2014 1199R Corse Rake Angle Kit

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Make sure the GPS Transmitter is installed, it's small square module under the
Front section of the screen + like already noted you need the Red DDA Chip
Module, these were all part of the Race Parts Kit. Also note once you have the DDA
Only connect it when you need it as it has full time battery feed to it, ie will drain the battery
 
Make sure the GPS Transmitter is installed, it's small square module under the
Front section of the screen + like already noted you need the Red DDA Chip
Module, these were all part of the Race Parts Kit. Also note once you have the DDA
Only connect it when you need it as it has full time battery feed to it, ie will drain the battery


Ha! I plugged in my old dda lap timer from my old 848 and the lap timer is activated!
9980463c47929cef4c8575c672357aef.jpg

The EVO's lap timer was activated via the high beam switch as well. Not sure if the gps piece will work yet but the lap countdown definitely activates. Note the dda option on the menu is still not accessible. What features are in that menu?
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't 24 degree with -4 mm swing arm puts you at stock 1299? So this is exactly what I will get if I went out and bought a new 1299.

Anyways with damper at 12 clicks, it seems to be a little better mid corner. My issue is that the bike is much easier to change line mid corner now. So if you are not super careful with your steering input the bike will drop down in the middle of the corner with a tighter line. So I am thinking maybe the stock eye to eye for the shock is set too high. (312mm) It could all just be my crappy riding...I haven't rode for over 3 months :p


That is correct, stock 1299 is 24 degree rake and -4mm swingarm pivot. If your bike is unstable mid-turn, that usually means it's riding a little low in the front/high in the rear at that point. But why it's in that condition mid-turn can be due to multiple possibilities. One is that the rear is just too high, and if that's the case it can be because the ride height it too high, or because the shock is not compressing enough, which can be due to either too stiff of a spring, too much preload, or too much compression damping. How do you know which? You have to check static measurements and also look at how the bike is behaving at other points in the turn and deduce your way back to what is most likely the cause. You generally won't be successful at making static changes to the bike's geometry in the pits targeted at fixing one dynamic behavior while riding, without considering all of the other dynamic behaviors. So for example, if you think your bike is falling in mid-turn and it might be because your ride height is too high in the rear, and you lower the rear to compensate, what effect does that have on all of the other behaviors of the bike, particularly on acceleration? Changing the ride height will have a small effect on steering and a big effect on rear end squat during acceleration. So the questions to start asking first are: What is the bike doing on corner exit, is it squatting enough and getting a good bite on the rear tire? And what about on the straights? When you're above 120mph is the bike rock-solid stable or does the front feel too touchy and/or wants to head-shake? If it's unstable all the time, then you can be pretty sure that the static geometry is too high in the rear and/or low in the front. But if it feels good on acceleration and on the straights, then your preferred solution is not likely to be rear ride height. And that's assuming that your static measurements, given spring rates and damping settings are all reasonable to start out with.
 
That is correct, stock 1299 is 24 degree rake and -4mm swingarm pivot. If your bike is unstable mid-turn, that usually means it's riding a little low in the front/high in the rear at that point. But why it's in that condition mid-turn can be due to multiple possibilities. One is that the rear is just too high, and if that's the case it can be because the ride height it too high, or because the shock is not compressing enough, which can be due to either too stiff of a spring, too much preload, or too much compression damping. How do you know which? You have to check static measurements and also look at how the bike is behaving at other points in the turn and deduce your way back to what is most likely the cause. You generally won't be successful at making static changes to the bike's geometry in the pits targeted at fixing one dynamic behavior while riding, without considering all of the other dynamic behaviors. So for example, if you think your bike is falling in mid-turn and it might be because your ride height is too high in the rear, and you lower the rear to compensate, what effect does that have on all of the other behaviors of the bike, particularly on acceleration? Changing the ride height will have a small effect on steering and a big effect on rear end squat during acceleration. So the questions to start asking first are: What is the bike doing on corner exit, is it squatting enough and getting a good bite on the rear tire? And what about on the straights? When you're above 120mph is the bike rock-solid stable or does the front feel too touchy and/or wants to head-shake? If it's unstable all the time, then you can be pretty sure that the static geometry is too high in the rear and/or low in the front. But if it feels good on acceleration and on the straights, then your preferred solution is not likely to be rear ride height. And that's assuming that your static measurements, given spring rates and damping settings are all reasonable to start out with.


Thanks for the reply!

The bike feels solid when going straight and above 120mph. It is just middle corner, it seems to want to change lines more on very tight corners. And finishing off I would say it might be pushing a hair wide when powering out (but could very well be me not looking at the right place...since I am riding roads I have never been on before).

Before the 24 rake and -4mm, I had my bike setup by a local suspension guy then later tweaked by Dave Moss at a track day. My tire wear looks good, smooth. But the rear suspension is a little stiff for my weight (165-170 with gear) on stock spring. The bike was very stable in mid corner, I can still change lines but will take more effort than now. Basically I didn't really have any issues with the bike.

So like you said I don't want to lower the rear unless that is really the issue ...since it will effect rear end squat. Which feels pretty good right now. This is why I am wondering if I need to redo my sag/damping settings or maybe my rear eye-to-eye came too high from the factory. Like if I can make it exactly like a 1299 geometry wise then I can adapt my riding to it. I just don't want to try to adapt to something that is setup wrong.

p.s. I get the feeling the rear is going to step out on me mid corner sometimes.
 
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I'm no pro but when I find my bike moving around mid corner it's usually because I scrubbed off too much speed prior to entering. It feels like it's searching for a line if I'm accurately describing your feeling. Very difficult to judge a bike running wide on corner exit if it's not sure via mid corner where that exit should be. The rear is probably very stiff for you. Are you running the shock in F or P? If F then I would swap to P and check your sag again. That won't necessarily fix your feeling but it will soften up the rear a bit. F doesn't work well for everyone. I find that my rider ergonomics make a big difference on how the bike feels through a corner. If my body position isn't right I put more influence on the bars and that can easily change the result. What setting is your dampener on?
 
Just take a look at Niccolo Canepa YouTube think it's Jerez on a SSTK spec R
the bars are flapping all over the place as Canepa just bosses & Rips it around
like a 2 stroke GP bike wringing it's neck. My 2 year experience on my R this
how they like to be ridden, course many others may disagree ?

http://youtu.be/c8tHJ7SNBtY
 
I'm no pro but when I find my bike moving around mid corner it's usually because I scrubbed off too much speed prior to entering. It feels like it's searching for a line if I'm accurately describing your feeling. Very difficult to judge a bike running wide on corner exit if it's not sure via mid corner where that exit should be. The rear is probably very stiff for you. Are you running the shock in F or P? If F then I would swap to P and check your sag again. That won't necessarily fix your feeling but it will soften up the rear a bit. F doesn't work well for everyone. I find that my rider ergonomics make a big difference on how the bike feels through a corner. If my body position isn't right I put more influence on the bars and that can easily change the result. What setting is your dampener on?

I am running F. I think you are right. I do feel like I am going in too slow and I need more speed it keep the bike up. All new roads to me so I don't want to mess up. :) I kind of get the feeling the rear is going to step out on me mid corner sometimes.

I run sport when the road is bumpy and race when it is smooth.

sport fc 20, fr 16, rc 24, rr 16
race fc 16, fr 12, rc 12, rr 14

And I think i have 38mm front and 31mm rear.
 
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If your rider Sag is at 31mm in the rear then that's good. Even if you backed the preload off all the way to achieve that. Try the suspension link change, retest and go. The traction control will do a lot to keep the bike from stepping out if your responsible with the throttle. I didn't realize that you were feeling this way on the road. Yeah it's definitely not a geometry issue. It's a confidence issue. Take your time and take the corners over and over. Have you been to the track before?
 
If your rider Sag is at 31mm in the rear then that's good. Even if you backed the preload off all the way to achieve that. Try the suspension link change, retest and go. The traction control will do a lot to keep the bike from stepping out if your responsible with the throttle. I didn't realize that you were feeling this way on the road. Yeah it's definitely not a geometry issue. It's a confidence issue. Take your time and take the corners over and over. Have you been to the track before?


Yeah it is a confidence thing for me right now. And yes I have been to the track. So I think it could all just be in my head after the geometry change combined with roads I don't really know.
 
Yeah it is a confidence thing for me right now. And yes I have been to the track. So I think it could all just be in my head after the geometry change combined with roads I don't really know.


I'm sure it is. Also, suspension dialed in for the track can often feel overkill on the street. What responds perfectly at fast speeds due to balanced suspension loads, etc.., may feel twitchy and unforgiving at slow speeds. I took my new 1199R through Malibu the other day and felt the same way. I can drag elbow on the track and yet I get in the tight twisty canyons and I feel like I'm doing a disservice to this beautiful machine!!! Take your time and have fun!
 
I'm sure it is. Also, suspension dialed in for the track can often feel overkill on the street. What responds perfectly at fast speeds due to balanced suspension loads, etc.., may feel twitchy and unforgiving at slow speeds. I took my new 1199R through Malibu the other day and felt the same way. I can drag elbow on the track and yet I get in the tight twisty canyons and I feel like I'm doing a disservice to this beautiful machine!!! Take your time and have fun!

Haha Malibu, thats where I was having issues! Then I went to ACH and it was a lot better on the high speed stuff. I am not from here, so all those roads are very new to me. I just have my bike in socal right now so I can avoid raining cold Vancouver, Canada winter. Thanks a lot for your help!
 
Haha Malibu, thats where I was having issues! Then I went to ACH and it was a lot better on the high speed stuff. I am not from here, so all those roads are very new to me. I just have my bike in socal right now so I can avoid raining cold Vancouver, Canada winter. Thanks a lot for your help!


Bring her out to chuckwalla valley raceway on Friday March 4th for Ducati day!!!
 
Part # on the 24 kit is 756.3.0361A. You can see through the top triple to verify.
 
Hmm, how do I see through the top triple? Is it stamped on the top?

There are cut outs at 12/3/6/9 o'clock positions for the 24 degree kit.
The 24.5 doesn't have a cut out at 9 o'clock.

Thats the simplest way to tell if you have 24 or 24.5. Look for the 9 o'clock cut out. I would take a photo of my bike...but I left socal already. Or you can a photo and I can verify if it is.
 
Also is has to be Installed correctly otherwise you could end up with 25*
If backwards. Offset in the bearing bores is only approx 1mm off center but
Front wheel will move backwards around 15mm, there is an " L " stamped
but you could easily but 1 in correctly and the other backwards as they have
Several key slots, hence why I measured with vernier calliper the confirm
 
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