full
3. Loosen top triple, Unscrew fork caps with tool Duc Part # 887133091
4. Pull the damping rod up and loosen lock nut 17mm wrench, remove fork cap from damping rod
5. Pull spacer, spring out,
6. Drop in new springs, spacer
7. make sure rebound damper rod is full position (Marzocchi RAC50 manual)
8. Tight lock nut, screw fork cap back on damping rod
9. Screw fork cap back on fork outer, tight top triple
9. Adjust damper settings to original, Done

Bungle said:

This seems to work

Click to expand...

I decided to go the same route. Work pretty damn well.

Is your rear link on P or F

I BELIEVE THAT,what did you replace yours with? I weigh 190 geared up and the rear is un usable on the tight bumpy stuff,and the seat is un usable for me,it is designed for guys who get out of the saddle in race leathers. So needless to say my first ride 114 miles yesterday left me with alot of sorting to do.Fortunately the last 1/2 was Highway 36 and I couldn't keep the smile off my face,the bike IS awsome. Steve

jyli19 said:

So i tried dropping in new .95 springs on the Marzocchis, a few corrections to the procedures, i am still missing a step somewhere, there seem to be no rebound damping after fitting back on the bike.

Click to expand...

Oups.....it won't come back, been there

Ohlins 30mm NIX kit, .90kg springs, 7mm showing about the triple (stock is 5mm I think), 14 clicks out compression, 12 clicks rebound. Rear is stock, I can get proper SAG with 2 threads showing, 9 clicks out compression, 7 clicks rebound. The front and back is now nicely balanced, compresses and rebounds at about the same rate.

Fixed 2 things,

Bikes is more balanced, less pitch (weight transfer) when getting off the brakes mid turn, can get on the gas earlier

Tighter turns, more stable, goes where you want it. I think it's due to the front riding lower now. Also the lighter spring absorbs bumps better, using up more suspension. Bike doesn't run wide when getting on the gas

fireman1251 said:

Oups.....it won't come back, been there

Click to expand...

I can pump the marzocchi cartridge with the cap off and get damping feeling back. I think the key is turn rebound damping full in prior to removing the fork cap. That's where I screwed up, I turn the rebound damper all the way out like other forks I have worked on. Doing so released the pressure in the cartridge. Now that i have full cartridge out, when I pump the cartridge, the rubber bladder inflates and deflates, I am thinking it should be inflated the entire time. Someone correct me if I am wrong, we can all learn something

centeroff said:

Is your rear link on P or F

Click to expand...

rear link is on F, Flat

The front fork spring aren't progressive rates, I believe it's best to have the rear set to F to match. The P mode is for 2 up as stated in the user manual, I guess to allow for higher weight capacity on the bottom of the stroke.

If you feel F is too stiff, I think you should replace the springs to match your weight instead of changing to P. In P mode, you might get a softer initial feel, but then it'll become progressively stiffer in the stroke.

Hi Jyli,

How is the Ohlin NIX kit compare to stock with lighter spring?