1199 S non ABS to ABS

So as the title says I have a 1199 S non ABS that I am converting over to ABS. I have the electrical schematics from both bikes and the differences are:

1. non abs version sends hall speed signals to the BBS (labeled BBS base), and then to the dash and ecu.
2. abs version sends hall speed signals to the Bosch ABS controller, then to the BBS (labeled BBS Full), and then to the dash and ecu.

I have purchased a complete ABS version wire harness, and a complete Bosch ABS controller and brake lines, I have also purchased the BBS Full but is is not here yet (this week).
The full ABS wire harness and Bosch controller with brake lines are installed, the bike runs fine but gives "no speed sensor errors" this was expected since the BBS Full has not been installed as of yet.
I hope to have the new BBS this week and I pray it will talk correctly with the dash and ECU so that my parts swap can stop, if not I will either need to replace (or flash) the ECU or Dash (or both) with ABS versions.

Please let me know if you can think of something I may have missed in my quest for ABS nirvana.

thanks Bret

Ps. I have all the stock parts so that if I crash and burn in my attempt I can put it all back to stock (really don't want this!)

There's two accellerometers inside the engine--one under each head--that calibrate front and rear brake bias. You need to remove and disassemble the engine to gain access, unfortunately. Of course, I am just kidding.

There's no ABS-spec dash, nor is there an ABS-specific ECU. Nor have I heard of anyone having problems adding one or the other from a base bike to an S or vice-versa, so as long as you have all the mechanical parts and electrical connections, I'd expect a high probability of this working just fine for you. I hope that you have the complete set of lines already connected and filled with fluid, as I think the full bleed procedure could be intensive. If not, the community would really appreciate seeing a 'how to'!

Antihero
Thanks for the response. You really had me going for a few..... I do have the abs control unit on and fully bleed, I have a vacuum power bleeder and the brakes feel great (have no ridden it yet). I will be happy to do a "how to" if this all works, if not I can do a great "what not to do". Hope your adventure is going well
Bret

My only concern is resell. When you tell the buyer, "no, it wasn't ABS originally, but I put ABS on it myself after reading how to on the internet" No offense, but that would concern me a bit.

It's even worse than that... There is no information on the net, I had to figure it out on my own. I still have my fingers crossed that it works..

Yeah, gotta give you some major credit here. I looked into replacing the stock brake lines with kevlar/alum fittings and after about 10 min. thought, "this is a winter project for places in the nation with snowstorms that last 4 months."

You can do it! will be very easy and safe to determine if ABS is actually working once you've got it going, too. The rear is easy. The front might be daunting at first, but if ABS is functioning properly, the anti-rear-wheel lift will be working, too...so decelerate progressively harder and harder from 80mph--and if you can't do a stoppie (very easy on this bike), you're good to go.

Let's just hope once it's all on there's no "ABS" light on the dash once you make it past 2mph. It will be on prior to the wheels calibrating.

Antihero
Thanks, I will give an update when I get the new bbs installed.. Fingers are crossed.
Bret

Update.. We'll I have all the correct parts on the bike now but the computer still shows the abs grayed-out on the dash. I am thinking that the ecu will need to be flashed to enable the abs to function, but I don't know for sure.. Any help from people who have knowledge of the difference between the base and abs computer settings would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Bret

Wow just about everyone I know with a Panigale is removing the ABS not installing it, but they are having the same issue of getting the ABS light off. I believe they have to reflash the ECU.

That would make sense, the computer is either looking for it all the time or not at all. I talked to Wayne from Tuneboy and he thinks he May be able to add an ABS on/off menu item. he will look into it when he gets back from Europe.

Interesting.

I was under the impression that only the base was offered as ABS/No ABS. And that only for 2012. And since then, no options - they all come w/ABS.

yeah, so was I..
in 2012 they offered:
2012 Base
2012 Base ABS
2012 S
2012 S ABS
2012 Tri ABS

+1--ABS was an option on all except the Tri in 2012.

banddlarsen--Good luck getting it all sorted. If your guy does crack into the ECU for the ABS, can you have him check to see if there's an option to turn off the feature that lowers brake pressure to the front brakes when the rear locks? It's nothing but dangerous.

Here's how I think it works:
In ABS 1 (front only), when the bike senses rear wheel lift under maximum braking it adjusts the brake pressure to keep the rear on the ground. It's very smooth and seamless--not like the 'crunch crunch' pulsing of ABS. Bang off a few downshifts and get a little lockup and bam--what feels like no more front brakes (ABS kicks on). The problem with this is kind of obvious, if you're braking at the max, but before lockup, you clearly have a reason to be braking as hard as possible, so the last thing you want is LESS brakes. I thought ABS 1 completely separated the F&R, but there's still a connection.

Antihero
I will pass along your question, The manual states that ABS1 works without caring about what the rear wheel is doing, its not safe for it to function like you have described, sure would be a great fix if he can do it..
thanks

I took the bike to the dealer, they cleared all the codes and the sensors all started working! I now have functioning ABS!

How much did the entire project cost you? I'd like to know the part numbers and pricing

I purchased all the parts used off un-wrecked bikes from eBay, abs pump with lines was $250, complete wire harness was $229, bbs was $150.. But I will be selling my parts on eBay shortly for the guys who want to remove abs from their bikes, so final cost will be next to nothing.. I also purchased a ECM but didn't end up needing it so it will go on ebay also.. The trip to the dealer cost me $105 out the door.