2014 1199R Corse Rake Angle Kit

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Yes you have the gps lap timer. You have to scroll through menu options to activate it. This needs to be done after every time the bike is turned back on. If you received the Dda dongle for data logging that gets plugged in the the connector in the tail section. If the Dda is left connected it WILL drain your battery, disconnect at the end of every day. Hope that helps. Oh and you activate the lap timer with the high beam flasher/ it's the one you can hit w your index finger.


Yeah I see the lap timer feature but it doesn't allow me to turn it on in the settings menu. Or is is just automatically working and when I go to the track I just hit the high beam? The red dda device didn't come with the bike. [emoji20]
 
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Yeah I see the lap timer feature but it doesn't allow me to turn it on in the settings menu. Or is is just automatically working and when I go to the track I just hit the high beam? The red dda device didn't come with the bike. [emoji20]

Is your dash in track mode?

After you hit the high beam flasher you should see it running...
 
If you don't have the red stick? You cannot activate the gps feature in the dash. The lap timer will still work, but the dad part won't.
 
Is your dash in track mode?



After you hit the high beam flasher you should see it running...


Yeah even when I put it in track it looks like this
c1b25ed7ed463e30459921c419b48845.jpg


I suppose I'll have to stay on the lookout for one of those dda modules. Don't really want to spring for the whole setup again.
 
thats the menu not race mode.. you can change from Wet, Sport, Race mode on the left button.. Set it into race mode then hit the high beam flasher and it runs on its own. It will time you but not store it from stock.. when you are in race mode and pass the start/finish line hit the high beam flasher and it starts running
 
Oh so the menu doesn't need to be in track mode, the bike needs to be in race mode? So basically if I wanted to use the bike in sport at the track then the gps isn't available?
 
Oh so the menu doesn't need to be in track mode, the bike needs to be in race mode? So basically if I wanted to use the bike in sport at the track then the gps isn't available?

You can change each mode's display to track. So you can have gps in wet too.
 
So I got the 24 kit installed and lowered the rear to -4mm. Apparently my front is 198mm and rear 312mm shock. (not the most accurate measurements...since the shop didn't remove shock).

It steers much faster now. Just drops in. It seems a little less stable mid corner... almost crossed the centre line a few times. I changed the steering damper from 8 clicks to 10. I think that helped a little. Maybe I just need more seat time...or I will have to lower my rear a little.
 
I have 24 Rake & -4 SA turns very fast turn in + can make mid corner corrections,
Very lively front end, I run minimal steering damper settings prefer the fluttery
Steering feed back over the dead feel with the damper increased.
Very even tread / tire wear shear pattern indicating good rebound dampening
control
 
I have 24 Rake & -4 SA turns very fast turn in + can make mid corner corrections,
Very lively front end, I run minimal steering damper settings prefer the fluttery
Steering feed back over the dead feel with the damper increased.
Very even tread / tire wear shear pattern indicating good rebound dampening
control

I run the same . You described it the same as how I feel it .
 
I'm curious as to how the bike will handle with just the rake angle kit and no swing arm pivot change. Or is it mandatory to set the pivot at -4?
 
Like I said earlier, the bigger change is the -4 pivot. Jarel suggested that be done if you had to choose between one of the other. Should be done together to get the desired effect.
 
Yes, and stop changing chassis/suspension settings on your bike because you read on the internet that someone else did it. Figure out what YOUR bike is doing that YOU don't like, and then research how to solve that specific problem. Don't try to solve problems that you don't actually have! Not everyone needs a steeper rake or lower swingarm pivot position, it depends on how YOU ride your bike. Leon is racing for championships, that's a way different setup requirement than hitting the canyon roads on the weekend. You can do WAY more harm than good by just randomly changing chassis settings based upon what someone else has done. Take the time to figure out how your bike actually feels to YOU and what parts you like and what you don't like, and then solve the problems while verifying that you still have the positive aspects correct. Once you "get it" you'll thank me, especially the first time you actually perceive what the bike is doing, you make a change to make it better, and it actually works how you thought it would. You're the zen master of your bike setup at that point!

As a general guideline, if you don't like the way the bike exits a corner, work on the swingarm/shock settings, if you don't like the way it turns in, work on the fork/rake settings, and if you don't like mid-corner stability or ability to hold a line, work on chassis balance front/rear.
 
Oh so the menu doesn't need to be in track mode, the bike needs to be in race mode? So basically if I wanted to use the bike in sport at the track then the gps isn't available?

Correct bike in race mode(menu doesnt matter).. The GPS will not work in any mode other than race mode..
 
Correct bike in race mode(menu doesnt matter).. The GPS will not work in any mode other than race mode..


Ok so that's a bummer as mine doesn't activate. It must need that red dda plugged in. I'll have to keep an eye out for one or call the dealer.
 
Ok so that's a bummer as mine doesn't activate. It must need that red dda plugged in. I'll have to keep an eye out for one or call the dealer.

Yes, as ljuice pointed out you need the black gps module and the red dda plug..
 
Yes, and stop changing chassis/suspension settings on your bike because you read on the internet that someone else did it. Figure out what YOUR bike is doing that YOU don't like, and then research how to solve that specific problem. Don't try to solve problems that you don't actually have! Not everyone needs a steeper rake or lower swingarm pivot position, it depends on how YOU ride your bike. Leon is racing for championships, that's a way different setup requirement than hitting the canyon roads on the weekend. You can do WAY more harm than good by just randomly changing chassis settings based upon what someone else has done. Take the time to figure out how your bike actually feels to YOU and what parts you like and what you don't like, and then solve the problems while verifying that you still have the positive aspects correct. Once you "get it" you'll thank me, especially the first time you actually perceive what the bike is doing, you make a change to make it better, and it actually works how you thought it would. You're the zen master of your bike setup at that point!

As a general guideline, if you don't like the way the bike exits a corner, work on the swingarm/shock settings, if you don't like the way it turns in, work on the fork/rake settings, and if you don't like mid-corner stability or ability to hold a line, work on chassis balance front/rear.


Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't 24 degree with -4 mm swing arm puts you at stock 1299? So this is exactly what I will get if I went out and bought a new 1299.

Anyways with damper at 12 clicks, it seems to be a little better mid corner. My issue is that the bike is much easier to change line mid corner now. So if you are not super careful with your steering input the bike will drop down in the middle of the corner with a tighter line. So I am thinking maybe the stock eye to eye for the shock is set too high. (312mm) It could all just be my crappy riding...I haven't rode for over 3 months :p
 
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