ABS Delete problem on a 2016 1299

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I removed the front brake lines from the ABS unit and plugged the holes with a kit from Ducati Omaha ( lines and plugs) and ran direct from the master cylinder lines to the calipers I left the rear lines intact and functioning or so I thought. I'm getting the ABS light on the dash. I have done this very same mod to a 2018 and a 2019 959 and it did not trigger the light and maintained a functioning rear only ABS. I have since double checked the gap on the pickup wire and ring off the wheels and they are in spec. The bike has under 1000 miles on it btw bought it in like new condition. When I had the 600 mile service my dealer said the system read a malfunctioning front wheel pickup, since I had access to my 959 I swapped a known functioning wire confirmed the gap again and within 15 miles the light came on again.
Any thoughts??
 
Oke so you removed ABS sensor from 959 and put on the 1299, correct? ABS light was off for 15 minutes? I would try to unplug the sensor spray some contact spray into the plugs and plug it back in again.
 
Also would i try to remove the plug u put in abs module, fill with brake fluid and put the plug back.
 
I have also confirmed that the rear pickup is properly connected This bike was bone stock before I touched it.
 
There is nothing mechanically you did to cause the light to come on so as long as you plugged all 4 ports your ok. The ABS connector from the loom to the pump is most likely it just unplug it and plug it in once or twice then go ride the bike light should go away.
 
There is nothing mechanically you did to cause the light to come on so as long as you plugged all 4 ports your ok. The ABS connector from the loom to the pump is most likely it just unplug it and plug it in once or twice then go ride the bike light should go away.

I only plugged the front ports of the unit and maintained the rear abs function which I prefer and on the previous two 959's this worked fine for me on the past two bikes. Something is up with this 1299 though.
Tried the following Recalibrate tire size, tried other abs levels through dash board, swapped front pick up line. re measured the gap at the wheels sending unit at 1.55 mm manual states 1.3 - 1.9, Removed and re connected
the main harness to the abs unit, brakes function and brake lights function also checked the fuses which are all good. Front brakes have been bleed with new fresh fluid level feels solid bike stops well, rear brakes function but
but no abs.
 
How much is the gap at the rear? Also 1,55 or less?
Funny the rear gap was 2.5mm which I seset last night to 1.6mm will try a test later today with any luck. Thanks
BTW Attached is taken from the manual and the first part makes some sense but the portion on the bottom is confusing me.
Can anyone make sense of this. They state 1.3 to 1.9 then say 1.3 should not pass ? I take that to mean 1.29 should not pass in any case I made sure to stay larger than 1.3.
Also checking at 3 points makes sense but .2 and .5 mm gauges ?? not to exceed 3mm ??

Adjusting the AIR-GAP of phonic wheel sensor

(For front as well as rear sensor) In each case of maintenance that foresees:

- replacing or refitting the wheel;

- replacing or refitting phonic wheel (5) or (6);

- replacing or refitting the brake discs;

- replacing or refitting the speed sensor (1) or (2);

- (front) replacing or refitting the sensor holder bracket;

- (rear) replacing or refitting of the calliper holder plate.

It is necessary to check the air-gap between the speed sensor and the phonic wheel, once the components are

refitted.

There must be a gap between ABS sensor (D) and phonic wheel (E) of 1.3 mm to 1.9 mm. To check it, use two

feeler gauges (F)

of 1.3 mm and 1.9 mm. If the Airgap is correct, the 1.3 mm feeler gauge must not pass.

Note

Perform the test in three points of the phonic wheel, at a distance of 120° one from the other.

To do this, use two feeler gauges (8) of 0.2 mm and 0.5 m.

Important

The sum of the feeler gauge must never exceed 3 mm.
 
So I would just remove the rear also and leave the abs pump in tacted. Also turn off the abs lights on the dash also. I did this on my 1299 and no problems
 
So I would just remove the rear also and leave the abs pump in tacted. Also turn off the abs lights on the dash also. I did this on my 1299 and no problems
Kinda liked having the rear intact
2 questions if you bypass the rear why have the pump at all?
And how do you turn off the light?
 
ABS delete no pump, no extra junk and everything works as it should.
 

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Your ABS light on the dash will always be there. The ABS pump electronics have to be there its all connected to the CAN line for quickshifter, engine brake, wheelie and traction control.
 
Your ABS light on the dash will always be there. The ABS pump electronics have to be there its all connected to the CAN line for quickshifter, engine brake, wheelie and traction control.
Regarding the light the reason I left the unit in place with the rear lines intact and the abs settings on 1 through 3 was to avoid having the light on.
In my case with the abs unit in place and the rear lines connected and the abs on setting 2, I'm still getting the light ??
 
Yeqh if you disconnect one or all 4 ports on the pump the dash will indicate a problem on the abs. Best thing to do is plug all 4 ports, remove all the brake lines front/rear and live with the light it does no harm. Once you do all that put direct lines from masters to calipers now you have a solid system.
 

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