7500 mile/12,000 km Servicing

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Has anyone got a standard labour guide for this bike?

The minor service requires:
Remove and replace fairings upper and lower (re torque retainers) 0.5 hours
Oil and filter/run engine/check level and adjust as necessary 0.5 hours
Air filter remove/clean/replace including vacuum clean air box 0.5 hours
Re torque front and rear axles/drive/brakes 0.5 hours
Re torque all other fasteners 0.5 hours
Check all safety devices/test ride/clean bike/check errors/reset service interval 0.5 hours

That's 3 hours if the job's done properly and all goes well.
Parts = 4L Shell 50w Synthetic Oil/filter/O'Rings/sump washer @ trade us$107

Notes:
1. According to published manufacturer information from Shell, Mobil etc NO oil is fully synthetic as it was too expensive to produce with the required qualities. I don't care what it is labelled as long as it works...and it seems to do the job well!
2. Dealers need to make profit on parts to cover labour/carrier costs on parts orders.
3. If dealers don't make a profit...they go broke and aren't there when you need them.
 
Notes:
1. According to published manufacturer information from Shell, Mobil etc NO oil is fully synthetic as it was too expensive to produce with the required qualities. I don't care what it is labelled as long as it works...and it seems to do the job well!

You're quite right.
If the oil is working for you(however you deem to define "working") then it's all good if does indeed seem to do the job well.
The definition of "synthetic" varies greatly when it comes to the marketing blurb. But it all comes down to where you are in the world as the variation stems from what market the oil is being sold into.

For example.
In the USA It's wide open to interpretation.
I think it's just as fuzzy here in OZ.
In Europe(especially Germany) it's a very tightly controlled definition, with small allowances being made out of necessity for the smaller percentages required for the basestocks that are simply used as the carriers for the additive pack, which in the main is outsourced from a specialty manufacturer regardless of what brand of oil is labelled on the bottle.

It's interesting you mention both Shell and Mobil.
They are another 2 of the major brands, which are moving away from formulations in the last few years, which were originally and widely deemed to be true "Full Synthetic" oil formulations.
As a result they are not quite as good as they were.
But in all probability they are quite adequate and fit for purpose, regardless of the shift in broader terms to the use of lower quality basestocks.

We will never really know:(

It's all driven by profits:(

There are still true Full Synthetic oils available, but they are certainly getting fewer in number.

What I hate the most about it all, is that they are still charging a premium for the oil when it's performance is likely to not be as good as it originally was.
Somebody is taking the piss at the retail level with the prices they are charging for it:mad:
 
Hit the 7500 mark and took my bike into GP Bikes in Whitby, just outside of Ontario Canada. The majority of what's performed involves checking fluid levels and re-torquing bolts. None-the-less, I figured the dealer would charge an outrageous amount for a small amount of work, but not so! Total OTD was $258, which included oil and filter and 1 hour of labor. Not bad!

IMG_1800.jpg


What IS bad is when I checked my oil this morning it's high. As in, the oil level is at the lower mark when the bike is on its side stand and over the top of the sight glass before the bike is upright! This is the second time that's happened. The first time was during the 600 mile service....and now again at 7500 (changed the oil out in MN at 5,000, but we filled it properly).

List of services performed:
Read the error memory with DDS 2.0 and check whether any
update is available for control unit software version
Check whether there are technical updates and recall campaigns
Change engine oil and filter
Clean the air filter
Check the proper tightening of the clutch cover and clutch
protection cover bolts
Check brake and clutch fluid level
Check brake pads. Replace if necessary
Check the proper tightening of brake caliper bolts and brake disk
carrier bolts
Check front and rear wheel nuts tightening
Check the proper tightening of secondary drive front and rear
sprocket nuts
Check chain sliders for wear
Check the drive chain tension and lubrication
Visually check the front fork and rear shock absorber seals
Check the proper tightening of the frame-to-engine fasteners
Check the freedom of movement and tightening of the side stand
Visually check the fuel lines
Check rubbing points, clearance, freedom of movement and
routing of the flexible cables and electric wiring
Lubricate the levers at the handlebar and pedal controls
Check coolant level
Check electric fan operation
Check tire pressure and wear
Check the battery charge level
Check idling
Check the operation of all electric safety devices (side stand
sensor, front and rear brake switches, engine kill switch, gear/
neutral sensor)
Check the indicators and lighting
Reset the Service indication through the DDS 2.0
Road test of the motorcycle, testing the safety devices (ex. ABS
and DTC)
Cleaning the motorcycle


That list of tasks looks like it's taken directly off the w/shop checklist/work sheet.

You omitted the last item on the list:(

Fill out that the service was performed in on-board documentation (Service Booklet):)
 
i was quoted 3 hours at different rates from 99 an hour to 129 an hour. ill do it myself thanks
 

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