$99 Rearsets??? Can they really be that bad?

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double0 said:
5438d1371268511-double0s-white-panigale-10.jpg
I can vouch for that stupid company writing on the levers. I also ordered my shorties (non-adjustable) from same site Mark mentioned. You can see it on the top of my levers in the picture above. I did not know that's how they would ship out nor did I know removing the company name was even an option. It is a pretty small font n most can't tell but still. I've grown to live with it. Nothing major unless you're anal like that.
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VERY nice!

I can't tell but if you got a matching blue rim stripe and blue rearsets, the bike would REALLY POP!
 
I think the ebay versions are more or less the same. I bought a set like that a year ago but found out that the manufacturer had drilled the wrong thread for the brakeswitch. Also the levers would block when tightened to much. The inner race of the bearing were not a good fit. I incorporated all the improvements in my own sets. But to be honest if you have the possibility to a lath you good do a good deal. Although I wouldn't buy the black ones they are all prone to discoloring within 1 year.
I also have suspicion if the product is said to be made of 7000 series aluminum. I think they all use 6061. Which is fine anyway. But use lots of locktite on the 1199. Everything gets loose on this bike anyway.
 
Also keep in mind the ebay ones are really 150 after shipping with possible customs complications and fees not included. In addition they didn't seem to know the answer to a simple question I asked one of the vendors.
 
Mr. Hqracing, sir. A little feedback: the left heelplate is rather useless as it is too small, particularly if you have a habit of riding with the ball of your foot on the peg like me.
My heel tend to rest on the F-P rear shock mount part as a result.

Perhaps it needs redesigning to be about 3-4 cm higher. Not very beautiful perhaps, but definitely more functional. As an option?

The right one is fine. But 1-2 cm higher wouldn't hurt.

And an option to raise the pegs by another 1-2 cm would be super awesome too if possible. Sato (on CBR600RR) goes that high (although not sure on panigale).
 
Mitchlguzin said:
VERY nice!

I can't tell but if you got a matching blue rim stripe and blue rearsets, the bike would REALLY POP!
Click to expand...

No blue stripe. I currently have white stripe on my base wheels. My aftermarket rearsets are in the process of getting anodized blue. My OZ Wheels will be blue as well with either a white rim tape or no rim tape. I'm playing with a couple of different ideas and will come to a conclusion this week n hopefully be done by end of next week...ideally.
 
Marmoot said:
Mr. Hqracing, sir. A little feedback: the left heelplate is rather useless as it is too small, particularly if you have a habit of riding with the ball of your foot on the peg like me.
My heel tend to rest on the F-P rear shock mount part as a result.

Perhaps it needs redesigning to be about 3-4 cm higher. Not very beautiful perhaps, but definitely more functional. As an option?

The right one is fine. But 1-2 cm higher wouldn't hurt.

And an option to raise the pegs by another 1-2 cm would be super awesome too if possible. Sato (on CBR600RR) goes that high (although not sure on panigale).
Click to expand...

Hi, thanx for the feedback. I'll look into it. Maybe an optional carbon heel plate wouldn't be a bad idea....Although I have to remember that the sets I sell are basically for racing and a little less for cosmetic appearances.
 
mark419ny said:
i have the extendable ones double O and i happen to catch it when i was designing them. it would drive me nuts. yes you can have them made without it there. fyi there are other companies out there selling the same exact levers. as you can see you can put your own logo on it instead of adjustable levers. for example bestem sells these called motozen levers. guess what they same exact thing as adjustable levers exept they say motzen lol

i have said it to you before but i will say it again. best looking panigale i have seen period. white and blue the way you have it. my 2 favorite colors. i was going to get a white one to do the same thing but am opting for the hp4. damn you double o lol.
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Hey...You could be the only one on the east coast with a similar setup lol. Since you're not on the west coast, I'm ok with it haha

As always, appreciate the compliment. Still a work in progress but you already know what I'm doing to the bike before it's finally finished.
 
HqRacing said:
Hi, thanx for the feedback. I'll look into it. Maybe an optional carbon heel plate wouldn't be a bad idea....Although I have to remember that the sets I sell are basically for racing and a little less for cosmetic appearances.
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Yes, yes sir. For racing/track. Resting the left heel/sole on the suspension mount during race cannot be good, no :)

Bigger heel plates may not look good, but if it is functional it would be great for us active riders. Hence perhaps make them as optional.
 
HqRacing said:
I'll be in LAX end of this week. I could take some rear sets with me price would be $290 including shipping and paypal transfer. If any of you is interested let me know before the 16th.
See them here as well:

w.hqracing.nl/webwinkel/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=67_93&sort=20a&language=en
Click to expand...

Nice! I'll need some so this will be an option.
 
As with anything, cheap aftermarket parts will be shown up very quickly. Be it on a PC, car or motorcycle. No point spending $20K plus and not willing to spend a few hundred on quality and highly recommended rearsets. Seriously doubt the $99 dollar ones are as good as the factory. So why buy them?
 
sqd8r said:
As with anything, cheap aftermarket parts will be shown up very quickly. Be it on a PC, car or motorcycle. No point spending $20K plus and not willing to spend a few hundred on quality and highly recommended rearsets. Seriously doubt the $99 dollar ones are as good as the factory. So why buy them?
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A nice quality set of machined pegs cost $50 so for the extra $45-50, it only makes sense to test out adjustable rearsets.

Assuming the shift quality is fine and the metal is strong enough to support the weight of a 195lb rider, and one would use enough Locktite to keep the screws in place, it's a meager investment to improve your foot position and grip on such a beast.

I only brought up this topic because I see A LOT of guys on this forum that have replaced the pegs with something gripy(er) and for an extra $50, they may be worth looking into...
 
I used the Chinese ones on my 1098R for racing purposes. First thing I did was changing the bolts, as they hex was round in no time. Second thing i had to do, was making a new shift lever from 7075 aluminium, because they got bent after one session (brake side was ok). Third thing was drilling a hole thru the pegs and do some milling on the bottom part of the pegs, to that they would break when falling and not the mounting on the frame! Fourth thing I did was sharpening the edges of the pegs, so the foot does not slide off. All in all they were not bad.

For the Panigale I use the Lightech sets and they work perfectly for me without doing anything.
 
Update on mine 2 weeks on:
Haven't fallen apart yet, still like when new.
Brakelight switch is now using pressure-sensitive banjo, spliced onto the original switch cables.
Shift quality is good, for those that asked. But I found that the shifter's toe part (being metal with ribs) hurt a bit when using dress shoes (yes i am guilty of doing my 20minute city commute in dress shoes), unlike the original that is rubber-coated. I need to figure out how to condomise this with rubber sleeve somehow.
In spirited canyon riding (or backroads, as we call it here) it is superb.
One of the black rubber cap at the end of the pegs is missing (probably kicked by my boots soles during the weekend), but it actually looks nice hollow without the cap, so I might take the other cap off too.
In the process of buying high tensile bolts to replace those that mount the pegs, to ensure proper weight-bearing strength. I don't trust single weight-bearing bolt made in china. Those are $10-ish extra cost.
 
Marmoot said:
Update on mine 2 weeks on:
But I found that the shifter's toe part (being metal with ribs) hurt a bit when using dress shoes (yes i am guilty of doing my 20minute city commute in dress shoes), unlike the original that is rubber-coated. I need to figure out how to condomise this with rubber sleeve somehow.
Click to expand...

Here you go:
RYD-RSS-_sw3_Red

Product Description
  • Protect your shoes from shifter damage, no more ugly black marks on your shoes or boots.
  • Simply slip over shifter, fits most sport bike/street/dirt & ATV shifters.
  • Flexible, natural rubber material, fits shifters up to 3/4" wide and 2" long.
Dirt Bike Ryder Clips Rubber Shift Sock | MotoSport

Good on you for replacing the parts that need replacing, such as the load-bearing bolts. I'm sure these will work great for you. If I hadn't been able to get my Rizoma RRC rearsets for $250, I would be doing the exact same thing.
 
I got my rearset from China and at the first attempt to put them on it was a failure. The shaft that push the brake pump in not in line, it's some slack toward the bike so when you brake the shaft doesn't move in line. Other thing on the gear side but I guess it's my fault, I couldn't get the shaft to change length, it's kind of stuck after losing all the nuts. The new rearset needs some adjustment, it's too long now.

Did anyone has the same issues?

Overall the quality is good, the look nice on the bike and the position is substantial better then OEM.


y8u3upa6.jpg
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Mine has 1mm offset on the brake plunger too, but it did not create any issues in movements. I can use the rear brake just fine.
That's the only issue, apart from the brake sensor thread (changing my rear brake sensor to pressure-type using sensor-equipped banjo bolt solved this issue tidily).

2 months on and it is still like new. Feeling a lot better after replacing the unknown quality footpeg bolts with 12.9 steel grade bolts.

I blue loctited the hell out of them so there has not been a loose bolt.

Lost the black plastic caps on the footpegs within a few days though (probably my boots accidentally kicked them off).

Still finding it need to be about an inch higher for my liking. My brother tried it on the track yesterday and passed on the same comment. Unfortunately the height seem standard as with the other makers, so I may have to custom-make a higher mounting myself.

PS. Thanks Jeff, that shifter rubber condom works very well!
 
Marmoot said:
Mine has 1mm offset on the brake plunger too, but it did not create any issues in movements. I can use the rear brake just fine.
That's the only issue, apart from the brake sensor thread (changing my rear brake sensor to pressure-type using sensor-equipped banjo bolt solved this issue tidily).

2 months on and it is still like new. Feeling a lot better after replacing the unknown quality footpeg bolts with 12.9 steel grade bolts.

I blue loctited the hell out of them so there has not been a loose bolt.

Lost the black plastic caps on the footpegs within a few days though (probably my boots accidentally kicked them off).

Still finding it need to be about an inch higher for my liking. My brother tried it on the track yesterday and passed on the same comment. Unfortunately the height seem standard as with the other makers, so I may have to custom-make a higher mounting myself.

PS. Thanks Jeff, that shifter rubber condom works very well!
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll give another shot but I need to figure out why the gear shaft is stuck. Mine for some reason needs to be pushed slight back.

Can you please take a pick of the brake and the gear shaft so I can see what's wrong with mine?


Thanks
 
Some pictures on my blog
http://1199s.wordpress.com/2014/03/09/99-panigale-rearset-from-china/

Also, adjustment to the gearshifter is done by changing the length of the shifter link (the one to the gearbox; the one with the quickshifter sensor on it). Loosen the bolt near the eyelet that connects to the rearset's shifter assembly, then turn the eyelet to change the length. After that, connect the eyelet to the shifter.
If I recall correctly, the ratio is around 1 turn per 2mm change in gearshifter's up/down position.
 
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