1299s spluttering, rough running!

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Jul 8, 2015
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Hey all,

After a bit of advice!
Was on track last night at my local circuit (Cadwell Park), bike running great!
On the 4th and last session of the evening I was WOT on the main straight and the bike suddenly started spluttering and felt like it had lost most of its power. Thought I had blown the motor! However no smoke, limped back to the pits still running but not liking above 5k rpm, No ecu lights, temp normal.
Had a look over and it sounds a bit rough when revved. No fluid leaks nothing visible etc.
I decided to ride it home, made it back no probs but kept it under 6k rpm as didn't want the revs!
I'm going to get it plugged into diagnostic at local dealer, just wondered if anyone had anything similar happen? Its seems like it could be electrical/sensor?
Any suggestions? :confused:
 
Last edited:
Do you have any piggy back modules? If so, remove them, see if you have the issues

To start narrowing this down, here are some options:

1. With the bike cold, start it, check each cylinder header, be careful if you don't have air temp gauge, you can use your hand, they will get hot quick. If one is getting hot and the other isn't, you now know which cylinder is having the issues. If both are getting hot, that will give us more answers.

2. Check the spark plug, wiring, etc. You could swap coils from one to the other and see if it follows the coil, if one was getting hot but not the other. Since you have it open, you could also change the plugs.

3. Check the air box and filter, make sure it's flowing plenty of air.

4. Check for pinched fuel hoses, if it's dying over 5-6k it could be a pinched hose or not getting enough fuel to make the motor work, or could be a clogged fuel line.

5. As mentioned, could be a faulty injector.

See about the heat in the headers and report back.
 
bike has been collected by ducati assist and is on its way to dealer, will see what they say when they connect to diagnostics!

Thought it could be coil but that would show up an ecu error?!
 
I'm thinking fuel related, since it's triggered by rpms. Sounds to me like the secondary injectors aren't working.
 
Do you have any piggy back modules? If so, remove them, see if you have the issues

To start narrowing this down, here are some options:

1. With the bike cold, start it, check each cylinder header, be careful if you don't have air temp gauge, you can use your hand, they will get hot quick. If one is getting hot and the other isn't, you now know which cylinder is having the issues. If both are getting hot, that will give us more answers.

2. Check the spark plug, wiring, etc. You could swap coils from one to the other and see if it follows the coil, if one was getting hot but not the other. Since you have it open, you could also change the plugs.

3. Check the air box and filter, make sure it's flowing plenty of air.

4. Check for pinched fuel hoses, if it's dying over 5-6k it could be a pinched hose or not getting enough fuel to make the motor work, or could be a clogged fuel line.

5. As mentioned, could be a faulty injector.

See about the heat in the headers and report back.

This
 
now sorted!

Issue was to do with the exhaust valve!
On mine the servo is disconnected and valve is lock wired open (spring is not strong enough to hold open when WOT in 5th/6th). The stop tab on the exhaust that limits the valve to the correct fully open position had failed and broken off. The result was the valve was probably fully closed or lose.
Dealer has removed the valve and nuts holding it in.
 
Glad you got it sorted, and interesting that the valve tabs gave up like that. I am in the process of putting the full Akra exhaust on mine, so I have already pulled the exhaust servo. Nice to know it won't be an issue in the future.
 
now sorted!

Issue was to do with the exhaust valve!
On mine the servo is disconnected and valve is lock wired open (spring is not strong enough to hold open when WOT in 5th/6th). The stop tab on the exhaust that limits the valve to the correct fully open position had failed and broken off. The result was the valve was probably fully closed or lose.
Dealer has removed the valve and nuts holding it in.

Thanks for the feedback! Good info!
 
also on a side note:

i have seen several y-pipes (where i remove the flapper when people send the cans in for the coring/loudification) with leftover welding wire inside the y-pipe close to the valve - when this welding wire breaks off, it can also block the valve movement.
 

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last year I completely removed the actual flapper..(ground down the rivets/screws and took it off) just the shaft is left... There is no restriction in mine...but it still surges at any speed or rpm at or below 14% throttle... Any ideas ? I dropped mine off at the dealer and told them to call me when they get it fixed! I am done screwing with it.. :(

Speedy
 

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