I would attempt to take advantage of anything that you can redeem if it’s under warranty. Others on here might chime in as to how that experience goes. I hear the warranty has a lot of fine print and they will void it for pretty much anything. I believe a recall is met with less resistance. You might want to see if there is a recall on that part.
There we go. Someone who definitely knows a lot more than I. That’s helpful info even though mine isn’t the newest model. I need to change out the oem QS on the ‘18 I just bought. I received the shift support that I ordered and rear sets but I want to change it while everything is disassembled.
Yeah. Not sure how yoshi will get a warranty repair on a non-issue
I see. So more or less, the strain gauge was the solution for those that have chosen to modify the drivetrain and tires. Notes taken. Honestly, I don’t know that it’s not acting funny because of the slop in the oem lever pin and the play of the whole entire setup.
Neither do I. I’m just not inclined to tell him it’s not happening.
No, I think the strain gauge types are being used by riders attempting to get a better experience. If that works for them or they end up liking it is rather subjective. Changes to the driveline having an effect on the QS can't be fixed by going to an aftermarket QS. It's the ECU ignoring the signal to downshift because something, be it wheel speed to RPM etc. is out of a value which it expects to see.
They moved it to the shift drum to help deal with false neutrals. The drum needs to be in its indent to select the gear and the gear position sensor. I think you would need to add some signal processing to this but seems to me like a good solution. Not only that if you toss it down on the shift side the switch is no longer vulnerable. Good idea IMHO.
I am just hoping I won’t need to change the gearing if that’s the case. I wonder how people get around this as the gearing has to be changed if you want the bike optimised different tracks
On the Euro 4's you can use an OBDstar or equivalent to reset the transmission adaptives as BP mentions. The range of gearing that can be used "for closed course use" is listed, I thought, somewhere in the service manual? Anyway you should be able to recalibrate to any ratio's listed (pretty liberal). Insure you can do a calibration first with your existing sprocket set. Assuming it works you can then change the gearing, reset the adaptives, and do another calibration. Should work. On the Euro 5's, has anyone successfully done this? You may be locked out on the Euro 5's.
