1199 rim help

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So I'm in the market for a new set of rim. Are there any other brand beside for the bst carbon rims? And what's the different between the marsechini rim and any other rims?


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asshammer rimz & tosses salad.... juz ask u know who..... the s/r marchinesi rimz r best in terms of both weight and strength.... i'd skip carbon -- too risky.... and all the other rimz r heavier than the stock s/r rims anyhow or almost as light...
 
asshammer rimz & tosses salad.... juz ask u know who..... the s/r marchinesi rimz r best in terms of both weight and strength.... i'd skip carbon -- too risky.... and all the other rimz r heavier than the stock s/r rims anyhow or almost as light...

I'll disagree with carbon being too risky. I have ran a set on my R1 for 6 years without any issues. I personally change my own tires (No Mar tire changer), have 20,000 miles on them and roughly 30 track days. I see zero risk to them. I have only seen photo evidence of one destroyed wheel that was the result of the crash, not causing the crash, and only other failures are due to extremely high HP, over 250 HP, and causing the hub to slip on the rear where it attached to the wheel.

But personally, I would use a set of carbon rims in a heartbeat, and once I sell my set for the R1, I will have a set on my 1299 S, even though with the S wheels, it's not a huge weight savings..
 
I'll disagree with carbon being too risky. I have ran a set on my R1 for 6 years without any issues. I personally change my own tires (No Mar tire changer), have 20,000 miles on them and roughly 30 track days. I see zero risk to them. I have only seen photo evidence of one destroyed wheel that was the result of the crash, not causing the crash, and only other failures are due to extremely high HP, over 250 HP, and causing the hub to slip on the rear where it attached to the wheel.

But personally, I would use a set of carbon rims in a heartbeat, and once I sell my set for the R1, I will have a set on my 1299 S, even though with the S wheels, it's not a huge weight savings..

risk/reward of carbon vs stock s rims is silly, as is the cost as are the negligible at best weight savings... in terms of materials and physics, the science says carbon rims are a riskier proposition; for example, on a pothole an s rim can bend and deform quite badly, but a carbon rim can literally explode in fibers and epoxy.

you can have 30k or even a million k miles on carbon rims, but it is in the end anecdotal as are observations that "others used carbon rims for x miles problem-free."

edit: off the top of my head i remember that when you mount up the carbon wheels with all the bearings and bolts etc they actually weigh a touch more than the s marchinesis....
 
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risk/reward of carbon vs stock s rims is silly, as is the cost as are the negligible at best weight savings... in terms of materials and physics, the science says carbon rims are a riskier proposition; for example, on a pothole an s rim can bend and deform quite badly, but a carbon rim can literally explode in fibers and epoxy.

you can have 30k or even a million k miles on carbon rims, but it is in the end anecdotal as are observations that "others used carbon rims for x miles problem-free."

edit: off the top of my head i remember that when you mount up the carbon wheels with all the bearings and bolts etc they actually weigh a touch more than the s marchinesis....

Sometimes the difference isn't in the total weight, but the weight distribution as well. I am still looking for the actual weights of the BST without rotors/bolts, and OEM S to compare, and get true weights. For the R1, I dropped 27 pounds of rotating mass switching to BST/titanium bits/rotors, etc. I know it's MUCH closer for the 1299 S wheels, but I am looking for actual weights.

With that said, weight distribution is key as well. The weight of BST wheels are in the hub, not the rim vs. weight of the S wheels being most in the rim. I have already changed my rotors/bolts, and lost about 4 pounds from the front, and move more weight to the center.

Simple physics in terms of rotational mass and weight distribution. Look at a centripetal clutch or ice skater, the tighter the mass, the less effort to spin. The more weight in the center, the easier to offset (turn) the bike.

Now, price is part of the process... Talking about cost/ounce. But I have read that BST wheels are about 4 total pounds of savings from OEM S wheels. But weight distribution would also be a big part.

It really comes down to what you are willing to pay/ounce as to whether it's worth it.

I wouldn't hesitate to run a carbon wheel that is DOT certified like BST. Also the fact I have hit my fair share of potholes, debris, curbing on the track, and I have zero issues with the wheel.

Also I have seen a BST rep bounce the wheel on concrete in person. Can a carbon wheel shatter, yes. Can an aluminum, magnesium, yes. Just depends on the amount of force applied. But in daily riding, and track riding, I personally never had a single issue.

Then jump over to bicycles. I have been running carbon wheels on a bicycle for years, and never had an issue as well, even with my overweight self losing weight.
 
I'm a fan of the OZ wheels. They are slightly heavier but I'm okay with that. I think they make up in looks what they add in weight.

The Checa wheels are technically designed for the 1098 series bikes so you'll need to run spacers up front to make sure the disk spacing is correct. Some people have had issues installing. Mine went together no problem. Love the set-up.

The rear wheel is a direct bolt on.
 

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Also I have seen a BST rep bounce the wheel on concrete in person. Can a carbon wheel shatter, yes. Can an aluminum, magnesium, yes. Just depends on the amount of force applied. But in daily riding, and track riding, I personally never had a single issue.

the shatter tolerance for carbon wheel vs. the s marchinesi is not a good comparo, at least not for the carbon wheel.... u can bounce wheels off of cement, but that is an idiotic stress test for actual riding conditions -- sorry, but it really is...

u will not have any performance increase or appreciable difference with the bst wheel after it is all mounted up, at least not in terms of lap times or turn-in. you will most likely, after having dropped that kind of $$$ surely convince yourself otherwise. (the R1 stock wheels are not an appropriate comparison btw as they are boat anchors vs stock s wheels.)

anyhow, i prob wont convince you either way...
 
BST period. I put them on my 1199, 1299S and Panigale R. The BST wheels is the most tested wheel on the market. I can attest that I hit a lot of pot holes on my BST that aluminum wheels would have been destroyed. If you manage to hit something so hard to shatter the BST wheels you will have more important things to worry about like your bike being totaled or your health. As to performance the difference between my R wheels and BST is about two pounds each of rotating mass two pounds doesn't seems like a lot but when rotating its huge and what gives the BST its edge in performance is that all the mass is in its hub area instead of the outer rim.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSPFLYcljgI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsi-QoOYEkM
 
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What is your desired result?

Hands down the S/R wheel cannot be beat when you compare prices, especially if your bike is already equipped with them.

I currently run BST wheels on my 675R and have on other bikes, would not waste the $3xxx again for this mod.. personally find the back BST for the Ducati to be one of the ugliest wheels ever made...

Mrailing, what year R1 was that? not saying it isnt possible, but barring CMC rotors, aftermarket rotors are typically heavier, and the front wheel of R1/R6 is right at 7.5lbs. So you would have quite a bit of weight to remove from the rear wheel.

Take it your running your older CMC discs with different carriers?
 
'personally find the back BST for the Ducati to be one of the ugliest wheels ever made...'

Ha, and i thought it was just me! I think it totally ruins the look of the rear but each to their own, I know some people love them which is fair enough
 
I chose Rotobox. I do not race. Don't intend too. I wanted people to see the carbon material. Plus they are pretty light.

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u really care what other people see and/or think? damn...... .... is fukdup....



To each is own. We are talking about wheels correct ? There's one in every crowd and I guess you're it here. Go figure.


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To each is own. We are talking about wheels correct ? There's one in every crowd and I guess you're it here. Go figure.


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i'm that guy not in the crowd riding in the opposite direction of the starfux poseur scene & could give a .... what a stranger thinks of anything.....
 
i'm that guy not in the crowd riding in the opposite direction of the starfux poseur scene & could give a .... what a stranger thinks of anything.....



[emoji106]


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I decided to buy new rims too and like the look and color of the of the OZ Racing Gass RS-a. (from motowheels.com, btw it took all of 8 weeks for delivery) They're a little heavier than the stock R rims but I use these for the street and have my stock rims fitted with slicks for track days. I couldn't feel any difference when riding on the street with these and like the look, win/win.
Good luck
-r
 

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I'll disagree with carbon being too risky. I have ran a set on my R1 for 6 years without any issues. I personally change my own tires (No Mar tire changer)...

What model of No-Mar tire changer are you using ? Is it any good ?
I'm looking for a tire changer. Suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thanks !
 
What model of No-Mar tire changer are you using ? Is it any good ?
I'm looking for a tire changer. Suggestions will be much appreciated.

Thanks !

I have the classic, or the original one. I have had it since 2008, and have probably changed over 500 tires on it. If I change them for other people, I always tell them, "you bring the wheel off the bike, and the tire, and clean the wheel, then I take a donation towards the supplies".

Yes I love it, and I have only had one tire changed since owning it, just because I used up a rear at Deal's Gap. It takes me about 10 minutes to change and balance a tire. I use a static balancer, specifically this one:

Motorcycle Wheel Balancer

I use two jack stands as the support to balance.

Once you get the hang of it, it takes far longer to take the wheel off the bike than it does to change the tire.

I also got the hitch mount, and I just slide it in the hitch of my truck, that way I can take it with me and it doesn't take up a ton of space.
 

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