1199 doesnt start, need help!!

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Same drive arrangement as previous models.
The other guy is probably right that the it's there
Wear in the carbon brush set bet the armature is fine
 
You can probably save your self a lot of money by replacing just the brush plate and seals, and cleaning the armature. Obviously I haven't had to do this on my 1199, but I "rebuilt" my 749 starter twice. If your handy enough to get the motor out, you might as well open it up, and clean it and try and reuse it. A little digging on Google with the Denso (or who ever makes the starter) manufacturer part number will likely lead you to a pre-assembled brush plate and seal kit. I know on my 749 oil would get into the starter and cook, as well as the brushes wearing. A $15 brush kit was all it needed. A new seal, new brushes and you basically have a new starter. Just note the orientation of the brush plate or your starter motor might spin backwards. It's very easy.

This is exactly what I plan on doing. Looks like taking it out is going to be a pain.
I'm pretty sure you are going to need to remove Generator cover / drain oil, starter has 3 mounting bolts centered around starter drive gear + 2 end bolts.

This ended auction has great close up images of starter motor and as you can see it appears to be held in place by 2 bolts only and the splined shaft just locates into/onto the main starter gear.

Ducati Complete Starter Motor 27040134A 1199 and 899 Panigale | eBay

Just spent bit time searching for a good pic on google and this one shows ya perfectly what your dealing with, no need to be removing covers and dropping oil ;)

I Have circled the starter motors gear/spline were it connects to the Large starter gear

thanks guys, I'm due for an oil change either way but i'm upset that my bike has just over 1k miles and have this issue :( oh well its half way taken apart at the moment.
 
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A Google Image search brought up denso #428000-9181 for an 1199. I got my brush set from these guys, shipped it over night the day before Christmas, and over nighted another set after they sent the wrong one, very good customer service.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
A $15 kit came with pinion seal, end cap and through bolt o-rings, bushing, and assembled brush plate, pretty good deal. That was for the older motors, but I'm sure something similar can be sourced.
 
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damn this is tougher than I thought... How the hell do you remove the starter motor ?? Its so hard trying to get to those motor screws... do I have the remove the exhaust ? Do I have to remove the crank cover as well ??

Just as an icing to the cake - I can't seem to remove the oil filter cover !!! :(, sometimes the DIY world can be very frustrating.

Oh well, I have 4 quarts of mobil one and a couple K&N filters on the way. Not sure if I should just order the starter motor or try to get even deeper into the motor and figure out what might me wrong internally.

Any input guys ?
 
A Google Image search brought up denso #428000-9181 for an 1199. I got my brush set from these guys, shipped it over night the day before Christmas, and over nighted another set after they sent the wrong one, very good customer service.
Denso Starter Contacts, starter repair kits, starter solenoid parts, solenoid contacts, starter repair
A $15 kit came with pinion seal, end cap and through bolt o-rings, bushing, and assembled brush plate, pretty good deal. That was for the older motors, but I'm sure something similar can be sourced.

Well I finally got the motor taken out. It was a nightmare trying to get the damn header out. Either way - once I took the motor apart - I could see that the plastic holding the brushes had cracked.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/tqljrz2jn9ba9o2/AABBEMhNQlvP9ujSLLqpPBSna

Thats how it looks. I'll see where I can source that part from. Either way I do have a new starter ordered and its on the way.
 
That sucks, looks like it's done for, the armature is damaged. If you picked up a used one maybe open it up and check on the brushes and armature before installing it. Don't want the same thing to happen.
 
That sucks, looks like it's done for, the armature is damaged. If you picked up a used one maybe open it up and check on the brushes and armature before installing it. Don't want the same thing to happen.

yep, the new(used) motor came in and i've just replaced it. haven't completed the install yet. A lot of parts were taken out to get till here :(

Btw, do you know what is behind the heat exchanger ?? I'ts the black box which is right behind the motor on the right side of the box. I took the box out cause it was in the way of installing the starter motor and the minute I removed it a lot of fluid came out poring. I'm guessing this is the coolant ?
 
Holy crap. Ok I am new and normally I would not comment on repair issues but this is a bit scary. Not sure why you removed the heat exchanger to get the starter out but you dont want to F that up on the re install. With the right tools the starter motor is a breeze to swap. It sounds like you disassembled a lot of the bike and the pieces that you did take off need to be re assembled with some caution. The heat exchanger has a special gasket. Do not use the old one. I have seen 3 "water in oil" scenarios when this gasket is not installed correctly as water and oil flow within mm of each other through the passages in the exchanger. Clean the block and the exchanger. Make sure you have not gotten water in the oil passages and or oil in the water passages of the exchanger. If your not sure, clean it and blow out the passages. Install a new gasket and make sure to lube it with an O ring grease.This will also hold the gasket in place on the block. Make sure you place the exchanger squarely and uniformly on the gasket. Tighten the bolts in a uniform sequence and make sure to torque them to spec. If you have removed the front header pipe at the head, do not re use the gasket. Get a new one and again torque to spec. Sorry if i am coming off in the wrong way.
 
Holy crap. Ok I am new and normally I would not comment on repair issues but this is a bit scary. Not sure why you removed the heat exchanger to get the starter out but you dont want to F that up on the re install. With the right tools the starter motor is a breeze to swap. It sounds like you disassembled a lot of the bike and the pieces that you did take off need to be re assembled with some caution. The heat exchanger has a special gasket. Do not use the old one. I have seen 3 "water in oil" scenarios when this gasket is not installed correctly as water and oil flow within mm of each other through the passages in the exchanger. Clean the block and the exchanger. Make sure you have not gotten water in the oil passages and or oil in the water passages of the exchanger. If your not sure, clean it and blow out the passages. Install a new gasket and make sure to lube it with an O ring grease.This will also hold the gasket in place on the block. Make sure you place the exchanger squarely and uniformly on the gasket. Tighten the bolts in a uniform sequence and make sure to torque them to spec. If you have removed the front header pipe at the head, do not re use the gasket. Get a new one and again torque to spec. Sorry if i am coming off in the wrong way.
Thank you for pointing this out. I still have it apart so I'll put it back the right way. I did not know about the heat exhanger!! I couldn't get the starter in position so decided to remove the heat exchanger to make it easier.

BTW since we are talking about tools, is there a tool to remove the header bolt without removing the radiator?


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Great topic and for sure the source of much frustration thanks to Ducati's engineering dept's sense of humor. Its a bitch and just about everyone chews up some radiator fins trying it. First put a cut sheet of card board over the Rad. You can get a flex socket shaft with a short 10mm. By flex shaft i mean literally the spring flex shaft extension. the torque value is only 10nm so its fine for that. I replaced the nuts with 12 point when I did the Akra to give me bit more flexibility if i need to pull it.
 
Great topic and for sure the source of much frustration thanks to Ducati's engineering dept's sense of humor. Its a bitch and just about everyone chews up some radiator fins trying it. First put a cut sheet of card board over the Rad. You can get a flex socket shaft with a short 10mm. By flex shaft i mean literally the spring flex shaft extension. the torque value is only 10nm so its fine for that. I replaced the nuts with 12 point when I did the Akra to give me bit more flexibility if i need to pull it.

Oh,would something like this work ?

Neiko 00239A Flexible Extension Bar Set, 1/4"/3/8", 2 Piece - Extension Cords - Amazon.com

Most of the bike is put back, just need to add engine oil and coolant. i'll probably flush the coolant and add distilled water + water wetter.

Since my bike is a 2012 model, the oil filter cap was a pain to get out. I'll have to do something about it to make it easier to get out.
 
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Hy
I have ducati 1199 .2012 model
He won't start
I change crank piston senser
Spark plugs and quails
And I check fuel pump pressure OK
And I check injector but fuel injection didn't work
I check injector voltage is show 9.0 and I check driect crunt he is works but bike didn't works
When I start bike he miss fire order
What can I do tell me thans
 

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